Well Crap!!!! help me plz

[turbotrev]

ok i just got done rebuilding my motor gte and everything is in place and it runs well come to find out that my MHG the HKS 2mm stopper is leaking coolant.

I did everything correct on the rebuild: block and head planned everything was damn near perfect so i trq my ARPs down dont remember the trq. and everything went together smoothly

What could cause this Not Lapping the block?? when i did my bhg over a year ago i didnt lapp the block just cleaned the hell out of it and head was planned. and it worked awesome! the guy who tuned it said it was a very strong engine for myself and my dad doing it.

or not trqed down enough???

so im just really depressed right now and could use some help on this.

thnx a million

trev

 

[loki2043]

not perfect.. you forgot to surface the block. now you get to tear the engine down to the bare block again, with everything out of it and get it surfaced.

 

[turbotrev]

it was surfaced/planned. i pretty much had everything done to the block that was nessary for the budget i had.

 

[kylefoto]

Everything needs to be perfect on both surfaces (Block and Head) for metal head gaskets, they aren't as flexible and forgiving on the stock ones...

 

[turbotrev]

i think im just gunna trq it down some more and a say the hell with it!!!!!:icon_mad:

if worst comes to worst ill just go 1jz and part out my 7mgte

 

[JustAnotherVictim]

Cuz we know 1j's never break.

 

[turbotrev]

pretty much

im surprised that SC has made section with the title as "OMG MY 7M BROKE! AND I JUST DUMPED 10K IN THE MOTOR!" or "HOWS YOUR 1JZ DOING? RUNNING LIKE ALWAYS"

:icon_mad: :icon_mad: :icon_mad: :icon_mad: :icon_mad: :icon_mad: :icon_mad: :icon_mad: :icon_mad: :icon_mad: :icon_mad:

 

[Big Wang Bandit]

Or go for a stock gasket and use your arps...


1jz isnt the cure to cancer. Its not an easy swap.

 

[kylefoto]

i think im just gunna trq it down some more and a say the hell with it!!!!!:icon_mad:

if worst comes to worst ill just go 1jz and part out my 7mgte

Wow good attitude.
Just go ahead and take the "easy" way out.
Why don't you just do things right in the first place? Obviously if you've got the money to go 1j, then you've got the money to do a 7m right.

 

[turbotrev]

actually i dont have the money and iirc i might have not trqed them down enough so im still not for sure on my trq that the arp's are at.

but some how i come up with money easy. i guess thats the benefits of not having a commited gf, just a here and there type girl:naughty:

anywho back on subject!

is it possible to lapp the block with all the internals in or do i have to take everything out to do it?

also whats the chances of coolant getting in my oil if the coolant is leaking to the outside?


edit: and yes i might have to take the "easy" way out b/c im leaving for college in 2 months and i have to have 3k saved up and im almost to 2k so thats were im stuck at

 

[mdr40z]

Personally, I can't believe that it would be leaking even after you had the block surfaced, did the shop know you were going to use a MHG?. If so, the finish they put on should have been sufficient, I think lapping is overrated for reasonable hp #'s. I would drain the anti-freeze and try the re-torque, remember to back them out and then torque them in the proper sequence in 3 steps to at least 85 or so and make sure to use the arp lube. I would also make sure each bolt has the washer. g/l.... Use the TSRM

 

[williamb82]

the arp studs should be tqed to 90ft/lbs. if it is and still leaking, its YOUR FAULT for not prepping the block when you rebuilt the engine. you cut a corner, and are paying the price. a 1j isnt gonna save you from cutting corners.

 

[Stretch]

It'll be cheaper to just fix this problem then it will be to do a 1jz swap. Make the 7m reliable, strip it, cut it, and rebuild it again, making sure surfaces are silk, and forget the jz.
eric

 

[JustAnotherVictim]

No wai!!
7m breaks 1j is always the answer. No matter what.

 

[927mgtepat]

You need to lap the block

 

[jdub]

the arp studs should be tqed to 90ft/lbs. if it is and still leaking, its YOUR FAULT for not prepping the block when you rebuilt the engine. you cut a corner, and are paying the price. a 1j isnt gonna save you from cutting corners.

Incorrect - ARP spec for the studs is 81 ft/lbs using moly for lube. Using higher torque than the spec risks distorting the aluminum head.
FYI - ARP spec for the bolts is 75 ft/lbs for this reason as well.

Turbotrev - where exactly is this coolant leaking from? Can you take a pic?

 

[turbotrev]

ill try and get a shot of it but i think i can only get one spot of it tho.

so would 85ft/lbs of trq be alright or just do the 81ft/lbs

pics will be up after i get off work tonite at 6pm cst.

trev

edit: and i really didnt cut a corner i had everything done to block and head that needed except for lapping which i didnt know about at the time and like i said before i use a MHG w/o lapping and it did good.

oh and i was just pissed off when i said that about the 1jz

 

[Jaguar_5]

If it's not sealing at 81 ft/lbs, it's not gonna seal at 85

After the block and head were decked, did you run your fingernail accross it? Could you feel ANY machine marks (swirly ridges)

And you didn't specify where the coolant is leaking from, what if it's not even the HG?

 

[steve_mk3]

also did you have the front timing cover machined with the block? if the Timing cover is not level with the block deck you will not seal.

 

[jdub]

Personally, I don't go above the spec...having said that, +/- a couple of ft/lbs of torque is not going to hurt anything. Then you start going 10 ft/lbs over you're pushing it. ARP hardware comes with a spec sheet for a reason

The HKS MHGs are the most demanding concerning surface smoothness...they require a surface RA of 30. Lapping is only required if the machine shop does not have the equipment to meet this spec. Jaguar is correct...if you can feel machine marks with your fingernail, the surface is not smooth enough.