Uses of a Torque Plate?

IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
Mar 30, 2005
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60K I'd be going the next size bore without a second thought if it's a performance build, if it's a low hp DD type thing I'd measure first before deciding on a course of action.
 

MA70witBoost

Registered Drifter
IJ.;1559930 said:
60K I'd be going the next size bore without a second thought if it's a performance build, if it's a low hp DD type thing I'd measure first before deciding on a course of action.

whats your opinion of a low hp DD? I was concidering from 400-500hp daily driven.

4U2QUIK;1559943 said:
and a note on that, don't just check in one place if you mic the bore. Check it several places both rotationally and vertically.

knew about checking it in different depths in the cylinder but hadn't thought about rotationally. Good tip.
 
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MA70witBoost

Registered Drifter
IJ.;1560076 said:
<300 is a low HP 7M build.

Just out of curiosity, why go to the next bore size? Befor me it was supposedly running w/o a boost controller at stock boost and no bolt ons for the motor. Motor ran great aside from the valve stem seal leak it started off with.

Going to try to get cylinder #1 measured this afternooon. Get a bit of an idea atleast how that cylinder is doing. Measure both the cylinder and piston? So I pretty much have to finish pulling the short block and dissassemble?
 

IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
Mar 30, 2005
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After 60K miles the holes won't be round or true, just because "motor ran great" doesn't mean it was in any condition to build on as a good reliable base.

I don't build dyno queens or one hit wonders, I run my cars exactly how they're dyno'd and expect them to live day in day out at those settings.

Typical dyno session for me is drive in hook up the Dyno WB, Knock sensor/ears and Map sensor do the tuning unhook it all and drive home, no micky mouse BS race fuel/special settings.

Having said that if anything isn't perfect you'll soon grenade it, there's a HUGE difference in an engine that see's a few passes down the strip each year set on kill to one that get's hammered at full boost and taken to redline each time it's driven on the street then can still blast across the country and make it back.

Even at your proposed "low HP level" you're more than doubling the engines output so things need to be right.
(SM is littered with grenades as people seem to have this idea that 400+rwhp is "easy" and just a matter of bolting on a big fuck off Turbo and cranking in the boost)
 

MA70witBoost

Registered Drifter
IJ.;1560160 said:
After 60K miles the holes won't be round or true, just because "motor ran great" doesn't mean it was in any condition to build on as a good reliable base.

I don't build dyno queens or one hit wonders, I run my cars exactly how they're dyno'd and expect them to live day in day out at those settings.

Typical dyno session for me is drive in hook up the Dyno WB, Knock sensor/ears and Map sensor do the tuning unhook it all and drive home, no micky mouse BS race fuel/special settings.

Having said that if anything isn't perfect you'll soon grenade it, there's a HUGE difference in an engine that see's a few passes down the strip each year set on kill to one that get's hammered at full boost and taken to redline each time it's driven on the street then can still blast across the country and make it back.

Even at your proposed "low HP level" you're more than doubling the engines output so things need to be right.
(SM is littered with grenades as people seem to have this idea that 400+rwhp is "easy" and just a matter of bolting on a big fuck off Turbo and cranking in the boost)

not arguing with you Ian. I know that the 7M has to be perfect. Not fond of having to over bore again. This means new pistons? Why do I have to Overbore? Possibilities of the cylinders not being straight? Im just trying to understand. I guess I shoulda reworded my previouse reply...
 

IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
Mar 30, 2005
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It's cool I know you're not but I just wanted to make my reasoning perfectly clear, this is just the way I do things as I'm not keen on failure.

"If" the Bores all measure up fine round and not tapered you're good to go but the chances of that are slim at best.

You need to measure each hole top/middle/bottom and 12 o'clock, 3 and 4.30 (with 12 being the front)