What do I need for 400rwhp????
- Thread starter oscarsupra
- Start date
1992supraman;1070706 said:
ya i still did even after i checked all the boost leaks but the thing is i have the .57 ct26 and the BIC DDP and even though i was running stock boost it would spike to 14+ so = fuel cut but thats what maftpro is for! :biglaugh:
Doward;744613 said:But what you aren't taking into consideration, is the HUGE support you can get from SupraMania here.
Seriously, if you are willing to listen, I don't think there's anything you could possibly do to your car, that the folks here couldn't help you with!
I'm not the electronics expert here, but I am in school for ECE, so I know a little bit about electrical theory and such
To the OP - if you can wire up and use an SAFC, then you can do the MAFT-Pro with no problems.
i was just scannin threw this one, but shouldnt internal parts also help 400whp too? bottom end rebuild rods bearings pistons? and top end rebuild cams seals cam gears?
There is no way I'd go with a Lexus / SAFC combo over a MAFT Pro today. In the past, sure, but not anymore.
You'll need some sort of boost control as well. And a clutch that will hold... and tires that will hold. And probably a fuel pump. So, the list is up to:
CT26 60-1
550 injectors
Walbro fuel pump
MAFT Pro, including
-MAP setup
-Boost Controller
fmic+piping
downpipe / exhaust
intake
clutch setup for 500tq
sticky tires
*and proper tune by someone who knows what they're doing*
You'll need some sort of boost control as well. And a clutch that will hold... and tires that will hold. And probably a fuel pump. So, the list is up to:
CT26 60-1
550 injectors
Walbro fuel pump
MAFT Pro, including
-MAP setup
-Boost Controller
fmic+piping
downpipe / exhaust
intake
clutch setup for 500tq
sticky tires
*and proper tune by someone who knows what they're doing*
Well... not really. This is all a damn fine idea, but chances are it won't affect your power output, only your engine longevity.supra153624;1073361 said:
I don't understand why people pay $700 for a MAFT Pro with all the doodads when you can get a Megasquirt system for under $500. Just my 2¢
Quin;1073775 said:
i had a choice between going maftpro or going with a megasquirt but when you think about it there are so many guys on the forum that sell them for cheap and sooo many people on the forum that can help you setup or tune with maftpro...thats just my 2cents:boink:
Well, lemme check... I installed and tuned my MAFT setup in under an hour.
How long does it take to do the same with a MS setup?
How long does it take to do the same with a MS setup?
I have over 8 years of supra experiance with mk3.
The forumla for 400WHP on a 7m which will produce LOTS of low end and lots of fun = the following
Walbro, AFPR, Emanage blue, 12 volt pump mod.
Base fuel pressure at 50, Emanage clamped at i believe it's around 1350 HZ (can't remember exactly maybe 1400) have a map somewhere. Use the aditional injection map to hold the duration of the injector open longer as not to go lean. and about 18 PSI on a 61 or upgraded CT26. Note on the 61 we made 435 WHP.
Stock IC is up to the task, but usually the stock piping isn't.
It really is a simple recipe that has been fudged up by so many over the years.
BTW you should already have BPU mods like intake, MHG, exhaust, and downpipe and boost control.
The forumla for 400WHP on a 7m which will produce LOTS of low end and lots of fun = the following
Walbro, AFPR, Emanage blue, 12 volt pump mod.
Base fuel pressure at 50, Emanage clamped at i believe it's around 1350 HZ (can't remember exactly maybe 1400) have a map somewhere. Use the aditional injection map to hold the duration of the injector open longer as not to go lean. and about 18 PSI on a 61 or upgraded CT26. Note on the 61 we made 435 WHP.
Stock IC is up to the task, but usually the stock piping isn't.
It really is a simple recipe that has been fudged up by so many over the years.
BTW you should already have BPU mods like intake, MHG, exhaust, and downpipe and boost control.
I personally think the question asked should have been" what do i need to make a reliable 400hp". I would have to say instead of bolting on all the goodies people have been suggesting to spend a couple of dollars first on some handy ARP's and a metal h/gasket and getting a compression test before doing anything.Chances are the engine your playing with has already clocked up a few miles and will need a few hoses replacing, belts, bearings e.t.c.
Much easier then to start playing hp games without worrying about getting a cappuccino in the radiator straight away.
Much easier then to start playing hp games without worrying about getting a cappuccino in the radiator straight away.
wiseco7mgt;1075095 said:
WELL SAID. 400hp will only lead to spending the money and time twice without a solid & sound motor. First get the motor in position to handle 400, then give it all you got.
