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when i turn my key off i should all kinds if clicking from the isc right? because here is the thing i dont and i got power at b1 and b2 now if i re set my ecu first start the idle will be high a keep climbing but i shut it iff and restart it 850 rpms and the stupid timing is back so what signal...

also changed the engine temp sensor but i dont think isc is working

ok the isc tested ok but i had one on my other motor so i swaped it anyway and still no change any other ideas?

but could the isc effective timing when car is cold?

i did pull codes , and the aem wb self calibrates no way to recalibrate, and im not sure about isc,i was just reading about how to test it

maybe about 1.5 years old but i realy dont think its bad it is showing the changes my safc is trying to make

has no codes and ic pips held till 25 psi

sorry the pics are bad quality

im baffled, so when i start the car cold the timing starts out at about 3 degrees BTDC and idles about 850rpm's and with in a few seconds it will start advancing to 0 and and idle up and down about 100rpm's and after a few minutes (2-3) it evens out and starts to retard it takes about 10min to...

it was defiantly in diagnostic mode because the cel was flashing as it should and i used my gun just like i have always have, hooked to the battery and the pick up on plug wire 1(or 6) gun set to 0

ok well i for the the life of me can't figure out why i can not get a good clean timing reading its all over the place and i set it to 10 with box pined it revs up and down then stalls i set it to 12 and it fluctuates between 12 and 16 or so. and Ive tried changing coils,ecu,three different...

the afrs by 5psi are in the 10s and by full boost its reading 10.0 (thats as low as my wideband reads)and as for boost leak, i guess its possible but it happens at 8 psi and the boost is still going up could a boost leak cause that? i thought as long as the boost was still climbing the power...

well since i did my turbo swap ive been noticing the the car pulls ridiculously hard up to 8psi (max boost is set at 11psi) then the power just seems like it starts falling off and i cant figure out why, the boost doesnt drop off but the power does and AFRs are between 10.1-11.2 at full boost...

just thought id post a pic of my low budget set up (turbo and intake manifold all under 400$)

ok thank yous I appreciate the help and info

so what you saying is i should have no problem just running stock oil presser? The wh1c i have is 0ff a 95 12v Cummings and holset list it as having the 12cm if you dont mind can i ask how long yous have been running your holsets, is it real laggy,how does the power come on and have yous had any...

well the shaft on my stock ct26 in my dd bent and the only good turbo i got here is a wh1c(hx35 with a 12cm hot side) and of course im broke, yep story of my life so anyway i got every thing tor down and im finishing up welding my ct26 to t3 adapter and down pipe but im not sure about the oil...

ok i got a 7mgte bolted to a w58 but the stock clutch will not hold anymore and sense i cant find a auto to swap in cheap enough right now i was going to throw in another clutch to get me by and i came across the this rhinopca kit 1608sr300...

i thought about just changing the bearing but this is my dd and i only get one day a week off (sunday) so if i bone it up trying to change it i will not have a ride to work