Upgraded rad and fan for 2j?

CSquared

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The last day I drove my car during the summer this year I was having some pretty bad temp spiking on the highway. It's a 2jz single turbo, currently on an oem style mk3 rad, as well as the 2jzgte fan and fan clutch (new Toyota red coolant and thermostat).

I'd really like to upgrade the radiator, but the clutch/fan (both 2jzgte) are ridiculously close to the oem radiator. So I can't imagine that a larger aftermarket rad will fit in front of the fan (safely anyway). Was thinking about picking up the mishimoto rad and electric fans since they are both direct bolt-in. But, it seems like a lot of folks say that electric fans aren't efficient enough either.

At the very least I plan on doing a complete coolant flush, new koyo oem style replacement rad and a new cap.

It gets pretty hot down south. Suggestions?
 
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gurley0916

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Mar 10, 2008
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cramerizking;1881398 said:
2jzgte fan clutch and 2jzgte fan blades

If you want the mishimoto you will need the 2jzge fanblade as that fan sits closer to the motor...then I highly recommend poly or solid motor mounts if on a 89+ subframe cause in hard braking or maneuvering the fan will touch the rad
 

CSquared

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gurley0916;1881414 said:
If you want the mishimoto you will need the 2jzge fanblade as that fan sits closer to the motor...then I highly recommend poly or solid motor mounts if on a 89+ subframe cause in hard braking or maneuvering the fan will touch the rad

Yeah I'm running the polys from BIC.
 

Radial

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Electric fans are awsome, you just need quality stuff... with BIG blades (at least single 16" or twin 13-14")

The fact that almost every single new automobile runs Electric fan arrangements... even heavy duty applications, buries the myth of electric fans being weak. But the OEM Toyota fans are powerful, they just take up too mutch space.

Go for a Flex-a-Lite twin fan for an example... thew flow Very good, and does not take up much space either. Or a OEM fan from a HD or High Performance application (Volvo 2001-2007 V70/S60 Turbo fans are also awsome with ~3500cfm)
A little expensive, but..: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Flex-a-lite...Parts_Accessories&hash=item589675213d&vxp=mtr
OEM volvo fan, but you find theese at the junkyard too.. much cheaper: http://www.ebay.com/itm/BRAND-NEW-V...?forcev4exp=true&forceRpt=true#ht_2222wt_1393


Combine that with a new aluminium radiator or something, you should be good.

If your MK3 has Aircondition, check that the AC register in front of the car is not blocking the airflow to your radiator... bugs, sand, dust and other shitt. (you should do that fist though :p )
 

CSquared

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gurley0916;1881414 said:
If you want the mishimoto you will need the 2jzge fanblade as that fan sits closer to the motor...then I highly recommend poly or solid motor mounts if on a 89+ subframe cause in hard braking or maneuvering the fan will touch the rad

Can anyone else verify this as well as how much closer it's it to the motor?
 

Albert

Custom CT26, CT12a, CT20 upgrades
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This is the best setup you can run IMO.

Koyo radiator (OEM version)(not the 3core aluminum)
2jzgte fan (has to be the TT version)
2jzgte clutch
Oem shroud

As long as you don't run a thicker core radiator the 2jzgte setup will work. And shroud will fit, you just have to take off the bottom portion of the shroud.

I'm running the same setup as that. No issues in 115deg weather
 

gurley0916

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Mar 10, 2008
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cramerizking;1881749 said:
Can anyone else verify this as well as how much closer it's it to the motor?

I forgot using the ge blade will require shortening of the coolant neck so it doesnt sit so far from the motor
 

CSquared

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Albert;1881755 said:
This is the best setup you can run IMO.

Koyo radiator (OEM version)(not the 3core aluminum)
2jzgte fan (has to be the TT version)
2jzgte clutch
Oem shroud

As long as you don't run a thicker core radiator the 2jzgte setup will work. And shroud will fit, you just have to take off the bottom portion of the shroud.

I'm running the same setup as that. No issues in 115deg weather

Well I've got the tt fan and clutch. The koyo oem rad is my fallback plan at the moment. If i don't find anything better, that is what i am going to do.
 

CSquared

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gurley0916;1881761 said:
I forgot using the ge blade will require shortening of the coolant neck so it doesnt sit so far from the motor

Yeah i was actually looking at that this morning. Thinking damn there is really not much room in either direction.
 

ttsupra2503

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Feb 28, 2012
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Your concerns about electric fans not being able to handle the load are basically cause your listening to people who dont know what they are talking about and they are using the cheapest fan on the market. I know the last few posts have confirmed that I am not on crack but I am gonna say the following anyways....

I have ran electric fans on a stock toyota 4runner copper radiator with a chevy 350 that was definately not stock and the fans never hit stage 2 of their power. I used fans from a ford taurus that are 2 stage 12 inch stock fans and just mounted them to an aluminum custom shroud. To take the power sucking initial pull of power out of the question I used a 2 farad capacitor from a auto stereo shop and wired it in for ANY of my modified electrical bits. 65 amp stock alternator worked great and never noticed the fans there at all. Running at 2500 rpm through rocks at 2mph is hard on a rad and that truck stayed right on the thermostat spot the whole time. Never budged.

Most of the time I see people run clutch fans because "they never fail" or "the electric fan pulls more power then a clutch fan". I switch to electric fans on all my vehicles and out of pure curiosity I will ask my local dyno shop to post my supra numbers before and after the fan conversion just to show that properly set up it is actually better then a clutch fan. I believe it was HP TV that did a test run on an engine dyno stand with a chevy electric water pump and it gained them 7hp on a 400 hp motor. That is a pretty good gain for something that most people say "takes more power to run then a belt driven version"

ps. if you are worried about failure, wire the two fans separately so if one fails the other is still running.
 

gurley0916

Gurley=Last Name not girl
Mar 10, 2008
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ttsupra2503;1881792 said:
Your concerns about electric fans not being able to handle the load are basically cause your listening to people who dont know what they are talking about and they are using the cheapest fan on the market. I know the last few posts have confirmed that I am not on crack but I am gonna say the following anyways....

Hey lets not undermine people hear ok. This is a learning thread. Im glad electric has worked for you but you are kind of comparing apples to oranges. The mk3 has no frontal area compared to alot of cars so just consider that. Yes electric fans can work such as the taurus fans and a good flexalite set up. Also have you compared the size of a mk4 radiator vs a mk3 radiator. Big difference.
 

Albert

Custom CT26, CT12a, CT20 upgrades
May 13, 2009
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My 3 core koyo and flex a lite setup made my 1jz get warm goin up mt Lemmon.

Same exact setup switched to clutch fan and stock oem koyo andnever got over 195.

This is all in 110deg weather in the desert. People who love electric probably live in a place where the weather doesn't go over 80deg lol.

Worth the 7hp loss.

There are guys here running electric tho.
 

CSquared

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I'm still open to any setup, and I don't necessarily buy into the fact that electric fans aren't inefficient enough. However, space is a huge consideration, especially with a 3 inch intercooler pipe running straight down from the throttle body.

Most of the recommended fans (that are reliable and push a decent CFM) are HUGE, or at least way beyond the space capacity I have at the moment. I guess the whole point of this thread for me is trying to fish for reliable setups that folks have been able to jam into the confined space (mechanical or electric).
 
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