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Is there a quick test (ie - not involving engine tear down) to confirm worn rings? Just changed the oil. Got about 3 quarts out and it seemed "dirtier" than usual. What is strange is that cylinder pressures were measured pretty high (180-195psi) just after head gasket repair. I would...

1986.5 NA Supra with 143,000 miles. Just replaced head gasket about 5,000 miles ago and used a rebuilt head from http://cylinder-heads.com/ After a few minor hiccups, running without any problems this year, except that I have to put about 1 qt. of oil in every 500-1000 miles. No drips...

Here's photo of the plugs I removed. Cylinder #1 on the left and #6 on the right. What's going on in cylinder #6? I've never seen an insulator that brown before.

Well, I didn't want to burn through a bunch of drill bits and break a tap, so I bought one of these - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-640700/ and a 1/8" NPT to 3/16" hose barb that will work perfectly with the hose and meter I have in my Harbor Freight kit. Once I get everything...

Thanks for the ideas! I searched the forum and couldn't find anything. I happen to have a pressure kit from Harbor Freight that has just the right things I need. There is a short 6" hose with a 6.0 x 1.0 mm threaded connection on one side and a schrader valve on the other side. Just need to...

Update - Before going in to replace the MHG with a composite HG I had to clear-out the coolant flush I put in. While doing this I noticed tiny bubbles/foam coming out of the radiator while the engine was running. Even after flushing the system with water I still saw tiny bubbles coming out at...

Can someone point me to a kit I can buy so I can hook-up a fuel pressure gauge to my 7M-GE? Extra points for something inexpensive. Suspect I have a leaking injector (have trouble with warm starts) and want to verify before sending off the injectors for cleaning/tuning.

Here's some photos of the failed OEM head gasket after removal. You can see that it failed on cylinder 6 and that each exhaust coolant channel seal has been deformed. Cylinders 2 and 3 look OK to me, so not sure those "cracks" are much of an issue. Cylinders 6 and 5 Cylinders 4 and 3...

In reviewing pictures I took of the block I found some cracks between exhaust-side water jacket ports on cylinders 2 and 3. Also looks like a small crack from water jacket to head bolt hole. I reviewed close-ups of all other areas and found no other cracks. Should I be concerned? I don't...

I couldn't see any coolant leaking at the back of the engine, although I did have to move the big water union from my old head to the new, so I guess it's possible that I didn't get a good seal when re-installing. However, I think other posters are probably right that I need to abandon the...

Yes, I understand that. According to this site: http://bobmay.astronomy.net/misc/tempcoef.htm aluminum expands at twice the rate of iron. At hot temperatures the force on the head gasket/bolts should be greater than when cold. So in the past when I had problems with the OEM gasket it was due...

1986.5 NA Targa

Why the great compression readings when cold, then BHG when hot? I thought the ARP bolts would hold things together better when the going got tough?

As far as I can tell, coolant only getting out through radiator overflow ---------- Post added at 11:24 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:23 PM ---------- Correct. I don't have equipment to remove the block. Last HG I replaced lasted 15 years, but it was OEM.

Apologies for the long post. I recently put an HKS 1.2mm MHG on an 86.5 NA with a refurbed head (mirror finished) and a block that was only surface cleaned. Installed ARP bolts to 85ft lbs. Was thrilled to get 180-190 psi reading on all cylinders, and the car ran stronger than it ever has in...

I found I could turn the crank back and forth about 10 degrees and not detect any vertical movement in the stick. Too little movement of the pistons at the top. I found aligning the crank keyway to work best. I suppose the stick will do in a pinch if you didn't want to pull the harmonic...

Update. Had time this weekend to get the crank and cams aligned by taking off the harmonic balancer and aligning the key way perfectly vertical. Dropping stick in #1 spark hole is too subjective. Everyone knows the derivative of a sine wave at 90 degrees is zero - this means near TDC the stick...

Went back to check timing alignment and looked to be one tooth off (cam marks too far left). So I just adjusted that. I mentioned earlier that my crank key is munged up from probably running loose for years. There's a BIG gap on the left that allows the harmonic balancer to slip...

Didn't do anything to the bottom-end, so I suppose the rings could be affecting the compression differences between cylinders. Also, I may not have cranked the engine as long on cylinder 1. I wasn't watching the gauge on that one while cranking - so that could be the odd man out. All others were...

Once I get some fresh 91 octane gas in the car, is there anything I need to do to speed up ECU re-learning? Yes, of course timing light and jumper wire when the car was warmed up. I do need to double-check that the harmonic balancer is still aligned with TDC. Apparently ran with it loose...