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Hello again all! I just replaced the heater core on my 89 Turbo (with a lot of help from you folks...thanks once again!). Finally got it all back together and everything functional, but I am still getting some rushing/gurgling sound once the thermostat opens and after a few minutes it begins...

Thanks to all for the quick responses. The problem with the engine starting was that I had only partially hooked up that largish rectangular connector to the back of the driver's fuse box. Got it up and running...hallelujah! Still no idiot lights or gauges but tackling that now. Only thing...

I should have known better, probably, but just changed out the leaking heater core in my '89. Was very careful with nuts and bolts, etc. Got it all back together with no spare parts left and was proud. Then, it would not start. Engine cranks but doesn't try to start. Suspect no ignition...

Now having same problem; seems to be only when engine is cold; lights go out above roughly 2000 RPM. Checked battery and alternator. Both are fine. Any ideas? Thank you very much.

Sorry for shouting, but this is about to get bad real soon. I have an 89 turbo. The fuel filler door release lever stopped functioning and I can't get the door open. This is my daily driver and I'm down to 1/8th of a tank. I have the new cable on order but will take a couple of days to get...

Mobil One 15W50 since it was broken in, about 57 changes worth now.

I also have an 86 MR2 that I have played drift with occasionally. Never tried on my Supra, but don't see why it couldn't be done.

Get a K&N FIPK (Fuel Injection Performance Kit), as already suggested. It's easily installed, easily maintained and adds a bit of power. Good product.

I'm fighting the 1K idle problem right now but still getting 14~15mpg in town driving, so I don't think the high idle is the problem.

Those wheels on catback's gray Supra look real good. What are they?

First, be sure everything is tight so nothing is moving around. If so, you can adjust the glass position by loosing the bolts holding the glass in the regulator frame. Mark the positions before loosening, then loosen the bolts. Move the glass a hair in the required direction (apparently...

It's a matter of taste, but I think they ruin the lines of the car; also, I suspect they would be hell with the targa.

It looks real good without the moldings, but I'd be scared to park it around here. I'd be fixing parking lot dents weekly.

I've already said I'm up for buying a set. Waiting on an update as to when and where to send money.

Mine was bought from the original owner who was a car nut, so it was well cared for. However, it had been sitting up for almost three years after he replaced it as daily driver with an Audi. I took care of some minor bodywork issues, recovered the driver's seat, fixed the cruise control...

Excellent write up, no question. Making people do some of their own homework before calling for help may be a novel idea. Next thing you know, we may want them to start thinking for themselves. OMG!

I started doing my own oil changes after the last time I had to use 89jdm7m's screwdriver technique to get the oil filter off that the Time It Lube gorilla had tightened down with a breaker bar.

I'd be up for buying some metal sill plates. My plastic ones keep coming loose.

Reactions I generally get include: What is it? The top comes off? It's an '89...no way! Do you want to sell it? And every beat up Mitsubishi Eclipse I see tries to race me.

Someone's been hanging out with the Hondas...