Cold Start Drivability/ Hesitation and backfire

chris89

chris89

New Member
May 31, 2005
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Columbia, MO
when my car is warming up there's Absolutely NO power, Like it hesitates so much i have to Nail it just to barely go anywhere... the car isn't throwing any codes but i did remove my EGR, not sure if it applies, But i do Plain on putting my egr back on because my car backfires all the time..... Like loud pops out the exhaust... I think my egr is causing it.
 
BlackDynamite

BlackDynamite

KTHXBIA
Feb 24, 2007
714
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Well...i know that when we were working on my friends 240, the MAF sensor was broken so it ran like shite...that MIght be a problem....But for the popping, have you checked your timing? i dunno if a removed egr would cause that though....also do you still have a Catalytic Converter?...cause that might also cause a popping sound....dunno though:]
 
chris89

chris89

New Member
May 31, 2005
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Ignition timing is Right On. AFM is working perfectly, the car is not throwing any codes. The car doesn't have a Cat. I've heard that removing the egr system will cause some weird Ignition problems etc...
 
BlackDynamite

BlackDynamite

KTHXBIA
Feb 24, 2007
714
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Hrmmm...i dunno about the running part.....the popping sounds like the cat....how many miles on the engine?...could check the injectors if it has a lot of miles...or maybe the fuel pump or filter....maybe run a top end cleaner....
 
johnathan1

johnathan1

Supra =
Aug 19, 2005
5,056
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Downey, California, United States
My car has a similar problem...when it's cold, I usually just drive it really easily, like under 2k RPMs, no boost...but recently, I had to go into boost and accelerate to pull out onto the main road when the engine was still cold, and as soon as it hit boost, it bogged down like CRAZY...NO power.

But once the car is warm, it runs very smooth and super strong...I get an o2 sensor code when driving on the freeway sometimes (#21) think it's related?
 
chris89

chris89

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May 31, 2005
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well, I'm getting No codes, and it does the eact same thing, Absolutely no power while warming up, after it warms up, it runs great. Also i've noticed my coolant light coming On and Off several times during warm up, but after it's warmed up it Goes away?
 
Nick M

Nick M

Black Rifles Matter
Sep 9, 2005
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You are low on coolant, that is why the light comes on. The resevoir fills up as the heat in the engine expands the coolant.

A compression check wouldn't hurt based on your symptoms. An easier way is to check vacuum with a guage while it is cold and then warm. You don't have to pull the intake and plugs to check vacuum.
 
chris89

chris89

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May 31, 2005
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Columbia, MO
OK, i have no vaccum leaks, it seems like it's eating up coolant......? my low coolant light comes on after a few days of driving....? Also this is almost getting worst, Cold Drivability Sucks ass! pisses me off so much, I have to NAIL it and it seems like it bogs down like no other, It does the same when it's warmed up but way better, and more drivable... It seems like i have to give it alot of gas and it seems like it's bogging down... It's making go crazy, This car will never Fu*king run right!! I looked into it and i could have an incorrectly adjusted TPS, and it's throwing off my ISCV and ECU... my ignition timing is DEAD ON 10* BTDC and both Cams are PERFECTLY aligned to 0... Any thoughts from someone who really knows what they're talking about and can give a straight answer?
 
chris89

chris89

New Member
May 31, 2005
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Columbia, MO
I just bought and installed a Brand new "Water Temp Sensor" for EFI. The cold idle is still the same, But my cold drivability is WAY WAY better, and the car is alot faster and more responsive. What would be the next thing to replace or check? ISCV?
 
johnathan1

johnathan1

Supra =
Aug 19, 2005
5,056
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36
Downey, California, United States
Well, in my experience, (not sure if it's the way it was "designed" to be) the engine will run at about 1200-1300RPM right after cold starting it...it usually starts to go down to the normal range after about a minute or so...

And a good test for your ISC valve is to let your car warm up, until the idle stabilizes, and turn the AC on, (if it is working properly) and the idle should jump up to around 900-1000...then it should go back down to 650 when you turn it off.
 
jetjock

jetjock

creepy-ass cracka
Jul 11, 2005
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The coolant temp controls both warm up enrichment and idle speed. That's why I asked what the idle was and suggest you replace the coolant sensor. Now it seems you have a further ISC system problem. Fwiw that can't involve the cold start injector time switch. If you're having a cold start problem that's a different story and the CSI switch could be at fault. It'd have to be very cold though, colder than it is in Walnut Creek.

Oh wait, you're not the same Chris. Never mind...
 
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