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ouch! Maybe I should run now, the corrado is temperamental enough!

Unless there is something horribly wrong with your motor, send it to a machine shop for a quote to get it back running. Your chances of a rod knock or worse is high with any JDM. Very high probability you'll be sending something out, so it may as well be the one you know the history of....

Yeah 86yota, I'm told it was like this from the beginning, but not quite so extreme. I've triple checked the TPS & ISC and now I'm thinking about switching the O2 sensor since it doesn't check out according to TSRM (no voltage bounce across E & VF on check connector) it holds steady at 2.2v.

Thanks supramacist! I was going to check the ohms on the TPS but his multimeter doesn't work without a fuse, go figure :D. I'll pick up a can of starting fluid on the way over there & a mini .315amp fuse (along with my multimeter). After this, I'm going to rebuild another stock na for another 87...

We replaced any hose that had visible signs of wear, like cracked ends or cracked sheath when bent and any that were stiff. I think they all should have been replaced personally, I replaced all of them on my 90 corrado with silicone ones. Probably tell him that he needs to pick a few more feet...

Hi again ;) Ok, the car is up and running quite well. I suspect it may have an exhaust leak in the downpipe. All stock. Problem: Hunting idle with the scale continually decreasing until almost stalling. When 1st started, it idles fairly steady at ~ 1000, after a minute or two it starts...

Check your compression and leakdown test. Sounds like it's timed after TDC. when we started it up, it was timed at 0 BDC, should be around 10 BDC

Yeah, thanks that's what I thought. I was wondering where that screwdriver came from supramacist ;) It was dirty before I cleaned all the connections with contact cleaner. Shame on me... Hopefully she'll start in a little while!!!! Just have radiator, hoses, belts & throttle body left to put...

What is this connector? The clear/opaque white one pointed at by the screwdriver. It is located in the harness under the intake bundled with starter, blue vsv & ground wires. It is female & has blue-yellow, yellow, black & red wires. I checked my disassembly pics and believe it is unconnected...

Thanks jdub, that's what I suspected. Now to track down a tap. Doubt I'll find it locally, MSC direct has a variety of em for ~$60.

Argh! bloody h*ll. The banjo bolt (90401-22004) broke off in my head and when I finally got it out, it had flattened the threads in the head. Now I gotta retap or if there isn't enough left to retap, upsize or helicoil it. I can get the the tpi (it's 1.5mm) but am having difficulty determining...

Now to find a #1 main bearing in std size 2.... I'd looked on trademotion Champion toyotaworld but only at main bearings, just checked bearing under crankshaft&bearings and viola!! $18 per, order by number 1-5! Hopefully a local dealer will have it in stock.

Thanks IJ.!! Ouch! Can they be bought individually? All I see listed are sets. The set that came with this mess are 7 of the same (sized correctly, but all equal in width)!!

Is the #1 main bearing different than the rest of the main bearings? The notch for the tab is closer to the rear of the motor and the other 6 are all closer to the front. It seems that a bearing that sits in #2-7 would sit outside in #1. Sorry if it's noob, but I just spent the last hour...

truth!! I get large fuel & oil lines at a industrial hose supplier, they have any and all hoses for industrial use and often the hose size you need they may only have in stock in a rating that cost more than the dealer hose. Mainly good for older cars where there exists no dealer option.

I don't see why you couldn't use a hose of the correct size, provided it doesn't kink. Before you do anything else, either pull the motor, or drop the oil pan (i'd pull the motor). Pull the the rod caps to see what's bad & how bad. Find a machine shop. It's unlikely that the piston bores are in...

Possibly bad rotor? Bearings are pretty easy to check, although they are not an intermittent problem.... Jack the car up, pry up on the wheel to see if there is play. Take wheel off and check rotor runout.

Wow!!! We drove an NA that was knockin louder than normal conversation over 5 miles (at 30-50mph) and never threw a rod. It has 3 spun bearings, but the bearings were still intact. Bummer. GL.... edit... just pulled the pan off that motor and #6 rod nut is off and squashed with rod bolt...

What he said ^^^ I'm with AJ, the JDM is gonna need a few hundred minimum. Mine had spun bearings so it was exactly like the one I was planning on replacing. I don't see why a motor that is in spec would need anything more than polishing and new bearings/rings. If it is destined to be a normal...

I don't know if it's in the felpro headgasket kit, not sure it would be required for a head job, but it was in the rebuild kit. It's just paper, so if it isn't then, make one either from a sheet of paper gasket material or RTV.