Time for assembly! = )

[thebuddrik]

Ok, I fianaly have most of my parts together, picked up my head form the machinest (not cheap but beautiful), Toyota head set with a few new hoses, ARP studs, & my tested injectors. My new cometic head gasket should be in tomorrow. My question is the company I work for has a Craftsman Microtork Torque wrench but it maxes out at 75 ft.lbs. Is using the max a bad thing or is it gona be fine? The wrench looks new and probably has only been used once.
Thanks

 

[Shytheed Dumas]

With all the money you've spent on the project so far, why not treat yourself to a good torque wrench and never borrow one again? I'm going to, myself.

 

[thebuddrik]

My wife has been so cool so far, I dont want to bend her till she breakes. I am at the $1500 dollar point so far (not including an ebay head that I got burnt on that I am still trying to get my money back on)

 

[Justin727]

Thats cool hopefully all goes well!

 

[87mgte]

Did you read the card from ARP? It says 80 lb/ft and most people go more than that just for shits and giggles, and for insurance. 75 isn't good enough. Just grab another torque wrench from a buddy or buy one and never borrow one again.

 

[KMinAF]

I picked up a Mac 1/2 drive torque wrench for $30.00 at the local pawn shop.

A good torque wrench is critical when tightening things like bearing caps, head bolts, front crank pulleys and lug nuts.

Spend the money and do it right the first time.

As an aside note, verify the valve clearance before installing the engine.

 

[Shytheed Dumas]

Are there any brand recommendations for torque wrenches?

 

[Keros]

Craftsman is probably good enough, under the assumption that it comes with a calibration test sheet. Get what's available but make sure it has been calibrated. If it doesn't have a calibration sheet with it, take it back.

Generally, the more you pay the tougher it'll be thus the longer it will last. No sense in paying snap-on prices for something you'll use once a month and then set on a shelf.

 

[thebuddrik]

Took the advice fellas.
I am pretty sure that this will get the job done. Brand new Proto 1/2" 30-150 lb, with certifacite.
Thanks fellas!

 

[gaboonviper85]

buying new tools makes me happy! Flagged down the snap-on truck this morning.

 

[suprahero]

Did you read the card from ARP? It says 80 lb/ft and most people go more than that just for shits and giggles, and for insurance. 75 isn't good enough. Just grab another torque wrench from a buddy or buy one and never borrow one again.

My ARP head studs came in yesterday and this is what it says:
Torque values are based on 75% of the fasteners yield strength. Use the manufacturers torques sequence but do not use the engine manufacturers turque specs. Torque the nuts to 70 ft. lbs. for ARP MOLLY ASSEMBLY LUBRICANT or torque to 85 ft. lbs. with 30 wt. motor oil.

Due to the expansion rate of ALUMINUM it is recommended that the torque should be 65 ft. lbs. with ARP MOLLY ASSEMBLY LUBRICANT.

I've always heard to torque them down to 75-80 ft. lbs, but now I"m not so sure.

 

[thebuddrik]

how do you guys clean the carbon build up off of the pistons?

 

[thebuddrik]

I got all of the carbon off of the pistons and I pollished the deck surface clean. The problem is the head is under 20 RA, but the block looks bad, at least compaired to the head. I don't know what to do. I have a cometic 2mm that calls for 50 or less RA and I also have a stock gasket. I really needed to get the car running this weekend, it is my DD. I guess I will sleep on it.

 

[Rennat]

i've heard stories of people just cleaning the block, and getting the head decked, and there fine...

but you went through all that trouble and you didnt rebuild the bottom end? no money?

 

[Zumtizzle]

you went through all that trouble and you didnt rebuild the bottom end? no money?

..................................................................The 7M Bottom end will last forever if it's always seen oil and well taken care of. Hell even my Head Gasket was original.

If you want to see a high HP example, PM Dr. Jones.

 

[thebuddrik]

motor is still in the car. All of this was just to replace a burnt valve. It is just a bone stock car, not a race car. please only useful advice. Any one else?
Thanks.

 

[Zumtizzle]

If you feel up for it. Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner.

 

[Rennat]

oh ok, i didnt know you had a completely stock car...
head gaskets are always fun jobs.

did you get new injector seals/o-rings? mine were rock hard when i took them off!