Code 14, starts and dies

[lucifixion]

As it sits right now, the car will start for a couple seconds and runs perfectly and then cuts right out. I can repeat this over and over. Check the codes and 14 comes back everytime I try something.

First I checked the coils and they each measure .4 ohms, each connector has 12 volts at terminal one and infinite resistance between each coil and ground. (checked with a fluke dmm so I think these reading are accurate)

Next, I checked the igniter and verified continuity in the wires up to the coil pack. Rather than test the igniter fully, I borrowed a known working one with no luck. I reinstalled mine and ran a ground wire from the case to the body ground.

Next I checked the cps. All measurements were ~160ohms. I checked these readings at the ecu and they were identical. I checked the clearances per the TSRM and they all checked good as well. I heard so many talk about the connector so I went ahead and rewired the cps.

I have had the car since January and have driven it approximately 200 miles. I was trying to find a coolant leak and after replacing a missing clamp, I started the car and let it run for 15-20 minutes. I shut it off and went in for the night. I came out 2 days later and it wouldn't start and threw code 14.

Since I have gotten it, the only other code I have got was 11. After I got this code, I went home and noticed that the previous owner had just shoved one of the ground wires into a slot in the fender. I moved it to a bolt and thought that fixed it. During one of my attempts at fixing this problem, code 11 did come up once. I am not sure if this was a fluke or if it is related but the code hasn't came back.

As for grounds I have two seperate ring terminals bolted under the intake manifold with about 7 wires going to them. Does this sound like the correct number?

This problem is driving me crazy and I don't know what to check next. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Burntz]

Is the fuel pump working? When mine went out in my grand am, it would start for a second or 2, and die. It did that over and over and over.

Turn the key and have someone listening at the tank to see if they hear it hum

 

[Doward]

Yeah, and it's a PITA to check the fuel pressure on our car - unless you get an adjustable FPR

If you try to give it gas, does it rev, or just die?

 

[Finnon]

theres a fuel pump mod you could try, something to do with 9 volt and 12 volt switching or something but you would need to search for the relevant threads. also if you still have the stock alarm dissconect it completely as i had a simmilar fault and it was dirty relays inside the alarm unit

 

[lucifixion]

I can rev it just fine. But even with holding it at say 3000 rpm's, it still cuts out after a couple seconds. I know from other threads that the ECU will stop fuel injection after not recieving the IGf signal from the igniter so many times in a row. That is the code 14. I just can't figure out why I wouldn't be getting the signal when the car seems to run fine.

 

[Doward]

I think you're on the right track - sounds like there is something going on with the TCCS cutting the fuel injection. Does it stumble when it dies, or just shuts off?

 

[lucifixion]

It doesn't stumble. When I start it, it revs up to about 1500 rpm's and sits there for a second or so. Then the CEL comes on and the engine dies much like the key was turned off.

I checked grounds E1 E01 and E02 at the ECU connectors and they are grounded.

 

[Doward]

Pagin' JJ

If you're getting a code 14, that means IGf isn't reaching the TCCS. Check the wiring again. I had a hell of a time, until I realized the cps wire was loose in its socket.

 

[jetjock]

You've got it covered Doward. Nothing more I can add other than to say there's no way the fuel pump/alarm theories could cause a 14. Entertaining though....

 

[lucifixion]

Next time I get a chance, I will try and check the IGf signal wire. I have removed the original connector for the cps and rewired it from inside the cps. I also removed all of the brittle wire after the connector so I don't think that is my problem. I probably can't verify the signal (while cranking) with a DMM though can I?

If a cps wire was loose, wouldn't the car miss or does it just depend on how loose it is and what wire?

Also does anyone know if the individual sensors inside the cps can be taken apart to run new wire all the way into them? I just cut the wire close to each and ran new from there on, but if I can I will take each sensor out and apart and solder new wire onto them.