tips for machining

Avicii

Avicii

New Member
Nov 4, 2011
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Next door
Well i finally have my GE engine out and have my GTE engine ready to go in but after reading many post's i have decided to do the whole metal HG but i would like to know what steps i need to take in order for this to be successful.This is my first time doing any kind of engine work so i want to make sure i have everything in order, so my questions are

1. what do i need to do before i take the head and block to the machine shop?

2. what questions should i ask the shop so i don't sound like a dummy?

3. i just read about getting the head hardened tested which i was not even aware you could do is there any other little things i should do?

4. while i have everything out what else should i check?

i am mainly going for at least 300hp nothing serious just a fun DD, may sound odd but i have even written down my steps to getting this swap to go as smoothly as possible lol
 
KTM530

KTM530

Supramania Contributor
Jan 24, 2011
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santa rosa
Well if you read some older posts from some of the more tech inclined guys around hear they will read that your power goal is fine for the stock gasket. With that being said. Go back and Search MHG. Not trying to be a dick but this has been covered lots o times. In breaf: Bag and tag all parts on dissambley. Use the TSRM http://www.cygnusx1.net/ on dissambley. You can't go wrong if you follow all steps. As for the machinist call around and ask if they have a torque plate (google torque plate so you know what it is) remember head, block and timming plate all need to be cut. " just a tip if the machine shop is all dirty and in chaos I would not use them, a nice clean shop means good work in my experience.
Hope it all works out! "sorry it seems the link to the TSRM is inop, maybe somone around here has one that works"
 
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IndigoMKII

IndigoMKII

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May 9, 2011
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This might be of some help to you since you seem to have a few questions. http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?5631-7M-assembly-tips.

Hardness testing is done many ways, this might be a fun read for you. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rockwell_scale

You'll want to take them the head, block and the front timing cover with the belt tensioner bolted up and torqued. Ask them to remove MINIMAL material just to clean everything up, I have seen machine shops take off .02" just as a standard.

Edit: You could also ask them if they have a 7m torque plate, just incase you want to go back for further machine work in the future.
 
Avicii

Avicii

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Nov 4, 2011
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Next door
IndigoMKII;1824600 said:
This might be of some help to you since you seem to have a few questions. http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?5631-7M-assembly-tips.

Hardness testing is done many ways, this might be a fun read for you. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rockwell_scale

You'll want to take them the head, block and the front timing cover with the belt tensioner bolted up and torqued. Ask them to remove MINIMAL material just to clean everything up, I have seen machine shops take off .02" just as a standard.

Edit: You could also ask them if they have a 7m torque plate, just incase you want to go back for further machine work in the future.
Click to expand...

ahh thanks i didnt know i needed to take the timing cover
 
Avicii

Avicii

New Member
Nov 4, 2011
103
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Next door
KTM530;1824580 said:
Well if you read some older posts from some of the more tech inclined guys around hear they will read that your power goal is fine for the stock gasket. With that being said. Go back and Search MHG. Not trying to be a dick but this has been covered lots o times. In breaf: Bag and tag all parts on dissambley. Use the TSRM http://www.cygnusx1.net/ on dissambley. You can't go wrong if you follow all steps. As for the machinist call around and ask if they have a torque plate (google torque plate so you know what it is) remember head, block and timming plate all need to be cut. " just a tip if the machine shop is all dirty and in chaos I would not use them, a nice clean shop means good work in my experience.
Hope it all works out! "sorry it seems the link to the TSRM is inop, maybe somone around here has one that works"
Click to expand...

sweet i will give the link a try i will just google
 
ttsupra2503

ttsupra2503

6'8 BC Giant
Feb 28, 2012
146
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Kelowna, BC
Quick question of opinions regarding the front timing cover

If this was not machined with the block, what would you do? Could you bring it down flat with the block or would you have the block remachined and recleaned with the cover in place?

Had I known what i know now I would have driven 4 hours to have a different machine shop do my work. I am now fixing the machine shops stupidity.
 
I

IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
Mar 30, 2005
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ttsupra2503;1920718 said:
Quick question of opinions regarding the front timing cover

If this was not machined with the block, what would you do? Could you bring it down flat with the block or would you have the block remachined and recleaned with the cover in place?

Had I known what i know now I would have driven 4 hours to have a different machine shop do my work. I am now fixing the machine shops stupidity.
Click to expand...
Some guys have set the cover up in a Mill and taken it down the the block height, I'd go a thou or 2 under just to be safe.

Bigger issue is having the tensioner bolted on while boring/honing as it pulls #1 cylinder half a thou @ 36ft/lbs.
 
ttsupra2503

ttsupra2503

6'8 BC Giant
Feb 28, 2012
146
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Kelowna, BC
That is what I was thinking IJ. Worth the extra money to get it milled down a touch more. Is there anything else they could have used other then the tensioner to get a square bore? I will be talking to a machine shop I usually work with to see what they think and to see if they can double check my specs.

Has anyone hand milled/filled down the cover flat? if I have to take the motor back to get the bore fixed I will just have them deck it again with the tensioner and cover on but just asking out of curiosity. Hence why I didn't start another thread on the subject
 
ttsupra2503

ttsupra2503

6'8 BC Giant
Feb 28, 2012
146
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16
Kelowna, BC
ok... how did you find that out IJ..... I am taking it down to a different shop that told me the machine shop is only as good as the guy who brought it in and unless the person knows the engine a supra would be a "special build"... luckily he used to own one so I think I am good there. I will be printing anything else I might need to know to give to the guy.
 
ttsupra2503

ttsupra2503

6'8 BC Giant
Feb 28, 2012
146
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16
Kelowna, BC
hmmm..... sounds like something I better get fixed. So if I got new pistons and they are bang on with .010 ring end gap clearance, how much should they have to take out of that piston to fix anything that is now out of wack?
 
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I

IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
Mar 30, 2005
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You want 4 thou per inch top and 5 thou per inch 2nd, if it's going to make good power I'd add a couple of thou to the total or you're going to nip it up first hard run.

Piston to bore depends on the piston construction/material but I tend to go tight and coat the skirts.
 
ttsupra2503

ttsupra2503

6'8 BC Giant
Feb 28, 2012
146
0
16
Kelowna, BC
According to my calculations should put me at around .024 1000/inch ring end gap for that cylinder. that is just simple math and to me that seems like it could be excessive but on only one cylinder. Can you tell me if I am wrong or do you think it would be ok on this motor? I am not doing a big HP build at the moment. I have decided to do a 1jz-vvti swap with a standalone controller later down the road once I have the rest of the car where I want it.
 
I

IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
Mar 30, 2005
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All depends on the finished bore size, but yep low 20's is about right for 500+, under that stick to 4/5 per inch of bore.

Stock Bore would be 14 thou top and 17 thou 2nd.
 
ttsupra2503

ttsupra2503

6'8 BC Giant
Feb 28, 2012
146
0
16
Kelowna, BC
See... reviving this old post was a good thing. I might be able to fix the issue without being too much off the spec's I need to be when I put my motor back together.
 
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