brakes for a drifter

MmmBoost

DDS Performance
drilled and slotted.

the slots constantly scrape a new surface on teh pad to prevent rotor glazing and have consistent braking force.

the drilled holes help cool the rotor down during high heat situations (a la drifting)

there is quite some debate as to whether drilling out so much material from the rotor actually makes it harder to dissipate heat and will make it warp sooner, but its up to you. if this car isnt your daily driver id say go drilled/slots
 

MmmBoost

DDS Performance
just the slotted. that will make the rotors last a bit longer, but depending on your driving/drifting habits will determine the rate of wear/warpage.

one thing to watch out for is that the slotted rotors eat pads faster than a regular rotor, so replacing the pads before it goes down to the chirper will prevent having to replace an expensive set of rotors since they can not be machined.
 

GotTurbos?

2J = Here; Swap = Near
Apr 24, 2006
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A civic? And slotted rotors tear up the pads very quickly. For a DD I would just get drilled, or nothing really. If you're wanting a good braking system, you're not going to find any combination of stock or "aftermarket" stock sized parts that are going to remotely compare to a big break kit.
 

GotTurbos?

2J = Here; Swap = Near
Apr 24, 2006
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big idealist said:
i planned on it... but i know this is prolly a stupid question since you just said that but arent our rotors 13inch stock???

No. Look at the forum vendors, click on "Arizona Performance" and look at his big break kits he offers.
 

Poodles

I play with fire
Jul 22, 2006
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slotted rotors can be machined, as can drilled

the slots (and a chamfer ont he drilled holes if they're decent crossdrilled rotors) are usually at the depth of replacement, in other words, if you have to machine that deep, you need to be replacing them.

drilled rotors crack, it's a fact.

Drifting is done with the e-brake and gas pedal anyways...
 

GotTurbos?

2J = Here; Swap = Near
Apr 24, 2006
951
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Dallas, TX
If you don't need the actual brakes to drift... you're driving a slow car. A lot of courses have you going at pretty high speeds coming up on sharp corners, you cant just yank the e-brake 200' before the turn and hope you take it sideways. This is one of the most retarded threads I've ever taken part of.
 

turbotrev

Goin WEEEEE on my gsxr600
Aug 7, 2006
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hey Big I. im goin to talk to Andy at Arizona performance tuesday so ill ask him on what would be best for your setup
 

Poodles

I play with fire
Jul 22, 2006
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GotTurbos? said:
If you don't need the actual brakes to drift... you're driving a slow car. A lot of courses have you going at pretty high speeds coming up on sharp corners, you cant just yank the e-brake 200' before the turn and hope you take it sideways. This is one of the most retarded threads I've ever taken part of.

doesn't sound like he's going to be hitting a course with it, just doing it in parking lots...

now if he's asking about doing a road course... he better be getting a BBK or he's gonna be hurtin...
 

NashMan

WTF did he just wright ?
Aug 5, 2005
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well sloted rotor's are for race pads to bring the pads up to temp
and cut the pad down

drilled is great for wet weather and heat dispation and busrts of hard brakeing not drag braking aka ride brakes cause they may crack all so you will see most bmws and porces have driller rotors formt eh factory

drilled and sloted rotora are just stuiped show crap

for me i run drilled rotor and never get fad what so ever even when i take it to the track or windy road

but i must add i drop alot fo weight out my car as well