good question i did it with spare wire i had but i would buy 8-10 ft just to be overly safe, ill go measure the actual length right now and add that to my original post.
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yeah feel free to flame my stuff man to be honest im always down to learn something new. im surprised i havent been beat down on this already. im just sharing the info i have and if there is better then lets see it. im just here to learn like everyone else.
to be honest most places that sale wire by the foot will have info their or a recommended fusing for that particular wire, it comes down to strand count material used ect ect. its honestly a low risk wire since its so above and beyond what you car would put through it stock especially since most...
yeah those terminals were only like 8 bucks each or something. i got them at darvex.com. i was looking though, and it might be a pain in the ass if i ever need a jump but with the stereo im putting in there is a good chance that ill end up with one battery up front and one in back or 2 in back...
thank you sir. its something ive seen mentioned on here alot but never seen detailed. i just figured i would show one of a million ways to do it for someone that may have wanted to do this but was a little hesitant to try.
you know i struggled for a while deciding where to put it but i figured since it can benefit everyone with or without big audio i would put it here, especially since we all seem to add tons of extra electronics.
" i think " everything you will need to make the stereo work will be in the harness. the black wire with the metal end is for the antenna the white wire im not sure, though i dont think it has anything to do with the antenna. dual is not great nor good really. for you just wanting to have...
i would use the wiring adapter, i got my wiring harness and mounting from walmart, just makes things easier when you can wire it up outside the car and then snap it in. i have to disagree that dual is awefull, its not great but its not kraco or something, for him it will be fine. the head unit...
well you would fuse it at where the wire is rated to burn which would be more dependant on the wire which in my case is around 300+ amps, but its kind of a depends who you situation. a lot of guys say you have to and a lot dont. i guess it is really a personal choice. the smart money would be on...
thank you guys!!! i hope this helps people out some. one of those things everyone should do no matter what....hopefully some people will try it them selves or even find better ways and places to run everything
I'm currently in the process of upgrading my stereo system and am trying to get the car electronically prepared for this system so i don't tear up my new audio gear or worse, tear up my cars electronics. what good is a nice car audio set up if your car is parked broken? many upgrades will go...
i dont want to be a stereo jerk here but i hope you didnt pay much for that sub as the rms watts are junk and for very little cost you could get a sub that could handle real power, even if you dont want to pound, you could keep the gains low but head room is nice. my 8" sundown can handle 400w...
i got a set of small block chevy header gaskets and cut my own out of that...that way i know they can take the heat ok...just a thought...worked well for me.
american carbonfiber will make what ever you want and there is a guy on here too nightrider760 is doing carbon fiber too and works in conjuntion with american carbon fiber..maybe try him...he quoted me on a price for CF door panels and it was decent. also you could try retrospec they may do it...
cool ordered some of the kevinM replicas from a guy on here so thats all sorted but im curious now about the retro spec rear door pods...anyone used them? why cant i just cut the trim peice in the rear to fit 6.5's also?
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