I need to get new head bolts or studs... What's best? what's the difference? Supra's from the factory came with head bolts, Why not just get ARP head bolts?
ARP head bolts/ Studs what's the difference?
- Thread starter chris89
- Start date
Studs are stronger and provide a more consistant clamping force. Studs are also more expensive, which is why Toyota used bolts 
How do studs work? one end threads into the block? then the other end has another set of threads, what do u use a bolt or something, it just seems stupid.
^ Their is threads on both sides. One threaded side goes into the engine block and the other side has a nut and washer you put on after the head is on. Then torque it down.
Chris - Yes studs are threaded into the block and use a 12 point nut & washer on the other side to secure the head. It's not stupid at all...like I said, studs provide a more consistant clamping force...there is no "torque twist" on the stud shaft like you have on a bolt.
ARP studs or bolts have their own torque spec and that spec depends on the lube used (moly or oil)...you need to follow it exactly...and the TSRM torque pattern using incremental increases in torque to final spec. If you use studs, put the washers on the head holes before you drop the head on the block...otherwise you might not get them on and have to raise the head again.
ARP studs or bolts have their own torque spec and that spec depends on the lube used (moly or oil)...you need to follow it exactly...and the TSRM torque pattern using incremental increases in torque to final spec. If you use studs, put the washers on the head holes before you drop the head on the block...otherwise you might not get them on and have to raise the head again.
all i'm worried about is reliability, Would an arp head bolt be just about as reliable as a head stud? I just want the car to be reliable for atleast a year or 2.
chris89 said:
ARP bolts are a great upgrade to stock. Studs are a little better, but nothing to lose sleep over.
Just curious about the proceedure Jdub. I used studs and what I did was install a few of the studs then sit the head on. Then I sit my washers in and did the rest of the studs, they are just put in finger tight right? There is a few of the studs that you can't get the washers on after the studs but wouldn't be a problem, you just have to unscrew the stud and install that way. Should you put all the studs on before you drop the head on? I'm trying to think of a reason to install all the studs first.jdub said:
AJ'S 88NA said:
If the engine is out of the car, you would definitely just install the studs first. You wouldn't have to "feel" around for the alignment pins when you were setting the head on.
AJ - You can do it either way. Engine out of the car I'm with Dugums...studs on 1st with washers in the holes. In the car, I align the head/HG with the two pins, drop the washers in the hole, and screw the studs in...getting clearance for the head above the studs is a challenge, especially with the back studs. You can do like you did too...a couple of studs for alignment, then screw the rest in from the top. I just wanted to point out getting the washes in *after* the studs are in place can be a problem. You can crack this nut a couple different ways
Finger tight is all you want on the block. Following ARP torque spec is really important.
Finger tight is all you want on the block. Following ARP torque spec is really important.
chris89 said:
Yes, they do come with directions.
Not much to either one.
Get a tap to clean the threading of the holes. Don't forget to read the note about aluminum heads at the bottom of the arp directions.