Torsen
- Thread starter H-Dogg
- Start date
with 3.7 it is harder to keep your rpms in the sweet spot because the ratios dont overlap as much so if you have a laggy turbo then 3.7 sucks. the 4.3 is to much for it also 3.9 is pretty good.
stock 1jz twin the 4.3 delivers so much torque it is perfect with the stock twins except when driving long distances with high speed commutes.
stock 1jz twin the 4.3 delivers so much torque it is perfect with the stock twins except when driving long distances with high speed commutes.
yea 3.91 im at about 3400 rpms in 5th at 80
my 7M with 4.30 LSD was at 3800 at 80
3.91 is nice on twins i like it i just need one that isn't fried
can't even slide in the rain
my 7M with 4.30 LSD was at 3800 at 80
3.91 is nice on twins i like it i just need one that isn't fried
can't even slide in the rain
Evilempire1.3JZ-GTE said:
I dunno about that... The 'sweet spot' for stock twins is between 3k-7k. Not hard to find a good gear at any speed with any diff.
I was under the impression that you could just swap the ring gears. In essence just swap out the torsen and keep your origin ring gear/final drive ratio.
Jacob: The Stub Axles are different to the LSD/Open diffs so would need to be swapped in as well.
I'm looking at putting in a Torsen diff into my mk3. According to post 12 and 25 I will need the half shafts as well? What in total will I need to swap out the differentials. I currently have the 4.30 LSD and want to go a little lower gearing and try out the torsen.
While I'm at it, I'm not 100% I have a torsen. Do all of the JZA70 supras come with a torsen or just the TTRs? I think the diff I have came out of a base model.
While I'm at it, I'm not 100% I have a torsen. Do all of the JZA70 supras come with a torsen or just the TTRs? I think the diff I have came out of a base model.
Guyana00;1291287 said:
Anyone able to clarify for me? I know now that I just need the diff and half shafts. Just wondering still if all JZA70's come equipped with torsens.
As far as I know it did.
The vin on my JDM supra half clips is G299 also.
G=8" housing
29=4.10
9=Torsen LSD
The JDM Diff I was told have a tendency to explode on any hard launch.
There is documentation on the found flaws you could clearly see the thread on SF that show with pictures where they fall apart.
The US 3.7, 3.9, 4.3 wear out after high millage but are rebuildable.
The vin on my JDM supra half clips is G299 also.
G=8" housing
29=4.10
9=Torsen LSD
The JDM Diff I was told have a tendency to explode on any hard launch.
There is documentation on the found flaws you could clearly see the thread on SF that show with pictures where they fall apart.
The US 3.7, 3.9, 4.3 wear out after high millage but are rebuildable.
Guys, my boy down here has a very good and clean 3.73 LSD. We all know it can take a beating and excellent for 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear pulls.
Pm me and i'll forward you in his info.
Pm me and i'll forward you in his info.
I have a 1991 JZA70 Not the TTR but an Aero GT and it has the torsen in the rear as well. It is funny because I have launched the car on a number of occasions and I have yet to break the rear end. It could very well be an aftermarket pumpkin though.
Thanks for the help, I'll check my VIN and look for the diff code and see what it says.
I'm also aware of the Torsen's rep. It's really hit and miss as far as I'm concerned. I don't launch much or at all truthfully and don't intend to. I just want to try it out with only lowering my rear end ratio a bit. This fits my criteria and the torsen's design is amazing so I want to experience it.
If something bad happens, the USDM versions are more readily available, I'll switch back. Thanks again to everyone for the help.
I'm also aware of the Torsen's rep. It's really hit and miss as far as I'm concerned. I don't launch much or at all truthfully and don't intend to. I just want to try it out with only lowering my rear end ratio a bit. This fits my criteria and the torsen's design is amazing so I want to experience it.
If something bad happens, the USDM versions are more readily available, I'll switch back. Thanks again to everyone for the help.
this is speaking from personal experience, not just experience driving the car to work and back everyday, but someone that has deliberately abused the hell out of their car for fun.
I cannot talk highly enough of the factory torsen diff that comes in your import jza70 lsd. it has proven in excess of consistent, reliable, smooth and fun. In the 5 years of ownership It has slipped into a single spinner mode not once but twice. otherwise it puts power down to both wheels every time and paints 2 lines every time.
I have seen them break and will totally agree every time that they are not suited to drag racing regardless of power or tyre, but for every other form of driving I have participated in, I couldnt have asked for any other diff.
I have since moved to a KAAZ 2 way lsd (since i want to continue drag racing) and this diff has delivered an expereince almost on the complete opposite end of the scale.
The breaking in period is a complete nightmare, the diffs behaviour during this period is offensive to say the least. The noise, the clunking, the harshness is really out there. Then you have the whole new driving experience when locked to get acustomed to. You no longer have any security from mistakes on the road (from kerbs) and it takes time to get used to.
Once the diff is broken in it becomes tolerable but I personaly question its performance vs practicality compared to the torsen.
The 2way is an all out ballsy drifters diff with no manners, but will offer far more benefits than a torsen, however for a factory diff, teh torsen is a champion.
the above views are of my opinion and do not neccessarily reflect every torsen out there. If there are manufacturing faults with these diffs or different people have different experiences I totally accept that.
/2c
I cannot talk highly enough of the factory torsen diff that comes in your import jza70 lsd. it has proven in excess of consistent, reliable, smooth and fun. In the 5 years of ownership It has slipped into a single spinner mode not once but twice. otherwise it puts power down to both wheels every time and paints 2 lines every time.
I have seen them break and will totally agree every time that they are not suited to drag racing regardless of power or tyre, but for every other form of driving I have participated in, I couldnt have asked for any other diff.
I have since moved to a KAAZ 2 way lsd (since i want to continue drag racing) and this diff has delivered an expereince almost on the complete opposite end of the scale.
The breaking in period is a complete nightmare, the diffs behaviour during this period is offensive to say the least. The noise, the clunking, the harshness is really out there. Then you have the whole new driving experience when locked to get acustomed to. You no longer have any security from mistakes on the road (from kerbs) and it takes time to get used to.
Once the diff is broken in it becomes tolerable but I personaly question its performance vs practicality compared to the torsen.
The 2way is an all out ballsy drifters diff with no manners, but will offer far more benefits than a torsen, however for a factory diff, teh torsen is a champion.
the above views are of my opinion and do not neccessarily reflect every torsen out there. If there are manufacturing faults with these diffs or different people have different experiences I totally accept that.
/2c
Ive never heard of any aftermarket lsd that either ive had experience with or have been around being sloppy or smooth by any means. Notice, theyre there to be aggressive, hooking both tires at the same time, be strong and reliable at the same time. Comfort is not part of it. No aftermarket clutch type doesnt have chatter. PERIOD. Having worked at Randys ring & pinion i know this. Its a sacrifice of comfort, for a far better gain. Chipping stock spiders is not fun, and this happens with worn clutch packs, or open diffs. Choose your fancy.