Okay so i replaced the TPS sensor, It idles fine. I hit the throttle it does pretty good but if i left of the throttle it drops down to like 100 rpms and starts shaking then kick starts itself back to idle then idles fine. Could this be my IACV? I know if i take this thing to a shop they will...
My battery has been disconnected since this has happend so all the codes are reset. and the light hasnt come on. Last time it was on though it was throwing two codes, knock sensor code and TPS code. I fixed the knock sensors and the engine light went off
Hey there I've got a problem, 87 turbo 7mgte, my car had been driving good for awhile no engine lights good boost everything good for the moment except it had this weird thing where if i revved the engine fast or hit the throttle fast past 3k rpms when i let of the throttle my cars rpms would...
Amy tips on how to make one :) i have a can of carb cleaner i heard if you spray that around the pipping itll mess with the idle and you could find leak.
Hard to tell, My aftermarket boost gauge is unplugged cause ive yet to attach it to the new pipping. The stock one goes from about -4 to 4 if i mash it, but sometimes i can hear the air without that gauge showing any boost. that gauge never worked to well though.
My 51 and 52 were on and i just rewired the knock sensors and no more engine codes. It feels like it builds boost if i accelerate slowly. But if not its like its just blowing out all the boost. And when it hits the cut its like i can mash the gas peddle alll the way down and the car just slows...
So i just put on new intercooler pipping, intercooler, BOV because i thought i had a boost leak. But im having the same problem I was having before I replaced this stuff. If i gun my car it sounds like its just blowing off air and im hitting fuel cut. I have bigger injectors and lexus afm so I...
I doubt its the rewire cause when i rewired it it ran completely fine for 6 months and i drove the car everyday, Im thinkin maybe both the knock sensors i ordered went bad, Im gonna check with a voltage meter and also relocate the ground for the shielded wire and see if that does anything...
I grounded only the sensor side of the shielding. and it worked for 6 months, i guess it has to be the sensors cause nothing on the wiring has changed. unless its my ECU
Ill check it with the voltmeter thank you for that advice. It is possible that both of the knock sensors i ordered are bad, My lucks that bad i wouldnt be suprised lol
I rewired both knock sensors when i first got the car cause it had a code 52, and i mustve done it right cause the code went off and never came on for 6 months and i drove it everyday, then all of a sudden it came back on again, if i clear the codes it stays off for about 2 minutes into driving...
I was wondering if there is a way to completely delete the check engine light? So that it never comes on nomatter what. If so please inform me! Cause I've tried everything to get this Knock sensor code to go off and it refuses, I rewired the knock sensors when i first got the car and the light...
Cars still throwin the stupid knock sensor code, just lowered the boost level and replaced my whole intercooler and pipping gettup and put a HKS BOV on it. Figured it wouldve been throwin the code cause of the high boost or a boost leak but thats fixed now, So anyone know how to fix this knock...
Well my car is still throwin this engine code, Ive replaced both knock sensors and rewired them with shielded cable and its still throwing this code. Is there away to make the engine light stop coming on so i can stop hitting fuel cut? my engine runs fine no knocks or pings, revs good through...
The oil galleys where bored out when the engine was rebuilt. It runs fine on the 20 50w or had been for aslong as ive had it. But i cant figure this damn engine light out. Its like a flip of a coin if it comes on. One day ill drive it all day it wont come on. One day ill drive it until it warms...
My oil pressure seems fine :/ I add oil almost weekly cause my turbo burns it. I have to put 20 50w in it to keep the pressure up cause the oil galleys were bored out when the engine was rebuilt but the oil is to thick for the turbo so under high boost it burns it.
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