Search results

Good luck with that. Bent exterior, blown motor, shredded interior. You have a LOT of work ahead of you. I suggest you begin with one section of the car at a time. For example, begin with the body work. It'll require you to strip some of the interior, and that way you can replace bad interior...

Glad to hear that 16/12 is acceptable for street use. Makes me feel that 14/8 will be just fine for daily driving.

Well, I just purchased Megan Street coilovers. They should be here in a few days. I will take it for a quick drive once I finish my front and rear subframe upgrades- http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?154373-Project-Git-er-done-before-the-Mayans-come!-Stage-1...

While the rod is a more durable part than the cast piston, I would tell you that a single replacement new is only about $40, or you could buy a used one from the classified section here for even less.

Not too much new here, as I've been out of town. Currently at a bed & breakfast in Nantucket- it's a nice change. I did just order the Megan street coilovers, so hopefully, they'll get to my house in a few days, and I can post a few installed pics.

Yes, I did remove the locknut, and I did spray both front and rear with PB blaster and left it overnight, with ~500lbs outward tension on the shaft. No luck so far.

So, here's the welded and braced subframe. I used 1/4" plate steel on the inside face of the forward wall, and then welded in 1" seamless tubing. I've seen alot of guys go nuts with corner angle braces, and plate the entire forward hump, but I felt that this would be enough reinforcement for my...

Good progress. Keep the updates coming.

Seeing as you've lost compression in the #1 cylinder, and that where the timing cover is, we could suspect this as the cause. But it's not certain.

Today I brought the subframe to work, and repaired the crack, and also welded in a plate of steel and two tubular support braces, between the front and rear diff mount walls. I will have some pics tomorrow. The welds aren't pretty, so i need to smooth some of them out with my angle grinder, then...

Why do you say that? Sounds like he had less than .6mm total removed. I would think he could get by nicely with a 2mm head gasket.

The timing belt tensioner bolts through the rear timing cover, and to the block. Overtorquing it will actually 'pull on the #1 cylinder wall slightly, causing blowby. As Hvyman also mentioned- you should have had the rear timing cover bolted to the block when it was decked. If it wasn't, then...

Tomorrow, I bring the subframe to work, and will repair and reinforce it.

I admit- ther'e no money wasted in doing it this way, but it doesn't get the car any closer to completion. So without further ado, welcome to stage one! Plans are as follows: REAR: Remove rear subframe Repair cracks and reinforce Install Nylon/ rubber combo spacers Install ES suspension bushings...

***{{{ As of 12/11/2022, THIS THREAD IS NOW REPAIRED. ALL PICTURES HAVE BEEN RESTORED }}}*** Ok. It's been a LONG time since I've had a build thread. On my last thread, I really only got about a 3rd of the way towards my goals. I've owned my '88 na(now turbo) Supra since 1996, and in that...

Are you kidding? I can't believe this thread still exisist, let alone is still getting replies.

I would check to make sure you are getting spark for all 6 cylinders, because that's what it sounds like. And -you are able to swap motors, but don't own a $20 timing light??

If you listen to your video, you can hear the rod knock on the first start. Right around the first time it revs. Sorry to hear that you had to do so much more work to it, but it'll be even better now, when you're done. PS- What pistons are those?

Code 52 is your knock sensor code. I'm pretty sure you'll lose alot of power if you have that. Check both knock sensor plugs on the drivers side of the block, under the intake. One is on the side of cylinder #2, and the other is closer to the #6 cylinder, next to the starter.

I don't really know the answer to this- I would presume that the ecu assumes a high temp, thus disabling the cold start injector, making cold starts somewhat lean.