This is probably a noob question but.. bolting on pressure plate

OfnaRcR4

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Oct 2, 2006
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Trying to finish my clutch and am fairly certain that i'm doing everything correctly, just seems kind of odd in my eyes the way the tsrm explains it. If i get this right i'm supposed to bolt on the pressure plate through the inspection plates correct? How do you guys turn the engine to get to the next bolt hole? I've been just turning it by wedging a screwdriver in there and pressing against the bellhousing which is taking forever. Am i doing everything correct?
Thx in advance
 

Devin LeBlanc

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Apr 7, 2010
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The correct way is to do it through the inspection hole that is right, If you are pulling the transmission then just remove the clutch fork and the trans will pull off. When installing you have to put the pressure plate and clutch on the trans and then but it up against the motor and bolt the pressure plate on to the flywheel through the inspection covers..

The proper way to rotate the motor is with a 19mm socket on a breaker bar or ratchet, you can rotate it by the crank pulley bolt.
 

gats

Rebuilding... Slowly!
Mar 3, 2009
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A 19mm socket with a breaker bar on the crank pulley nut is a far better way to turn the motor over.
Take the spark plugs out if you wanna make turning it over even easier :icon_wink
 

toyotanos

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If the engine/trans are out of the car and you're confident in your aligning skillz, you can bolt the clutch disc and PP onto the engine prior to mating the engine and trans. You just need to be careful to get the clutch disc centered. I've done it that way both times I pulled my engine out without a problem!
[SUB]I also do it like that for just about every other clutch I work on[/SUB]

Edit: If the engine is stll in the car then Devin has got it right. Much easier to get the trans installed that way!
 

Another MkIII

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Feb 22, 2009
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The Supra is one of the easier cars I've worked on to be completely honest. On the original topic, a 19mm socket and breaker on the front pulley is the easiest option.
-AM3
 

OfnaRcR4

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Oct 2, 2006
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Finished the job thanks to some buddies. Wasn't too bad at all. There are a few issues that arose on the test drive. The clutch pedal seems quite different. It enguages like riiight at the bottom of the throw and it seems to be a bit more difficult to get it into gear. Also i did notice that when i did a higher boost 3rd gear pull (Maybe 15 lbs? I say maybe because my boost gauge is on the fritz) it did slip a bit. Got scared and turned the boost way down. Does it just need to seat?
It's a new stock disc with an upgraded pressure plate from DM and a used (unturned) flywheel. FYI
Feel free to move this to general MK3 mods, i don't know why i posted it in the engines forum.
 

OfnaRcR4

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Oct 2, 2006
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Just spoke to one of my automotive teachers at school and I told him that when I pushed the slave back in it pushed back out on its own. He said that wasn't normal and it made sense to me so I'm going to first bleed it and see if that helps. Other than that anyone have an idea of what it could be?
 

mkIIIman089

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Mar 30, 2005
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OfnaRcR4;1683467 said:
Also i did notice that when i did a higher boost 3rd gear pull (Maybe 15 lbs? I say maybe because my boost gauge is on the fritz) it did slip a bit. Got scared and turned the boost way down.

Theres a chance you've already nuked it by doing that.

You also really need to bleed it, or something else went horribly wrong. It should disengage well before halfway down on the pedal.
 

OfnaRcR4

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Doubt it. I have pretty keen senses about me and when it slipped the other two people in the car with me didn't even notice cause it only did it for a fraction of a second. Tried bleeding it the other day hoping I would get some air out of out but all I got was raw shit then my master cylinder died so another one on its way.
 

OfnaRcR4

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Oct 2, 2006
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Yeah after consulting my slowly reacting brain (been overloaded lately) I've realized that its supposed to do that to keep it on the fork. Thanks for all the input and help peoples.
 

D.J.T.

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OfnaRcR4;1683801 said:
Just spoke to one of my automotive teachers at school and I told him that when I pushed the slave back in it pushed back out on its own. He said that wasn't normal and it made sense to me so I'm going to first bleed it and see if that helps. Other than that anyone have an idea of what it could be?

The slave cylinder pin? i couldn't push that bitch back in, it was too tough.. the slave popping out is normal, but bleed it to be safe & If your clutch starts slipping adjust the clutch pedal. Mine was brand new & was slipping BAD at 3K rpm, my old man came adjusted the brake pedal & no more slippage, that is what must have killed the other clutch i had.