Recent content by LordLo

I agree. You should get a overbore and rehone. Don't know why the machine shop didn't call you and ask you.

Well to make things short, I forgot to tighten my pressure adjusting screw with the lock nut and drove my car around.... the vibration loosed them both up and now they are gone. I need replacements, yet no one seems to carry just the pressure adjusting screw and lock nut. =( Anyone...

Your better off with E85. :naughty:

Depends how you drive it. I can get 28 mpg on the freeway while my friend on the other hand can only manage 22 mpg.

I think it looks ok. Would probably look better in black. But again, I'd like to see a picture of the whole car rear and side shot. Hehe, it kinda reminds me of a Camaro though.

Well my MK3 supra just got more rare! :naughty: But eh, if I was working at a dealership... why would it matter if the car ran? It's going to be crushed anyway.

I am running one, but the T4 .84 V-band version, it's been on for 3 years so far. Only complaint is that it lags a bit more than the small ct26, full boost at ~4k rpm.

True. And even for those "famed" bulletproof 1jz engines; they can be crapshots. A friend bought a 1jz front clip, swapped it all in. Didn't change a single gasket.... only to find the headgasket was somehow blown. Never ran right and eventually sold the car to some poor soul who revved it...

I just smogged my car. In oregon we don't put it in gear, just idle and rev up to 3000 rpm and hold it. HC- Max 236 Detected- 36 CO- Max 1 Detected- 0.1 CO2- No limit Detected- 12 Note: I kinda cheated though... filled up on E85 before I smogged. :sarcasm: Mods: T4, 550cc, 40 psi fuel...

Just get a honda civic. Great on gas! Reliable! :naughty: I'd never buy a flipped car; might look fine on the outside, but the body is probably all tweaked up a few inches here and there. Will probably need more than a grand to straighten up the entire body, body work, and paint. (By...

Don't matter. Just drive it like normal and don't boost it. Retorque it on the weekend. And yeah, just put a socket on the crank. Move it to allow access to the studs; easy.

I had to retorque mine. I didn't retorque the first time and I blew the headgasket at a tiny 10 psi. When I replaced the hg again, a few of the nuts had loosened. Maybe I did something wrong, but I followed the directions and used their moly grease so my conclusion is that they need to get...

Well my 7mge fuel pump which was run on my 7mgte had 180k miles on it. And yep, before I removed it I was able to hit 60 psi of base fuel pressure too at 9v; the walbro on the other hand can't unless I bump it up to 12v.

Well guys I guess it's normal. At idle the fuel pump only gets 9v so it can't flow enough fuel to support 40+ psi. At WOT, the fuel pump switches to about 12v so it has no problem flowing. I also had a buddy who has mk3 supra with the same setup (stock wiring, walbro, aeromotive afpr). He...

Well it's supposed to be set at 40 psi with the vac line off; but the thing here is that the gauge just bounces from 40-43 if say, I try to set it to 50 psi. I know it's not necessary to run 50 psi of base fuel pressure, but the fact that I can't set it there at idle means there is something...