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First off , what type of race car is it going to be? (road racing, drag racing, ect.) Second, what are the rules? There are a lot of factors that come into figuring cost besides weather or not it is N/A of forced induction. I would totally forget about using a supercharger and focus more on...

Ian (IJ) is correct, they are not that expensive and you really should run one. If your oil cooler is very efficiant (not the case if it is a shitty one, but then why even bother in the first place), it will have no problem cooling the oil to much even with ambient temps in the 70's. The other...

they should be on the N/A harness. If not, I'd like to know how the N/A car would even start. they contain wiring that goes to the engine that are out of the realm of the ECU like the start wire, back up light wiring, heater control valve wiring, also things like tach signal to the dash, speed...

Yeah, as thick and heavy as they are, they probably are BP. I tried to get my buddy to bring over his surface to air missle battery to attach to the back of the car. The funny thing was when I was taking those pics, a cop happened to be driving my. That was quite interesting. I almost went...

Do you mean like this. (THE IQAR SUPRA) NOW TAKING ORDERS (get yours while they last)

You need a leakdown tester and a air compressor. The leakdown tester can be picked up at any Napa or Snap-on dealer. They are not to badly priced. If I recall, mine was around $60 at Napa.... They are fairly simple to use. They are a unit that is a block with 2 gauges on it. One is the in or...

actually it a good thing. the reason is is that your normal old run of the mill (not Honda or jaguar which is mineral oil based and are the same fliud) PS fluid and ATF are basically the same, the differance is that ATF (dextron) has anti-foaming agents in it and that is what makes it better for...

did you unhook the high pressure line from the pump or did you leave it hooked up and the pump in the chassis while swapping the motor? if you left the pump hooked up and just swapped the reservoir, then you should be fine as any air that got into the system with the reservoir unhooked will have...

it is highly unlikely that the timingbelt is your miss problem unless it has jumped a tooth, but even then I dont really see it causing a miss, just a slight lose of power maybe. Either which way, change it. on a side note while we are talking about timingbelts, I have yet to hear of anyone...

did you reuse the old pump and if so, I am assuming that you unhooked the lines and that is why you are bleeding it or did you also change the pump. one other thing, this may be a dumb question, but I have to ask, when you where turning the wheel lock to lock, you did have the motor running correct?

it normaly does drop. what were you doing that you had to bleed the system? have you driven the car since doing so and do you hear the pump growling?

no, it is a vane airflow meter (flap door style). The factory turbos use a Karman vortex unit.

yeah, braking is one of the main reasons as to why the front is stiffer. There is no perfect setup, everything is a compromise. what might be good for one condition might hurt you in another condition. you also pretty much have to increase the spring rate if you are lowering it inorder to keep...

Top mount IC's are a bad idea as when not in motion, that act as an "interheater" and heatsoak really bad from radiant heat from the engine. Mazda realised it, but Subaru didn't.

yeah, the oil does help the pin to slide easier. as for not having to heat them as mentioned previously well just depends on your particular case. I've had some that needed to be heated and others that didn't, I have even had new Toyota pistons that needed to be heated to be assembled and others...

it is urethane. I cant remember what its called, but there are a few fillers that are designed for use on urethane I know that 3M makes one or atleast did. just check with any good local body shop and ask them where you can get some at.

no, not yet anyways just a black one that was on the car when I bought it.

So when we pay for the shipping, we would just pay at the location that we take the item(s) to or do we need to pay you'll for the shipping?

sounds great! how exactly do we go about doing this? I might be wanting to take you'll up on this offer next week for a set of wheels that I might be selling to another SM member.

if you just grind the area that it is going to hit, you shouldn't have any problems if it is just one of the ridges that are on it and not into the main body of the housing. yeah, it may heat it a little. I would work at figuring out where to mount the remote setup an us it and run a normal oil...