Recent content by ncv6coupe

Go work under an Infiniti G37 and you will appreciate even more what Honda and Toyota used to do back in the day before the green wars. The new front and rear control arm bolts were coated though, they had the rainbow hue like 3p was explaining earlier. Really nice looking to match battle...

Cleaned threads, squirters and bolts to remove all residue, prayed, torqued and finishing putting oil pan etc. on. With the thread freshening from the first set that was installed, I've convinced myself that I'm good to go. Many of you have had success with them through the years so I'm not...

New bolts arrived, 2 of them already corroded so guess it's safe to say that no coating is applied to these bolts.

Yep those look exactly like the originals that I took out as well from my 87. There are very clear differences in machining between the newer style and these. I bought the same ones you did part number wise at least. I'm really hoping someone has some pics of the newer style that they removed...

What part number squirters did you get for your latest build? These ones came from the distrubution center in California. I think I read you guys down under have a different source for your parts.

Lol math rules the world. I'll mic the new ones and make something happen. This really got me thinking about my strategy when I put my car back together. I antiseized EVERY bolt in the chassis. Ordered all new subframe and control arm bolts except the long upper control arm bolts in front...

Yeah that's what I meant, I received uncoated, Home Depot quality bolts that all stretched, twisted and were ready to snap if I attempted to go any tighter. The original that I torqued 3 times and the new one is indeed in post #18. Two totally different bolts by design. The unknown negative...

Except the ones that were shipped to me. Is it safe to say I should not attempt to take these up to 18lb if I receive same bolt style on my new order? I'm going to try to borrow an inch/lb wrench from my buddy at the shop. I should have ordered 7 for worst case. I'm just going to ask tuner...

Way I understand it is zinc coating does provide a smidge extra strength to bolts. The bean counters in corporate got me beat this time.

10mm head, 10mm threads. The drilled out part with the ball and spring neck down to 8 or less. Which is where it's twisting. Don't have mic with me, I'm dropping at post office now to return. The originals and these might not be same metal material. I have picture a couple post up...

Ok I'm not going to lube them at all. I will Clean threads out and give it a go dry. I promise I'm not trying to go against the grain and can understand what everyone has stated to start fresh and trust the 18ft/lb is right. They just feel off when tightening, can't put it in words. Waiting...

Click free didn't mean stop turning all together, strange wording on my part. You are absolutely correct on ability to keep torquing on bolts after the click. This wasn't the case here. They just never got there. I've researched a bunch of bolt stretch theory since last weekend and found info...

Next round I'm putting loctite red and going to 10 on the beam wrench. Something is amiss here.

Pulled the other 5 out tonight. Getting 6 new ones. Yikes is all I can say. 4 registering 12-13 and 1 at 15. Didn't try to go higher.

Funny thing is I have three torque wrenches. The little 3/8" one clicks free before the half inch which has been used for months. Used a brand new wrench knowing how delicate these are. So it actually breaks free at less than spec from initial test or my half inch is worn and reads lower...