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There's the Bomex, and the Kaminari styles. You probably won't find a Kaminari style available, but people tend to prefer the Bomex style(Shine replica) more anyway. Kaminari: Bomex/Shineauto:

Well, the 22R had a flapper style airflow meter, something not even used on the 7mgte. Sometimes people mess with them on the NA's, but like metioned above, it wouldn't help with our cars.

Actually, I was going to tuck it all underneath, but wasn't sure it'd fit that way. Now I know. :) Oh, and I got these injectors for only 208 shipped, and they guy told me that four of the injectors were brand new and I believe it by the looks. Plus they all came with a new seals and o-rings.

So today out in the 95 degree, 90% humidity, I decided it would be a good idea to install some evo injectors I just picked up. Not much to it, just alot of disassembly, cutting, soldering, heat-shrinking, and reassembly. Getting started: I found that 3 of my 6 injector clips were...

Lol. And it wasn't Paul Newman- it was Jackie Gleason, I believe... Smoky & the Bandit. ps- Didn't even know you could put a TPS on backwards. :)

Just run the car at idle, have someone hold the throttle if you need to, in order to keep it running at a constant rpm. Spray carb cleaner using the included straw(for pinpoint accuracy), and spray a small amount towards each fuel injector, one at a time, to see if the dile changes. If not, also...

Even if your CEL isn't blinking, you still need to check for stored codes.

My plugs just arrived today- they're the quick release type, where you just push down on the bar, and it releases them. Also picked up some braided expandable wire loom as well, to cover the wires;

"Stick open"? Wtf? Then why did you tell me "Wrong, sorry" to this???

No, sounds like a different problem. Check for diagnostic codes, and also check for vac leaks, and check the connector to the ISCV. But I'm just shooting in the dark here.

Unplug your AFM, and plug it back in; if you're lucky, it's just a bad connection. If you're unlucky, it may be a bad AFM.

Everybody is right on target with their suggestions here. And like suprapowaz said- getting a good intake and exhaust will not get you to 350hp, but it will get you at least 30+hp over stock. Everyone is suggesting the 550's & Lexus MAF, as they are a proven power maker, but I also humbly...

If the wastegate is binding, that means it would be binding open, not closed. Otherwise he'd have boost creep or worse. You must mean to check to see if its not seating on the port- ie: the rod it's connected to has slipped so that the wastegate flapper is not aligned with its port. I could see...

:) Yeah, I got on of those ppp gaskets for the intake. Don't know if it does much, but it doesn't leak. I did have the bottom of my intake gasket blow out once; symptoms included hissing when accelerating lightly, normal driving behavior, but horrible idle. Since you haven't mentioned it yet, I...

A brand new radiator shroud is like $75. http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getLocator&siteid=213983&chapter=AMM805&appSectionid=8&groupid=20035&subgroupid=60549&componentid=0&make=34&model=Supra&year=1990&graphicID=F805025&callout=11&catalogid=1 I use an aftermarket...

I just picked up a set of 6 Evo 8 injectors today. You need Bosch EV-1 type connectors. I just got 6 on Ebay for $35 shipped.

Yup- I had that happen to me too. Sounds exactly like rodknock. As for changing the bearings, who knows? Kinda depends on what caused the rodknock. Oil starvation could have gouged the crank journals, an out-of-round rod end would have to be resized.

Could be that too, assuming that it's sticking open slightly. More reason to shim the wastegate.

Well, at least you are successful in narrowing down your search.

Did this suddenly just begin happening one day? And do you have any diagnistic codes? ~750-850rpm warm idle is pretty much ideal. Is it a steady idle, or is it stumbling up and down? As mentioned, check for vac leaks, such as any unplugged vac hoses, and spray carb cleaner strategically...