Wow! today sucked. What do I need to do a full rebuild?

[jsnowman76]

I have been searching through threads for a hour now and can't find exactly what I'm looking for. Is there some sort of check list of things that need to be done or should be considered when I pull the motor.

I got a really bad scare today when I fired the car up. it ran great for 20 min then when I lifted the hood. it was steaming really bad just behind the 3000 pipe and along the valve cover seal on the exhaust side. the temp gauge was over the double reds!

it scared the shit out of me so I shut the car off and started looking for a culprit. it was bubbling steam from the valve cover and it sounded like it was gulping coolant down so immediatly I was like :cry: ::bhg:: and I freaked out so I let the car cool down and then pulled the #1 plug and there was oil everywhere in the spark plug galley and it was boiling. so WTF is that about.

I don't think it is a bhg because there is no smoke at all and there is no milkshake on the car and there is no waterfall sound but my coolant does seem to disappear sometimes. but well see in a couple of days.


so, sorry for the long post, but here is what I am asking, Is there some sort of check list of things that need to be done or should be considered when I pull the motor to do a complete rebuild. I have some money but not 10g's so what kind of price tag am I looking at. I know the motor isnt toast yet but the used lot that I got it from had no idea about any of the maintenance that was ever done on it so I want to make sure that if im gonna pull the motor Im going to do it right and that I wont have any problems for a while.

 

[Kai]

Check the hose at the back of the head - that one popped on me and i didnt even notice it

 

[2543arvin]

the price tag will vary with what your goals will be for your supra, im doing a "full rebuild" and my tag is gonna cost me around $6k, but i have fairly high goals for my car, so in an effort to not clutter up this thread with my rebuild, let me know if you want me to pm you with my list.

i dont that you have to worry about spending 10 grand unless you are going for something like a race setup, these cars arent that expensive to mod, so it shouldnt hurt you too bad, but like i said, it depends on your expectations of the 7m.

 

[jsnowman76]

anything else?

 

[Kai]

Right to do a headgasket isnt expensive, you just need the right tools and a gasket kit. However, you might as well do a proper job on it. Replace the bearings, because even a miniscule amount of water in the oil can cause damage.

Bearing set with thrust washers, gasket kit and a set of pistons with rings off ebay set me back just under $200 (excluding shipping). Get your block bored 20 thou over (£15 a bore for me, with hone), and your crank polished (£90 for me), install new bearings, new pistons & rings, new gaskets and you're all ready to go. Of course, this is only if you're running stock boost, or no more than about 12psi.

 

[jsnowman76]

$200 for pistons...???? really? the cheapest I found were like $700. how's the quality?

 

[Idealsupra]

$200 for pistons...???? really? the cheapest I found were like $700. how's the quality?

stock....or worse .... you were probably looking at forged pistons..

 

[rs4rush]

Im thinkin ebay pistons are not all what their cracked up to be! I would spend my money on somthing a bit better than 200 ebay specials.

 

[skim1040]

You can do some testing, I.E. leakdown, etc. to check for other issues after your overheating. Check the oil, see if there is coolant in it *should look something similar to chocolate milk if theres coolant present*

If it is a HG, then you'll need:
New HG...duh
Head bolts and/or studs *depends on what you want to do with the car*
Head decked, resurfaced
and some time/money

 

[2543arvin]

Head bolts and/or studs *depends on what you want to do with the car*

without a doubt, choose studs over bolts....doesnt matter what you want to do with the car

 

[skim1040]

without a doubt, choose studs over bolts....doesnt matter what you want to do with the car

Ehh, I beg to differ.

If you just plan on doing the HG and leaving it alone for a while..then bolts are fine.

Studs are generally used if you plan on taking the head on and off multiple times

 

[starscream5000]

^Or if you want a more even load or want to reused them too . Also, pay no attention to the comment of getting bigger pistons, they are not needed until you take the engine to a machinist and they deem it is necessary.

 

[Idealsupra]

Ehh, I beg to differ.

If you just plan on doing the HG and leaving it alone for a while..then bolts are fine.

Studs are generally used if you plan on taking the head on and off multiple times

what? :nono:

you know what the bolts ARE for? they are for the mechanics who like to take off the valve covers take out the stock bolts use a hoist and lift the head up just enough to slide the hg out from in between....then put a new one in and then use the bolts to torque it down....lol

studs are the better option PERIOD. they put the clamping force in the correct spot and if torque sequenced properly they dont need retorquing down the road.

the studs are better period my friend.

 

[jsnowman76]

Also, pay no attention to the comment of getting bigger pistons, they are not needed until you take the engine to a machinist and they deem it is necessary.

can you tell me what exactly the bigger pistons are for. raise compression ratio? I see a lot of people going with 20 over pistons when they rebuild.

 

[2543arvin]

can you tell me what exactly the bigger pistons are for. raise compression ratio? I see a lot of people going with 20 over pistons when they rebuild.

boring the block isnt to get more power, but to ensure that the cylinder walls are like new, and going only .020 over, it leaves room for more rebuilds as opposed to boring your block .040 or .060 over.

sorry if that sounds confusing, maybe someone else on here can explain with more appropriate vocabulary.

 

[Idealsupra]

boring the block isnt to get more power, but to ensure that the cylinder walls are like new, and going only .020 over, it leaves room for more rebuilds as opposed to boring your block .040 or .060 over.

sorry if that sounds confusing, maybe someone else on here can explain with more appropriate vocabulary.

yeah...it also adds a BIT more displacement... the stock bore is 83mm a .040 over would make it 84mm. its changes compression ratio and has the snowball type effect lol...

but yes going 20 over is a good idea if you can in case you need to go back in for something later on

 

[jsnowman76]

thanks for the help. I think this winter I have some saving to do because I would like to do a full rebuild or go 1jz which is something that I hadn't considered til last night.

It seems that a full rebuild vs. a 1jz swap with parts will be about the same price wise and probably comprable in time invested so I have some thinking to do.

I have been doing some reading on the 1jz swap and rebuilds so if you have anymore info or an opinion on which route to take it would help.

 

[2543arvin]

thanks for the help. I think this winter I have some saving to do because I would like to do a full rebuild or go 1jz which is something that I hadn't considered til last night.

It seems that a full rebuild vs. a 1jz swap with parts will be about the same price wise and probably comprable in time invested so I have some thinking to do.

I have been doing some reading on the 1jz swap and rebuilds so if you have anymore info or an opinion on which route to take it would help.

i will always be in love with the 7m....

 

[Idealsupra]

thanks for the help. I think this winter I have some saving to do because I would like to do a full rebuild or go 1jz which is something that I hadn't considered til last night.

It seems that a full rebuild vs. a 1jz swap with parts will be about the same price wise and probably comprable in time invested so I have some thinking to do.

I have been doing some reading on the 1jz swap and rebuilds so if you have anymore info or an opinion on which route to take it would help.

thats a horrible comparison....

lets see 30-60k miles USED AND ABUSED engine that you dont know what youre getting or how badly its been neglected..... OR a freshly built you know exactly about every inch of it brand new 7m.... tough choice :nono:

 

[2543arvin]

thats a horrible comparison....

lets see 30-60k miles USED AND ABUSED engine that you dont know what youre getting or how badly its been neglected..... OR a freshly built you know exactly about every inch of it brand new 7m.... tough choice :nono:

i wasnt gonna be THAT blunt, but yeah, i think he gets the idea now.....shouldnt be any other questions then. let us know how it goes rebuilding your 7M....:evil2: