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Just an update, got to checking everything after work. Tested both sensor wires for continuity, found the culprit. Tested the connectors, found one that was loose, ecu side, looks like I just pulled it out while splicing the speed or throttle lines. Well, everything going good now, take it...

Hey all, Wired in my SAFC yesterday, inline with my AVC-R, and both seem to be working perfectly. I did not wire a knock sensor signal into the SAFC, I only used power, both grounds, speed, rpm and the air meter wires. However, consistantly on every start I now throw a CEL as soon as I hit...

You do not have to remove the bumper cover. Should only be the 3 nuts along the very bottom, 3 along the top, and if I remember two in the middle. Try taking the license plate lights out and see if you can see anything there.

Your readings look pretty good, looks like you're just running a little rich. Only thing s I could suggest would be a little bit of octane booster, clean air filter, maybe go for a little aggressive drive before getting readings done again to warm up the cat. And as a note for the weight...

Couple different places could be holding it on. If you've still got your side mouldings on,under the taillights, the two side sections of moulding actually overlap the center sections molding, so you have to undo the side sections (under the taillights) to get the centre out. Also, inside the...

I've got a killswitch wired up to my neutral start switch. Rather than having to press the clutch in to start the car, you have to flick a switch. The switch is hidden but easily accessible when i hop into the car. Just a little added security, already have electronic immobilization with the...

Well, with those conflicting pressure values, I would lean towards you have a leak between those two vacuum sources, as you are losing pressure somewhere along that pathway. You should be able to see 11.5-12 psi without any hint of fuelcut, so there definately is something leaking along the way.

Usually code 51 is associated with a TPS misalignment, and probably easiest thing to fix (recalibrate using the TSRM), so maybe start there. TSRM: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/ TPS check: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/fi/FI_101.html * adjustment page is like 3...

Hmmm...as the low end of the range never changes, yet the high end does, do you think this would reduce the "resolution" of the data monitor? Would seem like if there were no detrimental effects, wouldn't they just input with the greatest range possible and not worry about changing ranges...

Fixed.. I keeed I keeed!!! :yelrotflm

Heh, sry IJ, went to bed after posting =) First, full manual if you wanna take a look at it, scroll down to bottom, click free, follow instructions: http://rapidshare.de/files/19029027/Apexi_AVC-R_Manual.pdf.html Although I don't have the boost set up gear-based, stock ct and all, the...

Apex'i AVC-R Nice bright screen, fits perfectly in ashtray area =) Ability to monitor up to four values, including speed, rpm, boost/vacuum, throttle position. Able to monitor those values as digital "dials" on the screen, numerically, or graph-wise, and can save and replay up to 20 seconds...

Yup, seems to be a common problem. I got a handle for $40 on ebay, paint really crappy on it, so I'm prepping it and gonna get it painted, hopefully they can paint match it pretty well..

Take a look at this site, will help you with everything.. http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/techtip/engineerrorcodes.html *heh, dammit jdub =)

Yup, that's the way it should be, also the "new way" found by portez to calibrate the tps. When jumping the diagnostic box, you want your tps positioned so that you get no codes at idle, ie. with the throttle plate closed, but the slightest push of the throttle, the car should throw the code.

Yeah, random antennas on the back. Looks like the type 1 bomex bumper, the "big mouth" one.

ngk wires or stock wires seem to have better reviews than msd wires. For plugs, it's really up to personal preference. Coppers offer excellent conduction, but have to be changed frequently. Platinums last a long time, but less conduction. Iridiums seem to be the best of both worlds. I...

Yup, you don't need to hook it up, would be connected to a switch for scramble boost if needed. Mine is left disconnected.

Sounds good, good luck with it, never had any problems with mine. Damn them for not making an 88 extension =)