Oh how I have been there lol I miss that though working on the car all night from 7pm to 3 or 4am get so much work done. It's amazing when you start with having so much space in the engine bay to barely any space by the end of the night.
What did you do to your supra today? Pics
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5 quarts should be more than enough. I think the whole system is 3-4 at MOST, and that's being very loose with the estimate!
I figured 5 was the safe amount plan on changing my pads, brake and clutch fluid, thermostat housing, and turbo inlet hose by friday. Hopefully everything arrives by thursday that way I can work on the car all night, test for leaks, and test drive then enjoy it with some friends on friday and saturday with the targa off in this beautiful Houston weather.
Double check the owners manual/TSRM, pretty sure all capacities for fluids are listed in there.Doat;1885826 said:
As for me, the only pad I've ever put in the car myself was a Porterfield R4S. Put those in, turned the rotors, and holy COW... what a difference! They might be a bit pricey, but they're a really good pad for a stock setup. I might have put 20k on those pads, they never seemed like they were wearing out, but 20k on pads really isn't much for a street car.
This is the one time of year I'd love to trade you guys down south for the weather. It spit a bit of snow at us today...Doat;1885846 said:
Anyway, better to have too much fluid than not enough, just in case of spills. Besides, you have to air out the systems, correct?
I found the fluids list that you were talking about when it gets to Brakes it doesn't say anything lol. I will look into those R45 pads and I will get something good like those when I replace the rotors. Yea the weather down here is hell during the rest of the year but winter and fall my god it's targa off weather without breaking a sweat even when you are in traffic.te72;1886079 said:Double check the owners manual/TSRM, pretty sure all capacities for fluids are listed in there.
As for me, the only pad I've ever put in the car myself was a Porterfield R4S. Put those in, turned the rotors, and holy COW... what a difference! They might be a bit pricey, but they're a really good pad for a stock setup. I might have put 20k on those pads, they never seemed like they were wearing out, but 20k on pads really isn't much for a street car.
This is the one time of year I'd love to trade you guys down south for the weather. It spit a bit of snow at us today...
Anyway, better to have too much fluid than not enough, just in case of spills. Besides, you have to air out the systems, correct?
Yeah, I was just going to say that they choose to not list the actual capacity for brake lines in the manual. Auto trans either as I recall
The thing with the brake systems is that the calipers take fluid as well, and in an amount that varies as the pads and rotors wear. If someone were to try to pin it down to a specific amount, it would have to be with new pads and rotors, and even then there would be a margin for variance. It will also be different for ABS cars than for non-ABS cars. I believe that this is reason enough not to put a specification on the amount of fluid for the system.
I just usually buy a fresh bottle of fluid when I do my brakes. I've never really paid much attention to how much of it gets used, since it's more than half a bottle, and the rest ends up at the eco-station after a while, since I won't use it if it's been sitting unsealed after a couple of months. I usually take the fresh bottle and top up all of the cars that I own.
I just usually buy a fresh bottle of fluid when I do my brakes. I've never really paid much attention to how much of it gets used, since it's more than half a bottle, and the rest ends up at the eco-station after a while, since I won't use it if it's been sitting unsealed after a couple of months. I usually take the fresh bottle and top up all of the cars that I own.
Yea I just wanted to know how many quarts I should buy for changing the brake and clutch fluid and if just drain and top off until clean fluid comes out would be the best way to do it and according to you guys that is. I will buy 5 quarts because I am sure that is more than enough and you guys have once again confirmed this. I just wanted to get an idea of how much I should buy.Dan_Gyoba;1886212 said:
Quick question, would using synthetic dot 3 brake fluid be a bad idea like does it require a procedure or something or can I just do a switch?
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Doat, you'd be better off searching through the oils/lubrications sub forum, as well as the chassis/suspension section. I can't say I've ever heard of that causing an issue, but I'm far from a chemist. I know of a certain member who would more than likely know an answer to your question, but you don't see him in this thread often, if ever.Doat;1886219 said:
My only concern would be along the lines of switching to a PAO/Ester based oil, potentially unclogging your old seals and causing leaks. Not sure that the brake system works in the same way, or if brake fluid gets as much gunk in it.
I flush all my brake/clutch systems and convert to DOT 5. The key benefit being DOT 5 is synthetic and won't eat paint. Some will argue that the boiling point is lower but if your going hard enough to boil your brake fluid you need a roll cage and a track.
Thanks for the info and advice you guys are saving my ass lol. I went to my local auto parts store and they didn't have the synthetic fluid so I just got wearever gold dot 3, 4 quarts of it if I need an extra I'll run down to the store and get what I need.
Dani87x;1886428 said:Fuel filter changed... Rust poured out of it
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I should really change mine -__-
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You'll have a bunch of people chime in insisting that it isnt necessary, and that it is a lifetime filter. Truth it, sometimes it'll still get overwhelmed with nasty gunk, so the least you can do is drop the tank and clean both out.
Is there a write up on dropping the tank and doing the filter replacement ? may do this over the weekend