Why is my New Clutch Slipping - proper break-in

kmfdmk

Old School Cool
Very fresh XTD 12lb Flywheel (used for very very short time, still can see machine marks from manufacture) It was cleaned prior to install and no oily hands touched it.
2008_06_05_04.sized.jpg

Stage III 6-puck Ceramic Action Clutch, supposedly good to 500rwhp
2008_06_05_01.sized.jpg

2800lb Pressure Plate (new with clutch)
2008_06_05_11.sized.jpg


I'm having issues with the clutch slipping when rolling into the throttle heavy. Especially in 3rd, 4th, & 5th. Anytime past about 3700 rpm (and around 4.5 to 5lbs boost) when heavy sudden application of throttle the clutch slips, till about 5000 to 5500 and then grabs again. Sharp acceleration or smooth quick roll-in of the throttle causes this.

A slow gradual application of throttle will let the clutch still hold.

I've already adjusted the clutch pedal as recommended by the vendor. Pedal was fine where it was with its' stock adjustment, however I gave myself a bit more leeway and made sure there wasn't any preload on the clutch master cylinder.

I installed the clutch, PP, Flywheel, all at the same time with my fresh motor. The break-in period for my motor was greater than that of the clutch. I didn't crack past about 2/3 throttle till about 900 to 950 miles on the engine & drivetrain.

Trying to figure out why a brand new setup is slipping. Once I get this straightened out I can get it tuned. Clutch holds fine to normal and daily driving requirements, just when needing to very hard accelerate it'll slip.

Only two things I can think of are:

1) the PP to Flywheel bolts (which were torqued down may have backed off)
2) the flywheel, though used may not have enough thickness and may be under-spec for friction surface thickness.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.
 

heavydrifter

New Member
Mar 5, 2008
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St. louis
Hmmm.... yeah then it probably is your Flywheel. I hear XTD stuff is crap.

Otherwise I cant think of anything. How much horsepower are you pushing?
 

kmfdmk

Old School Cool
kabanimk3supra;1164131 said:
are you sure you didn't get grease on the flywheel?

My buddy James installed the Clutch & PP onto the flywheel which I installed. I am positive I didn't get grease on the flywheel, and he's knowledgable enough that I trust that he didn't get grease on the Clutch or PP.

I did clean the flywheel with a rag and rubbing alcohol to ensure that any surface residue was removed.
 

kmfdmk

Old School Cool
heavydrifter;1164136 said:
Hmmm.... yeah then it probably is your Flywheel. I hear XTD stuff is crap.

Otherwise I cant think of anything. How much horsepower are you pushing?

Right now it's a fully built 7M-GTE on a .57 trim CT26 w/ 550's & MAFT-Pro. It's as of yet un-tuned. My guess is that it's somewhere around the 250hp to 280hp range. It's fun, but it's annoying as hell that the clutch is slipping.

I'll be getting in contact with the vendor tomorrow to see what he suggests (I trust him).

Perhaps pulling the clutch, flywheel, & PP having them inspected by my machine shop and possible resurfaced.

Any thoughts on the idea of trying to resurface them simply with like a 3M Scotch-Brite brillo pads & a drill (in a random pattern of course?)
 

Poodles

I play with fire
Jul 22, 2006
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Fort Worth, TX
Milage on a clutch is kinda pointless, it's constant use of it that breaks it in.

Going on a roadtrip for a 1000 miles in one gear and never shifting won't break the clutch in.

Also, I wouldn't trust ANYTHING from XTD, I bet the backstep isn't in spec...

I have the same clutch and love it, mods are in sig and boost is right under fuel cut...
 

heavydrifter

New Member
Mar 5, 2008
52
0
0
St. louis
kmfdmk;1164140 said:
Right now it's a fully built 7M-GTE on a .57 trim CT26 w/ 550's & MAFT-Pro. It's as of yet un-tuned. My guess is that it's somewhere around the 250hp to 280hp range. It's fun, but it's annoying as hell that the clutch is slipping.

I'll be getting in contact with the vendor tomorrow to see what he suggests (I trust him).

Perhaps pulling the clutch, flywheel, & PP having them inspected by my machine shop and possible resurfaced.

Any thoughts on the idea of trying to resurface them simply with like a 3M Scotch-Brite brillo pads & a drill (in a random pattern of course?)

Yeah I would have it inspected. Then have the flywheel resurfaced while you have it out and inspect it for hot spots. And inspect your clutch.
 

kmfdmk

Old School Cool
heavydrifter;1164136 said:
Hmmm.... yeah then it probably is your Flywheel. I hear XTD stuff is crap.

Otherwise I cant think of anything. How much horsepower are you pushing?

Poodles;1164159 said:
Milage on a clutch is kinda pointless, it's constant use of it that breaks it in.

Going on a roadtrip for a 1000 miles in one gear and never shifting won't break the clutch in.

Also, I wouldn't trust ANYTHING from XTD, I bet the backstep isn't in spec...

I have the same clutch and love it, mods are in sig and boost is right under fuel cut...

I'll look into getting another Flywheel if the inspection turns sour (about the flywheel). I'm assuming the the backstep info can be found in the MKIII TSRM (onilne?). and iis the distance from the crank surface to where the back of the flywheel should be (or would it be the friction surface on the front?)

As for proper break-in, I understand highway miles are an innappropriate break-in method. The majority of break-in and following miles were city driving making use of the clutch. Right now I've about 1500 to 1600 miles on the drivetrain and it's still doing the same thing it did 600 miles ago (slipping under boost).

As for other flywheels I have heard some people didn't like the Fidanza due to warpage of the friction plates. Has anyone here had issues with those? (Yes yes I know I will search that momentarily).
 

92TealSupra

Supramania's Parts Man
Sep 2, 2008
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XTD again is not a very good brand, you will run into problems, and I am sure ti was a 'good price' but sometimes spending the extra money saves you...

If I were you I would pull it and inspect it, I am curious to see your findings.
 

ForcedTorque

Join the 92 Owners Group
Jul 11, 2005
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I had an XTD and loved it, but that was long before anything but intake and exhaust. I'd go to CKandersons store A2motorsports (I think), and get an ACT disc for like $139, and swap those out. Then, go with some sort of other PP, as the XTD is painted stock.
 

Poodles

I play with fire
Jul 22, 2006
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Fort Worth, TX
That's the runout Grim (warpage)

They don't have a spec for the backstep, the shop I took mine to had a book that told them what it should be...

Also, his flwheel is XTD, the clutch itself is a Action Stage 3 from Driftmotion (like I have)
 

GrimJack

Administrator
Dec 31, 1969
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idriders.com
Poodles;1164680 said:
Yeah, dunno why the TSRM doesn't cover it...

But then again, it's much like high performance brake pads, many of the clutches we use will wear the flywheel while the stock clutch would just wear the disk.

It's refered to as the flywheel "step."

Found some info here: http://www.rebuiltautoengines.com/toyota-articles.html

It's not enough though, wish I could find the spec...
For what it's worth, I measured my RPS flywheel, it's 0.65mm +/- 0.03mm.