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I don't think the pilot bearing could cause this. And why would you think you don't have the pilot bearing in?? Did you take it out? Does the clutch feel normal? Have you bled it? Anyway- you said you know you put the disc in properly. How do you know that? which side is facing the flywheel?

Agreed. But like i said- The Kaminari look was pretty decent, I just don't want the lip to extend THAT far. Granted- we're talking about a bolt-on lip, not a full bumper replacement. Someone photoshop a forward lip on the stock bumper, please?

My BOV stopped working not too long ago. Found out it was the vac line disconnected at the PS pump. That one becomes the hard line that crosses your lower timing cover, and feeds the entire vac rail.

Umm, personally, I'm not feeling the Haloween thing. Maybe for those travelling east to get to Commerce, we can meet up somewhere to roll in together?

Great work. Looking fwd to more pics.

Actually, i like stock, I just think it needs to be a bit more....macho.

PS- If you drop the boost, it'll lower the chances of detonation AND spark blowout, so it's NOT a decisive indicator of detonation or not. I doubt you're detonating at 15psi on a stock turbo. Also- make sure you have no shorting of your plug wires to ground. This has happened to me a few times...

Yeah, I've said it before- I think an aftermarket large core radiator is a great peace-of-mind upgrade. Any leaks in your cooling system will allow the coolant to boil over due to lack of system pressure. Also check the condition of the two 90 degree hoses- one on the front of the head, one on...

All MSD systems switch to single fire at higher rpms, IIRC. They may help with emissions and efficiency at low rpms.

Amen.

The Pacesetter was a crap design. I had two of them- one in black painted and one in ceramichrome. When the black one was installed, the mechnic found that the collector at the bottom necked-down internally to about 1.25 inches across! He cut it out and fabbed a new collector for me. The o2...

Although you say you've timed the cps correctly, I suggest you try starting it with the cps tightening bolt out. Try moving the cps to an extreme retard position, and then an extreme advance position, and see if that affects wether or not the engine 'catches'. If it starts, check the cps...

You mean- can the -89 wheel be replaced for an 89 wheel? Yes. But to get the cruise control buttons to work, i think you need the 89 combination switches also, as well as at least one splice for on/off into the dash switch harness.

Worn rod bearings, worn main bearings, low oil level, worn oil pump, weak oil pump bypass spring, weak oil squirter bolt springs, and as mentioned above, BHG. Have you checked the integrity of your oil- IE; is it just oil or now an oil-coolant mix?

You put the head on the block without the rear cover or the front cover? The rear cover(the one that shoulda been decked) HAS to be on the engine to run it. Just wanted to clarify that. As for removing it, machining, then reinstalling, it might be possible with the head on, if it was loosened...

LOL.... "this Tony guy..." ..."maybe he'll get sponsors"....LMFAO...

The cars have to be within a certain rpm range during the test, i beleive. What I've done before(and successfully), is to hook the vac reference line to the egr valve directly to the vac source off the throttle body, and bypass the vsv, thus providing some egr activity at all rpms. It actually...

Wondering if your egr is working. Sometimes the pressure reference line gets completely blocked with crapola. Happened to me. Test it per the tsrm.

I have the upper one, but no lower ones. Anybody got a pic of these installed?

Jutting out somewhat- like this. Pardon my hackjob in MS paint.