hey fellow supra members, I was just wondering what you guys do when there is a rusted bolts on your supra. How would you remove a rusted bolt? I had a few that i wanted to replace but i don't know how to get it out. I didn't want to force it out. Any suggestions?. thanks.
What do you guys do when there is a rusted bolt?
- Thread starter MK_rider
- Start date
My only advice to you is, keep the force you exert on the wrench square on the bolt. Brace the wrench AT the bolt head with one hand WHILE you try to loosen it with the other.
If you just gorilla the farthest end of the wrench with both hands, or start jumping on it with your body weight, you will snap that bolt/stud off quite easily.
It's really all about leverage. If you are using a combination wrench, use the "wrench on wrench" method to get you more leverage. If you are using a socket wrench, get a small pipe to extend the handle 1 or 2 inches if possible. If a pipe won't fit because of handle thickness issues, go buy a 1/4" or 3/8" drive breaker bar. If you are using a screwdriver, get a screwdriver socket and convert it to a wrench. Use drive adaptors to drive smaller 3/8" drive sockets with bigger 1/2" drive wrenches/breaker bars. Same thing for 1/4" drive sockets. And if all else fails, get a bigger wrench. (see my sig) If you strip the bolt head, give up, you do not possess the knowledge needed to work on cars. Open ended wrenches are only for use where the fastener is already loose and clearance is an issue for closed ended wrenches. 6pt closed ended wrenches or 6pt (12pt for 12pt fasteners) sockets are the only things up to the task of breaking loose fasteners. Open ended wrenches' jaws spread when too much load is exerted on them, thus rounding off/stripping the fastener. And never use a 12pt socket for breaking loose a 6pt fastener.
I hope you are using some kind of penetrating liquid.
If you just gorilla the farthest end of the wrench with both hands, or start jumping on it with your body weight, you will snap that bolt/stud off quite easily.
It's really all about leverage. If you are using a combination wrench, use the "wrench on wrench" method to get you more leverage. If you are using a socket wrench, get a small pipe to extend the handle 1 or 2 inches if possible. If a pipe won't fit because of handle thickness issues, go buy a 1/4" or 3/8" drive breaker bar. If you are using a screwdriver, get a screwdriver socket and convert it to a wrench. Use drive adaptors to drive smaller 3/8" drive sockets with bigger 1/2" drive wrenches/breaker bars. Same thing for 1/4" drive sockets. And if all else fails, get a bigger wrench. (see my sig) If you strip the bolt head, give up, you do not possess the knowledge needed to work on cars. Open ended wrenches are only for use where the fastener is already loose and clearance is an issue for closed ended wrenches. 6pt closed ended wrenches or 6pt (12pt for 12pt fasteners) sockets are the only things up to the task of breaking loose fasteners. Open ended wrenches' jaws spread when too much load is exerted on them, thus rounding off/stripping the fastener. And never use a 12pt socket for breaking loose a 6pt fastener.
I hope you are using some kind of penetrating liquid.
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Spray the shit out of it with PB Blaster and let it sit for a little while. Vicegrips are you friend if all else fails 
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Davismj711
PA Mountain Supra
Another vote for PB Blaster, however even that will fail sometimes. If you use even a propane torch and heat the nut only ( so it will expand ) this works well also. I use acetylene.
It really depends on where the nut is, and what component it is connected to. PB Blaster is the safest way, coat it once, and let sit for an hr, then re-coat it. Then try removing with a good 6 point socket ^^
It really depends on where the nut is, and what component it is connected to. PB Blaster is the safest way, coat it once, and let sit for an hr, then re-coat it. Then try removing with a good 6 point socket ^^
On the small little 10mm head bolts, when they start to get tight while trying to remove them - rethread them back in.
Repeat until it comes out smooth so you don't snap one off.
Repeat until it comes out smooth so you don't snap one off.
I usually just cuss it like the dirty little bitch it is, THEN break out the pb, let it soak in, cuss it some more, examine my bloody hand, and try again... but thats just me.:sarcasm:
Also, to continue from where I left off....
Once you do finally crack that fastener loose, 1 tip. STOP!!!! Do not continue to unthread it thinking you are the man and nothing can stop you. You will find out, especially with rusted fasteners, (exhaust bolts, even spark plugs that thread into cast iron), that you will be able to loosen them a couple of revolutions but then, they will start to "tighten" as you are loosening. This is a GREAT time to stop, grab a beer, smoke, jerkoff, hey whatever floats your boat, just give it time so the HEAT THAT IS GENERATED has time to dissipate. Don't believe me? Go try to unthread a rusted bolt with a socket about half way as fast as you can, now take the socket off and I dare you to hold on to it. You WILL get burned by the socket if you generated enough friction.
Like MDC said, it helps to reverse direction and actually tighten the fastener AFTER YOU ALREADY LOOSENED IT, let it cool, loosen, let it cool, tighten, until it comes out. This can last up to an hour depending how long the fastener is and how rusted it is. And when I say "tighten" I mean the direction you would normally tighten the fastener. I'm NOT TELLING YOU TO TIGHTEN IT, just spin it about 1/8 of a turn in the tighten direction so that it loosens. You will know what I mean if this has ever happened to you. This only happens to hardcore rusted fasteners, something most people have never encountered and I pray you never have to. This has happened on 1 of my turbo to exhaust manifold nut/studs.
You want the metal of the fastener to cool and contract before you reach the plastic stage of the fastener.
I'm actually thinking about devising a cooling system for such situations that would cut down on broken bolts, since I encounter a prick fastener almost everyday and don't have the time to wait for the bolt to cool. (Flat rate anyone?) I just spray the shit out of it with PB to cool it, usually going through 2 cans a day, hey it's good for something
And everyone that swears by PB, yes it is a good penetrating oil, but there are far better ones out there, just gotta be determined to find them.
That is all, thank you.
Once you do finally crack that fastener loose, 1 tip. STOP!!!! Do not continue to unthread it thinking you are the man and nothing can stop you. You will find out, especially with rusted fasteners, (exhaust bolts, even spark plugs that thread into cast iron), that you will be able to loosen them a couple of revolutions but then, they will start to "tighten" as you are loosening. This is a GREAT time to stop, grab a beer, smoke, jerkoff, hey whatever floats your boat, just give it time so the HEAT THAT IS GENERATED has time to dissipate. Don't believe me? Go try to unthread a rusted bolt with a socket about half way as fast as you can, now take the socket off and I dare you to hold on to it. You WILL get burned by the socket if you generated enough friction.
Like MDC said, it helps to reverse direction and actually tighten the fastener AFTER YOU ALREADY LOOSENED IT, let it cool, loosen, let it cool, tighten, until it comes out. This can last up to an hour depending how long the fastener is and how rusted it is. And when I say "tighten" I mean the direction you would normally tighten the fastener. I'm NOT TELLING YOU TO TIGHTEN IT, just spin it about 1/8 of a turn in the tighten direction so that it loosens. You will know what I mean if this has ever happened to you. This only happens to hardcore rusted fasteners, something most people have never encountered and I pray you never have to. This has happened on 1 of my turbo to exhaust manifold nut/studs.
You want the metal of the fastener to cool and contract before you reach the plastic stage of the fastener.
I'm actually thinking about devising a cooling system for such situations that would cut down on broken bolts, since I encounter a prick fastener almost everyday and don't have the time to wait for the bolt to cool. (Flat rate anyone?) I just spray the shit out of it with PB to cool it, usually going through 2 cans a day, hey it's good for something
And everyone that swears by PB, yes it is a good penetrating oil, but there are far better ones out there, just gotta be determined to find them.
That is all, thank you.
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Frank Rizzo;994371 said:
What's some of the penetrating oils that you use? I may have to try them out on my Geo Metro...
Alright guys, what i'm trying to do is i'm installing my tanabe catback. The cat back bolts are really rusty. I tried to gorilla style it but gave up because i didn't want to round off the edges of the bolt. So instead i just ordered a test pipe and decided to take the catylact converter off as well.
why didnt you just do that n the first place? I dont recall wisconsin having emissions that needed a cat?
