Burnt up my RPS clutch in 4mo.

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SupraB

Need 4 speed mods!
Jul 24, 2006
71
0
0
Spokane WA
I have basically a stock car, I needed a clutch so I bought an RPS PP with an RPS 6puck disc whjich I was told was a Mild Race clutch. It didn't feel right ever since I put it in and then after 4 mo. it started slipping on shifts, so I took it to the shop and they tore it all apart and guess what? The pressure plate and the Disc were all glazed over from slipping. Im being told that they need to be replaced, so im thinking about just going back to stock clutch, I doubt Ill be taking the car past 300 hp for a few years and I would like to retain the stock drivability, does this sound like a good move? My only current mods are intake partial exhaust, and HKS SSQV.
Also they said that they recommend going back to my stock flywheel, when I did the clutch I did a Fidanza aluminum flywheel, as it to was damaged, do you guys think I should replace the facing material or just go back to stock flywheel? The tech says he doesnt like alum. flywheels cuz it ruins the balancing of the motor.

Thanks gang.
Brendan
 
edi

edi

New Member
May 17, 2006
198
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87116
www.pxracing.com
maybe your clutch pedal was off adjustment. I've seen 6puck clutches last a real long time and 4 months way short, something must have gone wrong. do you have pics of the flywheel and clutch assembly? you may be able to save the fly wheel by resurfacing it.
 
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Supra

New Member
May 11, 2005
304
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49
Rockford, IL
Based on my expirience with three RPS clutches (separate cars), the RPS needs to be properly broken in. If you baby it for the full 400 miles, it will seat and hold incredable power. For example - I launch and feather my 422RWHP Supra and also daily drive it. The RPS will slip when you first install it. If you let it slip and/or try to launch it right way, you will glaze it.

Before you bail on the clutch assembly, you can sand all glazed surfaces with 600grit sand paper on a block, clean it well with brake cleaner and re-install it. Rough the flywheel and pressure plate surfaces up too. I know it's a pain in the ass, but you should be able to save that clutch assembly and a few dollars. When you drive the car, B-A-B-Y the clutch for at least 400 miles. No riding the pedal, no launches.

Alternatively, RPS told me that if i ever have a problem, I can send the clutch to them. They surface and check the PP + re-pad the disc for a nominal fee.
 
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KeithH

New Member
Mar 31, 2005
1,716
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Portland, OR
I don't have 300hp (crank or wheel) but my reman'd stocker has gone 136,000 miles. That's right. I replaced it back at 51,000 miles and the car now has ~187,000 miles.

I'm riding just below fuel cut with intake, dp, exhaust, and a manual boost controller.

Don't tell me these cars aren't reliable!

Keith
 
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SupraB

Need 4 speed mods!
Jul 24, 2006
71
0
0
Spokane WA
I broke it in properly, I did not drive it hard at all for about 400miles. I know that I did not have my throughout bearing installed properly which is probably why its all glazed. so you think I can still save my clutch setup??? please give me as much detail as you have, I cant take pictures at the moment, maybe later. the surfaces are all brown from burning, they say that they're unsalvageable, who knows. I've gone against there advice a couple times now and this is where its gotten me. thanks.
Brendan
 
slidebabyslide

slidebabyslide

Starting FRESH !!!!
Dec 17, 2006
662
0
0
39
salinas,california
my 6 puck clutch to be honest i never really broke mine in, and i have had mine for about 2 yrs , same with my buddys. i was told by the shop that i got the clutch was that the 6 puck clutches don't need to break it. thats weird that your clutch only lasted 4 months
 
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Supra

New Member
May 11, 2005
304
0
0
49
Rockford, IL
SupraB said:
I broke it in properly, I did not drive it hard at all for about 400miles. I know that I did not have my throughout bearing installed properly which is probably why its all glazed. so you think I can still save my clutch setup??? please give me as much detail as you have, I cant take pictures at the moment, maybe later. the surfaces are all brown from burning, they say that they're unsalvageable, who knows. I've gone against there advice a couple times now and this is where its gotten me. thanks.
Brendan
Click to expand...

If you want a trouble free setup, resurface your OEM flywheel. Make sure the shop re-cuts the step to the right depth. Buy an OEM disc and pressure plate. Replace the throwout bearing and pilot bearing. Sell the RPS and flywheel to recup most of your expense and suck up the rest as a learning expirience.

If it was my car - I would buy a new throwout bearing AND pilot bearing. Install both carefully, and correctly.

If I had some money and planned to go over 300RWHP
- RPS will re-pad the disc, cut and balance the pressure plate and send it back to you for a nominal fee.
If I planned to daily drive at less than 300HP
- I would try to rough the surfaces up with sandpaper and a block and reuse the RPS setup.

NOTE that I do my own labor and know it takes me 2-3 hours to change the clutch. So if the RPS doesn't work after scuffing it up, oh well. It cost me next to nothing to try and I could still sell it. If I had to pay labor, I would probably lean towards going 100% stock and having it done once.

Tough call on the flywheel. I personally would get rid of the AL flywheel if your OEM is in good shape. You may need to get your OEM flywheel cut and stepped to the right height though if it's glazed and worn which will add ~$40 to your bill. I prefer stock to aluminum.

The only setup I would really avoid, is Autozone's clutch deal. That's the only clutch setup I've seen blatently fail, and that was on an stock NA. :3d_frown:
 
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SupraB

Need 4 speed mods!
Jul 24, 2006
71
0
0
Spokane WA
-Rich87Tx2 said:
If you want a trouble free setup, resurface your OEM flywheel. Make sure the shop re-cuts the step to the right depth. Buy an OEM disc and pressure plate. Replace the throwout bearing and pilot bearing. Sell the RPS and flywheel to recup most of your expense and suck up the rest as a learning expirience.

If it was my car - I would buy a new throwout bearing AND pilot bearing. Install both carefully, and correctly.

If I had some money and planned to go over 300RWHP
- RPS will re-pad the disc, cut and balance the pressure plate and send it back to you for a nominal fee.
If I planned to daily drive at less than 300HP
- I would try to rough the surfaces up with sandpaper and a block and reuse the RPS setup.

NOTE that I do my own labor and know it takes me 2-3 hours to change the clutch. So if the RPS doesn't work after scuffing it up, oh well. It cost me next to nothing to try and I could still sell it. If I had to pay labor, I would probably lean towards going 100% stock and having it done once.

Tough call on the flywheel. I personally would get rid of the AL flywheel if your OEM is in good shape. You may need to get your OEM flywheel cut and stepped to the right height though if it's glazed and worn which will add ~$40 to your bill. I prefer stock to aluminum.

The only setup I would really avoid, is Autozone's clutch deal. That's the only clutch setup I've seen blatently fail, and that was on an stock NA. :3d_frown:
Click to expand...

Great info, thanks.
Thats actually the way im leaning right now, Im gonna go back to stock for now have rps resurface everything, and put it in later when I do get over 300+ RWHP. I think its a good plan, kind of an expensive lesson but oh well, like you said its a learning experience.
That is some great advice dude, thank you.
Brendan
PS anyone wanna buy a Fidanza flywheel????
 
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