Search results

because pictures

I'm just going to keep my d2 coilovers and most other things stock. its come to a part in the build where i could either do a ground up rebuild or just slap my engine in and run as is. The motor doesn't sit back as far as i wanted before it hits the firewall. And the specs for the japanese...

Ok i used my 7m ecu injectors and ignition system and it worked fine my next step is to mount the engine and wire it all up properly

I have d2 coil overs i think they are the cheapest and lightest i've had no problems with them yet except maybe they aren't stiff enough with the mk3s weight. Teins are another cheap one and are easy to adjust i've been told

What about my 7mgte ecu? can that be used to run a 2jzgte?

My engine is due to arrive soonish and before i begin converting and rebuilding it i wanted to test run it without the ecu. does anyone know if this is possible?

So i've bought a 2jz-gte vvti i'm looking to sort out everything i'll need for the conversion before my motor gets here from japan. I plan on making custom mounts and getting a drive shaft made to suit where ever i end up placing the motor. My main concern is utilizing the factory 86.5 digital...

yeah 86.5 Hmmm not looking good so far, the crank is bent and the block has corrosion damage around the coolant holes that is too close to the bores. I don't think i'll find another block anytime soon i might try metal spraying or bronze welding the areas. Do any of you guys know how much...

I bought an 86 MK3 7m-gte to use as a track car, i've been drivng it round for about a year and now the time has come to put the bitch up on blocks and start fucking with her. First up i've removed my v1 7mgte motor, still on standard sizes on everything. Only fault i've found is the center...

Yer or your head is a bit squished and the bolt holes are out of round. Love the thread good car speration

I've had my can vented to atmosphere for awhile and it just reaks of fuel and gives me that horrid wet looking black oil. Also has alot of condensation develop. Stock system is best. maybe just a can T'd into the suction of the air inlet. /wrists But in your pics there's no where that the...

Whoa i just had the same problem, this is freaky. but i took out my whole motor and stripped it. Also had a main bearing failure in the center. I'm going to buy a new egr valve doesn't seem to be any advantage in deleting it as when your on power it cancels it out any way.

Yeah from what ive been researching the older r150 before 1994 has an input shaft that is too short. But the newer ones can be used with an r154 bell housing, but i can't find any info on spigot size rear spline count or trans total length, it also seems like you need to do a bit of work to get...

thanks for that. now what about an r150? so far: w50 -7mgte ? w56 -7mgte ? w55 -7mgte yes w58 -7mgte yes r150 -7mgte ? r150f -7mgte ? r151 -7mgte ? r154 -7mgte yes

dunno im trying to see if an r150 will fit a 7mgte

nah thats just what it sounds like. put a pipe through the cat so the gases dont expand in it to make it sound smoother <experienced cat puncher>

fuck heaps of pages cbf reading them all looks clean, does it have hydraulics? wow its high. you were born in it, whoa awesome.

wow the problems you've had so far our cars could be twins

<Opinion>um weird. im starting to wonder if i should ever listen to anything written on this forum after this thread on how to re-route a pcv system. <Fact>The only reason toyota had the throttle bypass go through the same pipe that the rocker vents go through is that it's a tidy route to...

But what about us poor kids that want to fit a cheap manual trans to our 7m's to rid them of their auto boxs? will a w55 blend?