Won't start :(

[ill Z]

Well, I just finished filling up my radiator with a 50/50 mix and i tried starting my car after I put the engine back together. I found a few misc leaks(drain cock on block was a tad loose and the FPR as well on the fuel rail). Noticing that fuel came out of the FPR both front and rear of the fuel rail. I'm going to say it's safe to assume she's gettings fuel into the fuel rail at least, beyond the injectors? I don't know how to tell at this point. I verified I have spark on cylinders 1 and 2. Ignition seems to be doing it's job very well. My fiance did notice the distributor rotor was not seated correctly and fixed it up(prior to testing cylinder 1 and 2 for spark). At this point I have no idea what to check next other than the diagnostics codes. I'm not even sure if the car has any and I'm searching the apartment for a paperclip now to rig it up and check. I'll be browsing the forums for any suggestions/advice any experienced 7M owner can give me at this time. I'd love to get her to crank asap, although she's not street legal yet, I need my garage to change my fiances oil and tune up before she heads to Dallas(3 hours away from home).
Thanks in Advance,

Eli

 

[supra4ever68]

afm not connected?? it is pretty important and people do forget

 

[AJ'S 88NA]

Well, I just finished filling up my radiator with a 50/50 mix and i tried starting my car after I put the engine back together. I found a few misc leaks(drain cock on block was a tad loose and the FPR as well on the fuel rail). Noticing that fuel came out of the FPR both front and rear of the fuel rail. I'm going to say it's safe to assume she's gettings fuel into the fuel rail at least, beyond the injectors? I don't know how to tell at this point. I verified I have spark on cylinders 1 and 2. Ignition seems to be doing it's job very well. My fiance did notice the distributor rotor was not seated correctly and fixed it up(prior to testing cylinder 1 and 2 for spark). At this point I have no idea what to check next other than the diagnostics codes. I'm not even sure if the car has any and I'm searching the apartment for a paperclip now to rig it up and check. I'll be browsing the forums for any suggestions/advice any experienced 7M owner can give me at this time. I'd love to get her to crank asap, although she's not street legal yet, I need my garage to change my fiances oil and tune up before she heads to Dallas(3 hours away from home).
Thanks in Advance,

Eli

If you are getting spark, is it sparking at the right time. Verify the timing is correct or at least close. Check to see that #1 is TDC, I take the plug out and put a pencil in the hole and watch as I turn the crank. Then take the distributor cap off and see were the rotor is pointed. Should be at #1 wire. And the crank pully should line up close to the timing marks on the front cover. If it's pointing the oppsite way then you are 180 out.

 

[ill Z]

Supra4ever68,

AFM is connect, I wish it were that simple.

AJ,

I'll verify timing tonight after work. Is it safe to turn the crank to align everything? I'm somewhat nervous about doing so(I know I did it when I took the head off this time around it's a little more scary where I have new internals). I was thinking in bed last night as well, "how do I know my timing isn't off?" I guess that also brings me to another question, how do I know the distributor is firing in the correct sequence? Once timing is aligned I'll be able to pull the distributor assembly and verify it's lined up. Is there a possibility my distributor cap is installed wrong and the cylinders are firing out of order due to this? I was under the impression the dist. cap only fits one way. Something else I need to look at when I get home tonight.

 

[AJ'S 88NA]

Supra4ever68,

AFM is connect, I wish it were that simple.

AJ,

I'll verify timing tonight after work. Is it safe to turn the crank to align everything? I'm somewhat nervous about doing so(I know I did it when I took the head off this time around it's a little more scary where I have new internals). I was thinking in bed last night as well, "how do I know my timing isn't off?" I guess that also brings me to another question, how do I know the distributor is firing in the correct sequence? Once timing is aligned I'll be able to pull the distributor assembly and verify it's lined up. Is there a possibility my distributor cap is installed wrong and the cylinders are firing out of order due to this? I was under the impression the dist. cap only fits one way. Something else I need to look at when I get home tonight.

Yeah the cap only goes on one way but you could still have the distributor in wrong. When you put the timming belt on did you make sure the marks on the cams lined up with the marks on the timing cover, and the #1 was TDC? If so then it shouldn't be a problem turning the crank by hand. You've already tried to turn it over right?

 

[ill Z]

Yes everything was aligned correctly upon installation. That is the odd part, after cranking i noticed she was (estimated)5 degrees negative(opposite side of the zero that has no markings). I readjusted my Timing Belt several times last night and it keeps getting off with the timing, I don't know what's going on now she's sitting on the between the 5 and the zero(estimating at 4 degrees positive). I am really getting nervous because a few times i heard a clunking sound, I'm hoping it was just my Throttle body slamming shut and not my valves hitting the pistons. It would rarely make the "clunk" sound, only after i stop turning the key in the ignition. Is there a trick to aligning the timing and adjusting the Timing Belt? I can't understand how I keep aligning the cams and crank and then its off again after I try to crank it.

I did turn the crank by hand(obviously if I made several attempts to readjust the timing). It was fairly easy to do. From what I recall I installed the distributor correctly. I will remove and reinstall it tonight one more time just to be on the safe side.

 

[AJ'S 88NA]

Yes everything was aligned correctly upon installation. That is the odd part, after cranking i noticed she was (estimated)5 degrees negative(opposite side of the zero that has no markings). I readjusted my Timing Belt several times last night and it keeps getting off with the timing, I don't know what's going on now she's sitting on the between the 5 and the zero(estimating at 4 degrees positive). I am really getting nervous because a few times i heard a clunking sound, I'm hoping it was just my Throttle body slamming shut and not my valves hitting the pistons. It would rarely make the "clunk" sound, only after i stop turning the key in the ignition. Is there a trick to aligning the timing and adjusting the Timing Belt? I can't understand how I keep aligning the cams and crank and then its off again after I try to crank it.

I did turn the crank by hand(obviously if I made several attempts to readjust the timing). It was fairly easy to do. From what I recall I installed the distributor correctly. I will remove and reinstall it tonight one more time just to be on the safe side.

You don't adjust the timing with the timing belt. You adjust the timing with the distributor. We need to back up here. Crank it over by hand( 19mm socket on crank pulley) Don't try crank it over with the starter until you have everything lined up. I thought I mentioned that, to turn it over by hand. If the timing belt keeps changing then it is not adjusted right. It's slipping teeth or its completly out of wack. I think you haven't got the cams lined up right in time with the crank. You have to search here on the TSSM to find out how to adjust the belt. Or use the search button at the top of the page and put in Timing belt adjustment. It will take you to a thread on it.
After you do that properly then check your distributor and TDC to see were it's at, should be pointed to #1 wire, if not you have to pull out the distributor enough to turn the rotor to #1. Your timing marks on the crank pulley should be close to the marks on the bottom cover. Then it might start as long as everything lines up, marks on camshaft gears should be lined up on the notches at the top, #1 piston at TDC, rotor pointed at #1 wire, and pulley mark close to 0 or a little before 0. After it starts you have to time it with a timing light, 10 deg. is stock you can go up to 14-deg advance but I'd try 10 to start.

 

[ill Z]

I took a break this weekend, fiance was pissed I'm spending more time on the car than with her. I have to clean up in the garage tonight, I hate working with a mess. Then I'm going to get back on the ball. Thanks for the help, I'll try that which you mentioned and report so you know how things turn out. Thanks for the help AJ.

 

[AJ'S 88NA]

I took a break this weekend, fiance was pissed I'm spending more time on the car than with her. I have to clean up in the garage tonight, I hate working with a mess. Then I'm going to get back on the ball. Thanks for the help, I'll try that which you mentioned and report so you know how things turn out. Thanks for the help AJ.

No problem, just hope we can help you get her running. Sounds like you have the same problem that many other supra owners have.Check out the thread in general diss. Supra haters.:biglaugh:

 

[mkiiSupraMan18]

^ What he said. Make sure that your timing belt tensioner pulley is tight if the timing keeps jumping around on you, thats an easy thing to forget to tighten, I've done it.

 

[AlbanyAng]

I am really getting nervous because a few times i heard a clunking sound, I'm hoping it was just my Throttle body slamming shut and not my valves hitting the pistons.

Just to relieve your worries the 7M-GE's are non-intereference engines - I had the same concerns while doing my 1st BHG job (BTW still in progress).
Checkout this TSRM link: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=EM&P=3
Follow AJ'S 88NA's advice - it is pretty much what I did to get mine running. On my 1st try I had the distributor in wrong and couldn't get her to start - pulled it, aligned to the mark and she started on the 1st try. Good Luck!

 

[ill Z]

First off huge thank you to AJ for the help. It was timing. She lives now.

So i picked up a 50 dollar timing light at Autozone today, has an anolog knob and a button to make it light up. From what I can judge, when the crank marker is lined up at the 0 on the timing cover. My timing light reads between 18-20 degrees. Now when the crank marker is lined up near the 10 on the timing cover, my timing light reads damn near 10 degrees. According to Haynes, this means my car is runing correctly? Reason i ask is because I have never made these adjustments before and I don't know where to go from here. Thanks

 

[f00g00]

It sounds like you bought a "dial back to zero" timing light.
You connect to number one shoot the strobe at the crank and dial the "analog knob" till the crank reads 0, then check what you dialed it to which you said was 18-20. The second reading is still 18-20 cause you dialed it to 10 and it read 10 on the mark.
You should set the distibutor to max 15 when you dial it to 0 and make sure you have T and E1 shorted in the diagnostics plug.

 

[ill Z]

It sounds like you bought a "dial back to zero" timing light.
You connect to number one shoot the strobe at the crank and dial the "analog knob" till the crank reads 0, then check what you dialed it to which you said was 18-20. The second reading is still 18-20 cause you dialed it to 10 and it read 10 on the mark.
You should set the distibutor to max 15 when you dial it to 0 and make sure you have T and E1 shorted in the diagnostics plug.

Cool, I did not short the T and E1 on the diag connector while checking timing. How crucial is this?

 

[AJ'S 88NA]

First off huge thank you to AJ for the help. It was timing. She lives now.

So i picked up a 50 dollar timing light at Autozone today, has an anolog knob and a button to make it light up. From what I can judge, when the crank marker is lined up at the 0 on the timing cover. My timing light reads between 18-20 degrees. Now when the crank marker is lined up near the 10 on the timing cover, my timing light reads damn near 10 degrees. According to Haynes, this means my car is runing correctly? Reason i ask is because I have never made these adjustments before and I don't know where to go from here. Thanks

Yeah make sure to get the initial timing right.

As foogoo said jumper the "T and E1". That takes out the ecu timing. Stock is 10 degrees. You can bump it up to 12 deg. or so, it will give you a little more throttle responce, not over 15 deg.

I have the same type timing light and it can show you how much time the ECU is adding after you take the jumper off. Just leave the light on and turn the dial to get the strobe to show zero on the crank and read the dial. That should be how much total timing you have.:icon_bigg

Don't forget to tighten your distributor bolt and check it again, sometimes it will change a little after tightening.

 

[ill Z]

First off huge thank you to AJ....and EVERYONE ELSE for the help!!!! It was timing. She lives now.

So i picked up a 50 dollar timing light at Autozone today, has an anolog knob and a button to make it light up. From what I can judge, when the crank marker is lined up at the 0 on the timing cover. My timing light reads between 18-20 degrees. Now when the crank marker is lined up near the 10 on the timing cover, my timing light reads damn near 10 degrees. According to Haynes, this means my car is runing correctly? Reason i ask is because I have never made these adjustments before and I don't know where to go from here. Thanks

 

[AJ'S 88NA]

Cool, I did not short the T and E1 on the diag connector while checking timing. How crucial is this?

You have to get the initial timing right by shorting T and E1 or your timing will be off, could be very crucial.

 

[ill Z]

Okay cool I will redo the timing again. I wanted to check here first to see what everyone responded with, so far she runs, a bit rough just due to idling(timing i would say . I also have a fuel leak. Going to check everything out in the daytime.