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pulling the intake makes it way easier. But what you can also do, which is a pain in itself, is disconnect the ecu and pull the wiring harness back into the engine bay and pull the engine with wiring harness and then it's easier to pull the manifold and rest of the harness. then you can install...

try unplugging the tps and see if it makes a difference......I believe unplugging the tps causes that issue with the throttle

you're right, the tsrm does show different part numbers throughout the years, but the 1986.5 part number is listed to work from 01/1986 - 08/1987, which tells me the 1987 one should fit. I have yet to replace them on my 86.5 though, only done my 89. I would grab one from your local Napa and...

great to hear you got it running. with regards to the capacitors, if you're going to replace them, don't use old ones. most electronic shops in china town should carry them, if not online sites sell them too. I made it out but had a small fire which killed the night. limped it home and am...

they are available from rockauto.com, under the listing of "lift supports". I replaced mine a few years back and it did come with that bracket you are referring to, but double check the pic listed.

ya, better to not rush it anyways. I should be able to make it out to Cayuga tomorrow evening, weather permitting.

damn, I wouldn't have guessed that. well at least you figured it out :thumbup: and just in time for this weekend!

try using the continuity test function with audio on your multimeter, it makes it much easier. I went through this when I first did my swap (ended up being the polarity on one of the cam sensor plugs). You can leave it at one end hooked up and extend the other lead with some wire and just listen...

ya, I'd probably stick with the ngk number that's a direct cross from the bosch number just to be safe. edit: found my receipt, I am using 22013 and no issues. not sure what the difference is.....

I'm pretty sure i'm using 22013 for an 88 mustang....seems to work pretty good, had it for a couple seasons and no problems. where'd you get 22014 from? edit: ah, an 85 mustang. I can't remember why I chose an 88

too early to tell, but i'm hoping to. still have a lot to get done.

there's one mount point on the lower runners between 1&2 and another between 5&6.....but I don't have a jza70 harness so it might be off. I think it's fine if it's just a bit, because when I first checked my cam sensors plugs and found oil inside, she was running fine. but I think over time...

I know you mentioned "all ground points exist", does that include the two harness grounds under the intake that I have forgotten on many occassions? most coilpacks i've seen, although badly cracked, can start and poorly idle the engine. oil in the cam sensor connectors is a common issue. try...

swapping ignitors is all that's left really, you've done everything I can think of. if you have a spare crank sensor, i'd throw that in for fun. both cam sensors being bad is unlikely, and she'll run with one bad and one good. just curious, did you test the resistance of the wire alone (just...

the starwheel does not fully separate from the crank timing gear, it actually spins around giving false readings to the sensor. It may look ok but you have to try spinning it with a screwdriver and it shouldn't move. I had a similar issue and only confirmed it by removing the harmonic balancer...

I can't identify the sound, but I'd start looking at the oil. Drain it and look for metallic particles. Maybe pop the valve covers and check the valve lash too

Wow, not bad at all. It's hard to tell from the pics, what kind of lenses did you use?

my buddy burned up 4 alternators on his s13 back when we first started doing swaps, and it proved to bad cable from the alternator to the battery. guess it was too loose causing excessive resistance that was backfeeding into the alternator and frying them after a few days.

pic 8 is the crank sensor located right behind the alternator (pigtail should be clipped onto the block), either that, or another vsv. they have similar plugs the rest i don't know cause i scrapped a lot of my stock vsv's and such.

just looking at a pic of a standard r154 and your slave cylinder+bracket, i have no idea how that is going to bolt up. maybe the soarer r154's have a slightly different casting, and have some extra tapped holes for it.........either that, or i'm totally lost. i would gamble with 12mm x 1.25 for...