Search results

Wow- it's been awhile. This isn't any huge update, but there is some progress on the car. I finally got tired of the crappy sideskirts and rear bumper on the car, and have decided to go a bit more OEM with the final look. Bottom line- I wan't my car to ultimately look like a slightly modded...

I had put Tockiko blues in the front, and I think they were a bit softer than the KYB's, so good for the bumps maybe. I've used KYB's on a Z car and a Golf GT, and found them to be OK, but no experience w/ them on the Supra.

LOL- I've done it exactly that way before- I 'roto-rootered' the EGR itself as well. PS- I was thinking about the intake blockage issue a bit more last night, wondering if maybe there's just enough EGR flow at idle to cause stumbling, but not enough flow at speed, due to the possible...

No, I didn't check it, but I did check to make sure that the EGR itself was feeding the intake- I applied suction directly to the valve, and the engine began to stumble and die- as per the TSRM. I assume that shows there is sufficient flow into the intake manifold, but I might just take the EGR...

Ouch-yeah. That'll do it. Glad you found the problem.

Engine timing is at 10btc. O2 sensor is 1 yr. old and operating normally. Time from driving till rollers was always less than 5 minutes. Unsure if the mixture is running lean at all, but it's set at the same setting on MAFT as last year's test. Maybe I'll bump up the part-throttle mixture a...

Now every year, I normally have to do a bit of tweaking to pass emissions, and it's usually with the EGR valve. And as usual, I had high NOx when I tried this year- roughly 1800ppm vs. the allowed ~950ppm. The HC's(and everything else) were easily 20% under max limits. Well, I checked the EGR...

I use this setup, have for 2+ years, never had a problem with it. I don't currently have any other tuning device(aka- SAFR, SAFC), so I'm sure mine's not tuned as well as it could be. However, I have ZERO problems with hesitation, rich-running, or A/F flatspots, at least in the sense of...

I bought mine from Goodson. CHEAP, compared to OEM.

PS- you said that the head was rebuilt- Are you sure that the cam timing is correct? A couple of teeth off, and the car won't hardly run.

I did for two years, no problems. This was at ~ 12lbs boost on stock CT.

30 psi, but you DON'T want to spend money on pistons? I say you make sure you get some really good pistons, rods and bearings for that kind of abuse. Probe pistons are cheaper than others, but I would spend the extra money on having them thermo coated for those kind of boost levels.

You will see pressure on the gauge- it'll take about 10-15 seconds, and it won't be a huge amount.

Ladies and gentlemen- Give it up for a pair of working hatch struts!!!

If this is on an R154, you better check that the slave cylinder rod is seated on the clutch fork, and hasn't shot out- if it did, that'd be why you're spilling brake fluid, and why you have no pedal resistance. PS- otherwise, make sure your bleed valve to the slave is CLOSED.

hmm.... guess not?

I like what alot of people have put here- here's my list, and not much different from the others: MAFT PRO w/ speed density & boost harness ~700 Titan/ HKS MHG ~150 ARP's for head ~150 Synapse Sychronic BOV...

Well, today's the 1st Thursday of the month- anyone heading down to the midtown Varsity meet tonight? I was also wondering- now that I live in Lawrenceville, is there anywhere up here that people like to cruise/ congregate? I used to live in Kennesaw, and Barrett pkwy was the place to go- if...

Packed mine w/ assembly lube, cranked with the EFI fuse pulled.

7MGE to 7MGTE swap with supermonitor, no problems. Just wish I got the mileage the monitor claimed I was running. : )