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I appreciate the replys guys. I have not yet tested the resistances in the air flow meters themselves as the other AFM I tried was supposedly pulled off a running car. The HAC is something I should test, I will get on that. Continuity was checked by unplugging both ends of the wiring...

helpppp meee

Hey, Recently, my car suddenly developed a horrible idle and inability to rev. My first thought was the AFM and after checking the codes and getting 24 and 31 I assumed I was correct. I then got another working AFM and the same exact thing happened. I've tested continuity between...

That is also not factoring in the "squish" of the head gasket, especially the stocker since it is hard to know what it is after it has been squished. Or am I horrendously wrong on that...

they don't float

and for the computers it doesn't matter, just splice the connector that corresponds to your tranny on

what's the point of two SAFCs?

no, the car is basically a turbo engined car at that point...minus the fact that the CR is 9.2:1 instead of 8.4:1 and you're missing a knock sensor...oh...and oil squirters and cams are different

Dude, you're the same age as me. Have you never gone out with a girl? Just be yourself, and act chill about things, don't get to jumpy and nervous.

I think it was a dealer option

Could someone please tell me the voltage potential between the block or any other grounded point, and the knock sensor's ECU input wire (green plug terminal). Thanks alot

Yeah, I'm thinking my plan will be to first try out another ECU as it is the only thing I haven't touched, and then going back to the two knock sensor setup as I now have a new KS and one that is known the be operational

BTW, do you know if there is a resistor inside the ECU? Projectsupra1 suggested the idea that if there was a resistor inside the ECU, after all those months of running with one knock sensor it simply burnt out the resistor inside the ECU (if there is one). I think my next step might be to try...

Thanks for the quick reply, the thing is, I have no where to put a second knock sensor as the holes are not predrilled on the NA block. I can not get a drill in there to tap it either. I tried building a bracket to adapt it to one of the other pre-existing tapped hold (for the AC bracket or...

Hey, This question is mostly targeted towards NA-T people with GTE electronics. Although it is rather unique, if you know about simple electrical currents I'd appreciate your help. I have been throwing a code 52, short in knock sensor circuit, for some time now. I have replaced everything-...

3s-gte is MR...

Yes, you'll need a high temp torch. First put the entire hub assembly in the freezer for awhile, then heat the metal jacket around the bushing with the torch. You'll need to get the metal almost red hot. At that point, you'll be able to poke the old bushing out and slide the new bushing...

No sir, I'm running 10W30.

This is true. Also, with alot of those octane boosters, they trick you. When it says it raises octane 10 points their using some system where 1 point= .1 point octane. Look on the back for the fine print.

Hey, I've got a peculiar problem with my oil pressure. When I go WOT and the RPMs rise very rapidly, the oil pressure actually dips down. If I were to slowly accelerate up to some higer RPM, the oil pressure would gradually build. This weirdness only happens on occasion but it is enough...