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This might seem kind of stupid but: What if you made the flange a little thicker so you can mill it true after welding and not mess with the injetors?

http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/price/Toyota/Supra_86-92/Auto_Tech/Engine/Timing_Covers I do belive HPfreaks ship anywhere

It's fiesable to do. If I had a junk SC I could start the fabbing process. Start out fabbing with steel plates and such then send it to someone to do nice watercut aluminum flanges and aluminum tubes etc. Try to make a system where it would run on one of the existing drive belts. If anyone...

Jesus that guy sucks as life. Nice find *thumbs up*

You all can do better than that =-p It's not real muddin' till you can't see the paint on the truck =-) Damn I need money for a set of good rubber for the Silverado and a digi cam :(

My buddy has been running a set of delta regrinds in his b18 Hon-Duh. Has roughly 10K miles on them and still in good condition. Give them a call they can give you more options, I said 272 as that's a common grind for someone looking in to spraying their motor If u can get the new cams...

Welder took a shat on me so looks like I'm drillin. It's all good I was gonna put some new valves and seals in it anyways. Meaning I'm getting another head just in case lol

I'm hot tanking the block and had planned on a rebuild anyways =-) 1 thing about welding it is the f'n slag that comes with it. Another note: No other person touches my cars or truck unless: A. State inspection or B. Machineshop matching bearing for a build. If something f's up I can only...

That's funny I've never had any issues with e-mailing them for a quote... try it again lol. Or maybe look them up in the yellowpages. I think they're in Washington, can't remember off the top of my head.

Pull the motor, take the pan off, remove the 2 12mm bolts and the crossover tube and it's out. Not sure if you could side the pan off without pulling the motor out. Have fun =-p

If the strip out stuff fails I'm going to drill it out. Thank god I got ARP headstuds to put in the f'er :)

never delt with an autotrans personaly but you could go to a local pull-a-part and try a differant valvebody. Also pull your transpan off and look for loose/frayed/cut wires. If all else fails I'de say it's a good time to do a r154 conversion.

www.deltacam.com (around $90 ea ground to your specs. I think most guys get a 272 cut and push a wet spray system) Your best bet, aside from a pair of cams, is raising the compression with domed pistons, a good port n polish(and valve job), and aftermarket engine management. I've seen plenty...

It should be. Be sure to set the motor to TDC and mark the position of the distributor(i.e sharpie mark on the distributor ear and head and the spot the rotor button points to) to make re-timing the motor easyer.

Cool link, I'm going to pass that link to a friend who has the same issue

That's why I haven't gone that far yet. If I break something I'll want to replace it with an upgrade; which, 9 times outa 10, would be some type of motor swap that I don't have the funding for lol

Tried JB stickwelding an 11mm hex socket inside of it. Let it dry over night and it just crumbeled out. I was thinking about busting out my mig and welding a 1/4in drive extension in it but I think it would break from the stress of how ever tight the other guy torqued it to. I'll see if...

SO I started takin' my 7m apart. Got the intake and exhaust manis off and some other small stuff. Pulled the cams and started on the headbolt. It seems the previous owner did a HG job on it and tripped the 3rd from the front (exhaust side) headbolt out. Due to space restrictions I can't...

It's normal.... I'll assume you're turning it with the plugs in

High miles... motor abuse(dogging it non-stop), junk bearings, low oil (both level and pressure). Hell there's a boatload of things that can cause it. Did you spin #4 or #5?