Hello all, its me again. I finally figured out why my tires would not spin! it was the rotors... totally rusted :cry: but now I think I have a new problem.. once again my car does not currently run. I am doing a motor swap on tuesday... here is the question... whenever I put the rotors all back on and the calipers.. if I even hit the brakes with the car off the calipers "squeeze" the rotor and does not release pressure that much.. is that normal... ? does the pressure get released on startup?
any brake experts out there?
- Thread starter suprabones
- Start date
No, it's not normal. There is a check valve inside the caliper to hold and release hydralic pressure and it sounds like yours it stuck. They're not going to release when you start the car.
Bottom line, rebuild or replace your calipers.
Bottom line, rebuild or replace your calipers.
the 2 little spring looking things below the pads? if so yes.. It seems funny that all 4 of my brakes are broke all at once then? what about brake caliper rebuild kits? know of any decent priced?
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A lot easier to just get rebuilt calipers at the parts store. Sounds like yours have been neglected and you might be in for more work than you would want by rebuilding them yourself. If I remember the rebuild kits were around $15.00, and the rebuilt calipers were around $50.00 about a year ago.
You did have the rotors turned right?
You did have the rotors turned right?
Check the brake pedal linkage for being too tight, the pedal linkage where it attaches to the master on the inside of the car should be loose without pressure on the pedal, if its compressed at all the drain back ports will be blocked and will not let fluid drain from the calipers back to the reservoir.
You can also try loosening one of the bleeder screws on one of the calipers open, if fluid squirts out like its under pressure and everything releases, theres something stopping fluid from draining back.
Suprabad, you sure theres a check valve in the caliper? pretty sure theres no valving in the calipers besides the bleeders.
Question for original poster, when did this happen? what was changed before it happened? was it something that just happened one day or were the brakes dragging gradually harder untill locking up like they are now?
Another thing, the pressure wont totally release on the rotor, it will be slightly harder to turn the rotor by hand after applying the brakes because the pads will be dragging on the rotor, if you can turn it by hand after pressing the brakes you should be alright. shouldnt take all your strength though.
You can also try loosening one of the bleeder screws on one of the calipers open, if fluid squirts out like its under pressure and everything releases, theres something stopping fluid from draining back.
Suprabad, you sure theres a check valve in the caliper? pretty sure theres no valving in the calipers besides the bleeders.
Question for original poster, when did this happen? what was changed before it happened? was it something that just happened one day or were the brakes dragging gradually harder untill locking up like they are now?
Another thing, the pressure wont totally release on the rotor, it will be slightly harder to turn the rotor by hand after applying the brakes because the pads will be dragging on the rotor, if you can turn it by hand after pressing the brakes you should be alright. shouldnt take all your strength though.
Id just go to napa and get rebuilt calipers, they come all nicely greased and ready to go. Whats the point of a motor swap if you cant stop with the new found power ;p
in reply to nosechunks, I have been sooo evil regarding my supra.... I have neglected to do anything on my supra since 2005 after a BHG. I am just now finally getting to it... I was in the military and didnt have much time to work on her. so the question about the brakes stemed from me not knowing much about brakes.. I think you answered my question... the rotors are awful looking. I had to get a wire wheel and grinder just to get them to spin in the calipers... and I CAN spin the rotor with greater force after hitting the brakes.. thank you :biglaugh:
sounds like you expect the pads to pull away from the rotor... they will lightly touch the rotor while turning...
yea as long as you can turn them by hand you should be ok. Another thing to try is to roll the car by pushing it and if it rolls freely its all good. it should slow to a stop naturally and shouldn't jerk to a stop.
Id still do a full brake job if you got the money, after all its been sitting along time it sounds like. Turn the rotors, new pads, new calipers, new lines and fresh fluid should cost that much.
nosechunks said:
You're right, my bad. I confused them with a different set of calipers. Usually I just buy rebuilds, but I rebuilt some MG calipers a while ago, and confused the two.
Never let it be said I won't fess up when I'm mistaken (wrong).
I dont have the cash right now, so hopefully the brakes will stop me for now 
I wont be "hot rodding" her until I finish doing the NA-T swap. as for my brake issues, I think they are all cleared up thanks everyone
I wont be "hot rodding" her until I finish doing the NA-T swap. as for my brake issues, I think they are all cleared up thanks everyone