Will 1jz stock valvetrain suit BC 264's?

kamikazemkiii

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Wassup guys, I have a set of BC 264's for my 1jz I want to know if its safe for me to run these cams with the STOCK 1jz valvetrain setup? Im not planning on revving over 7500 (not unless I should?). I've read using bigger than 264's its suggested to change out the spring/retainers. Im looking for 600whp on E85 but will the stock valves hold the power?
 

86_sports_1jz

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Aug 27, 2006
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i've read alot on here about people who are able to run small core 272s or 264s with stock valve train. as long as they aren't the large core 272s it should be ok... i think most of them don't rev past 8k but there are a few who rev to 8.5k with stock valve train and 264s
 

kamikazemkiii

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Whats the difference between the large and small cores? Im assuming I should be okay up to 7500. Since your a 1jz owner have you upgraded the head? if so what have you done? what hp are you making with that 70mm? and how high do you rev?

Thanks
 

86_sports_1jz

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Aug 27, 2006
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my car is down at the moment but when it was running i only reved up to 7200 rpms cuz i don't have anything in the head upgraded except for 2jz cams and i was tunning on a safc2... on 20lbs i made some where in the mid 400s over 430 for sure cuz thats where my car cutout on the dyno and since then i've been having problems, when my car cutout i still had a couple thousand rpms left before redline... as for the small core and largre core i'm not too sure but i think its just the size of the core. for example from what i've read small core 272s are actually 264s and large core 272s are 272s, like the bc 264s are small core 272s and i believe the jun or hks are large core 272s but i'm not 100% so hopefully some one will chime in on it
 

te72

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I've been running my setup for about 16 months now, as a daily driver. BC264 cams, ported and polished head, every other piece on the engine that isn't the exhaust piping is 100% stock. Does just fine, I believe my rev limiter is set around 7200 (engine/trans is a 92 JZA70), but I'm pretty sure I saw it sitting at ~7500 during a highway pull with a couple friends' Supras. Not 100% positive of that, but you'll be fine with the stock valves and these cams. Not a bad idea to freshen up the stem seals and cam seals while you're at it. Oh, and chances are you'll have to re-shim it to get things into spec, unless you're a big fan of clackety motors. ;)
 

kamikazemkiii

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Thanks for the info, I was counting on the valve stem seals and re shimming just to get it in spec. Whats the stock intake and exhaust clearances supposed to be?
 

te72

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That, I do not remember. I'm not the one who did the work on my head (precision isn't exactly my forté) but I do remember that only 3 of the shims were able to be re-used, and only one of them was good to go in it's original spot...
 

JPsToyota

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That's alot of money in shims! Not looking forward to that! ^

I've been worrying about this also. I have valvetrain taken apart and I was personally considering getting the Crower spring/retainer kit to use with the stock cams for now. This would give me a fresh set of springs and the ability to toss in some new cams later when I have a bit more money and can find a good deal on a cam set.

I'm all for the reusing of parts, but the valvesprings in a 1J are about 20 years old... seems like they would be pretty tired and might not be quite up to over-revving a larger cam, or maybe even the stock ones. You would think common sense would say something that has been flexing 20 times a second for 20 years must have some decent level of fatigue, no matter what material it's made out of.
I don't know, it's been worrying me as I get closer to putting everything back together. I'm going to check them for any "lean" tonight, which I've read can be a decent indicator of the fatigue of a spring.

I still haven't decided what I'm going to do, maybe this thread will make me feel good enough about it to re-use the stock setup.
 

kamikazemkiii

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when rebuilding my 7m with around 120k miles I used a valve spring compressor to make sure the spring were in spec all checked out good, since most 1jz come from lower mileage cars hopefully they are good aswell.
 

te72

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JPsToyota;1671792 said:
That's alot of money in shims! Not looking forward to that! ^

...seems like they would be pretty tired and might not be quite up to over-revving a larger cam, or maybe even the stock ones.

I don't remember what all the shims cost, I think my friend got them at the Toyota dealer he used to work for, or had a handful of them sitting at his shop at home, not real sure. But for what it's worth, I wouldn't bother revving the stock cams past the stock redline, have you seen many dyno graphs of them? They kinda fall on their face around 6k last I remember...
 

Bobbyt5408

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This is an interesting thread..... i have an 88 with a 1j single turbo setup. Im running a mines racing ECU with all the bells and whistels.... now i have stock valve train and i can hit 8200 rpm no problem all day (the setup is 5 years old) but like te72 said i lose my power at a little over 7k, my next upgrade is to go witha larger cam/turbo setup to push my power pand closer to the 8k rpm mark, cause as of now my old journal bearing turbo is very tired and isnt gettin full boost till almost 4k (its a percision t4 .64 a/r) :(..... Maybe what im trying to do is a terrible idea? but ive been driving the car regularly for 2 years now and it shows no weakness at all so im not really scared to push it some more.... A little input would be great :)
 

kamikazemkiii

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Ive read somewhere that the stock cams are good till 6000rpm, 264's till 7000, and 272's should be good till 8000. I believe it was one of the BC group buy threads, Wish I could remember but I can't.
 

87M-GTE

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kamikazemkiii;1676142 said:
Ive read somewhere that the stock cams are good till 6000rpm, 264's till 7000, and 272's should be good till 8000. I believe it was one of the BC group buy threads, Wish I could remember but I can't.

Thats just a general rule of thumb, for example stock cams fall off after 7K, 264 will make power til maybe almost 8K and so on..
I have 264s (not installed yet) I think this is the best option for performance/drivability/etc

Sam
 

te72

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If my dyno sheet is to be believed, power doesn't fall off with stock ~7200 redline with the 264's:

p1677269_1.jpg
 

suprahero

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kamikazemkiii;1670253 said:
Whats the stock intake and exhaust clearances supposed to be?


Intake is .008 and the exhaust is .010
I had the stock springs and retainers in my car for over two years making right at six hundred. I've since installed the upgraded springs and retainers. My car quits making power at about seven grand with the 272 small core cams. I'm sure it's because of my timing. I don't have it ramping up like a lot of guys do. I'm to big of a pansy to raise it too high without having any sort of knock control on it.
 

RacerXJ220

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Using 2JZ guys as examples, stock springs are fine with upgraded cams (any it seems) until you go with larger turbos with the cams deep into boost. That's going to make a difference in deciding who is going to "need" springs, and who isn't.
 

te72

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mr2thomas;1681741 said:
te72, what engine mods and boost are you running on that dyno chart? i like this alot!

johnd;1681762 said:
I'd like to know what turbo your using also?

Power number was at the top there, only 320rwhp. Still on stock twins, that was at 12psi because I couldn't figure out how to set up the boost controller to run 15-16 at that lower elevation. Only mods are the BC264 cams, a port and polish, and 3" turbo back exhaust. Even had the silencer on the Blitz in when I dyno'd, not sure what extra power *might* have been there if I had removed it. Hell, I'm still on the stock air box. :p