What to use for datalogging AF Ratios? (ZT-2 or LC-1)

[Fubar231]

Ok, so right now i have a AEM UEGO, but can't really datalog with it. Even if i do make a serial cable, what good is AF ratios without RPM? I have no plans of getting a AEM EMS so forget that as a option.

Ok, now im looking at either the Innovate LC-1

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/lc1.php

or the Zeitronix ZT-2

http://www.zeitronix.com/Products/zt2/zt2.htm

I know the zeitronix runs about 280$, without gauge, and i can get a LC-1 With a gauge for 280$ (one of my friends a dealer) , and i can slo recoupe some money by selling the AEM UEGO, but the thing is i keep reading that LC-1's need recalibration, and all sorts of crap. Also, the ZT-2 Can daisy-chain a bunch of sensors, such as EGT (which i have a gauge for), boost, (got a gauge), and a few other things. But mainly i need something to datalog AFR's and RPM's so i can tune it out with the SAFC Neo.

Does anyone have any experience with these systems or there software? Do you guys prefer one over the other? Id just like to see what you guys have to say about it.

 

[Zazzn]

zt2 has the best logging software ever.

 

[Doward]

I love my ZT-2. Tuned MANY vehicles with it!

 

[isnms]

+3 for ZT-2

 

[7M-KDL]

from what i understand, lc-1 can chain as well. recalibration is done on a new sensor when installing , a new sensor after 3 months and then only every 10,000 miles. recalibration is done by pushing a button

 

[kamikazemkiii]

I have a Lc-1, and it doesnt use a button to Recalibrate.
So is this how i go about doing that?

"Unplug the O2 from the LC-1 and take the plug out of your DP.
Turn your key on and wait 30 seconds.
Turn your key off.
Plug in your O2 sensor.
Turn your key on.
Wait 5 minutes for the recalibration to go through.
Turn your key off.
Put your sensor back in the DP.
Profit."

 

[7M-KDL]

this comes directly from the LC-1 manual. did i miss something?

Remove the oxygen sensor from the exhaust and expose it to free air (outside of the exhaust
pipe) for calibration purposes:
1. Connect the LC-1 to 12V from the vehicle and switch it on.
2. After the sensor has warmed up, either press the pushbutton or connect the calibration wire
to ground for three seconds and release.
3. After the calibration is complete, switch the LC-1 off and wait for 30 seconds before you start
the car.
If a LED indicator is connected to the calibration wire, it will be off during free air calibration.

 

[kamikazemkiii]

this comes directly from the LC-1 manual. did i miss something?

2. After the sensor has warmed up, either press the pushbutton or connect the calibration wire
to ground for three seconds and release.
.

Since i dont have a "pushbutton" were is the calibration wire? Im new to these lc-1's..

 

[7M-KDL]

i am new to them as well. i have one, but it is not installed yet since my motor is out of the car. but i have been looking over the manual thoroughly trying to make sure i understand everything before i install it anyway. gimme a minute and let me try to find that answer for you. kamikaze, are you running the XD-16 gauge or a different one?

---------- Post added at 07:51 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:45 PM ----------

ok, found it. the LC-1 should have 6 or 7 stripped wires coming out of it. the black wire is the calibration wire. since you do not have a pushbutton just push the black wire to ground for 3 seconds with the sensor in free air. also, why dont you have the button? did you buy your kit used and it did not come with one or you just chose not to use it?

if you have more questions it may be best to pm as to not hi-jack or clutter this thread.

 

[kamikazemkiii]

Im pretty sure this is it, car already had it and im pretty sure im not running 13-14 @ WOT. Its already been tuned.
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/db.php

 

[7M-KDL]

your gauge is reading that your running 13-14 @ WOT? if so, i would definitely start with recalibrating and then see what it registers. find where the controller is wired in then find the black wire. if the black wire is attached to something, other than a momentary switch, this is wrong and could in fact be the reason your gauge is reading incorrectly. at any rate, pull the sensor from the exhaust and then follow the instructions using that black wire as the calibration wire. hope that helps. PM me if you have more questions and/or to let me know what results you get.