The last word on high volume oil pump for 7M's ?

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bbaacchhyy

Guest
I have read bits and pieces on a number of forums (CS, SM SF and others) that whilst there are one or two that are marketed as high volume, there is no such beast.

Threads have been created in trying to make one by extending the housing or making other gears etc, but they have all come to a screaming halt.

I guess before I put the new engine in teh car, I'd like to be a little more sure that I won't ever have any rod-knock problems and instyalling an upgraded pump would be great (apart from shimming the required pressure relief valves).

Does anyone know of anyone/anything that has been developed ?

Cheers

Michael bachmann
 
B

bbaacchhyy

Guest
gixxer750 said:
ask IJ about his oil accumulator. That seems like a great idea, and it would def. help prevent rod knock

I am not sold on the idea of an accumulator as it does not fix the cause, rather it fixes the effect.

The primary reason for it is at startup and shutdown and for the odd occasion when oil pressure dips below a set amount.

I'd prefer a HV oil pump rather than the accumulator. BTW, have already talked with Ian about this.

Cheers

Michael B
 

GrimJack

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No such animal.

The best solution I have seen for the oiling system is the one that the Doc was talking about on SF - replace the oil filter mount with the NA version, get a remote oil filter kit, a larger oil cooler, and hook it up to run all the oil through the filter into the cooler then into the engine. No worries about bypass valves sending oil this way or that, part of the oil getting cooled while part is not, etc.

Either that or the dry sump method that was introduced by... Adjuster? I'm not too sure about the credit on that one...
 

IJ.

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GJ: I took it a step further and use NA blocks so no squirters!

GTE Pump>NA Block> Remote Adaptor>Remote Filter>B&M Thermostat>B&M Oil cooler>T piece>Moroso Accumulator>Remote Adaptor.
 
B

bbaacchhyy

Guest
GrimJack said:
No such animal.

The best solution I have seen for the oiling system is the one that the Doc was talking about on SF - replace the oil filter mount with the NA version, get a remote oil filter kit, a larger oil cooler, and hook it up to run all the oil through the filter into the cooler then into the engine. No worries about bypass valves sending oil this way or that, part of the oil getting cooled while part is not, etc.

Either that or the dry sump method that was introduced by... Adjuster? I'm not too sure about the credit on that one...

Just a quick question that no-one has previously answered.

For a reason, I have retained the Turbo filter mount and used a sandwich type thermostat (cause I had it) to run to a full flow oil cooler, but simply blocked the std GTE bypass type oil cooler. Is theer any dramas with that ?

Cheers

Michael B
 
B

bbaacchhyy

Guest
bbaacchhyy said:
Just a quick question that no-one has previously answered.

For a reason, I have retained the Turbo filter mount and used a sandwich type thermostat (cause I had it) to run to a full flow oil cooler, but simply blocked the std GTE bypass type oil cooler. Is there any dramas with that ?

Cheers

Michael B

Hiya Grim,

To an extent yes, but the issue that I have highlighted is the query.

To change it on the car is a pain, and will probably do it on the net engine to go in, but is there any issues with what I plan to do for the engine in teh car ?

Cheers

Michael B
 

siman

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GrimJack said:
No such animal.

The best solution I have seen for the oiling system is the one that the Doc was talking about on SF - replace the oil filter mount with the NA version, get a remote oil filter kit, a larger oil cooler, and hook it up to run all the oil through the filter into the cooler then into the engine. No worries about bypass valves sending oil this way or that, part of the oil getting cooled while part is not, etc.

Either that or the dry sump method that was introduced by... Adjuster? I'm not too sure about the credit on that one...


I can take that credit Grim, LOL

I am positive that the N/A filter bracket mod would greatly improve oil pressure...those bypass valves are just simply retarded. That is the root I am going in with my next 7m build (very soon infact).

-Jonathan
 

mk3forme

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ok guys so Ij's post confused me. No squirters? Arent the squirters a benefit to the gte's? And how would it help handle the volume problem if they arent there??
 

cjsupra90

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the oil squirters are really only bennifical in constant load type conditions such as road racing or hauling heavy loads where the power is being used a lot more then normal street driving. the squirters are a direct leak of oil pressure once they become active and therefore drain off oil volume back to the pan that could be going to the bearings.
 

gixxer750

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I've been thinking of using an N/A block for my next engine. Where do I get the turbo oil feed source from though? Just drill in to the oil galley and tap it out?
 

siman

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Your going to love this guys,

Even though our GTE's have oil squirters, they are very poorly positioned under the piston.

the squirter heads dont even have a even amount of spray. Neither does the oil coat the whole bottom of the piston(s).

In essence, you get hot spots on the piston, which can fatigue metal and cause bad combustion as well.

http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogue/e050-051_piston.html

I was reading on TOMEI's website about their piston designes that have oil channels ( cooling channels) for oil squirters to shoot for and the oil gets fed around the piston wall just under the rings in its own channel....pretty cool.

ep050_10_ondo.gif

ep050_09_cool.gif


something to think about.

-Jonathan
 

IJ.

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CJ: Good info!

Gixxer: There is a 2nd tapped port for the oil supply along the block and the return is a bit of a bitch to drill but if you're careful it can be done no probs (I did mine)
 

chevyeater

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A new stock pump is working good for me. I've eliminated the stock turbo filter mount and installed a full flow cooler with remote filter, along with the accusump. I'm seeing ~ 38 psi at a hot idle and ~60 psi cruising at 2500 rpm, the lowest it has gotten is ~32 at idle after an hour of back to back WOT 3rd and 4th gear pulls. The turbo oil squirters are still in place (I'll be needing them and they do work).
 

IJ.

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Chev: Brian, have you ever tested a squirter to see what the volume is at 50 psi? (NOT being a cockhead here just never checked how much they flow)

My feelings on the squirters aren't based on any real data just a gutt feeling and quite a few years of building NA/t's.
 

chevyeater

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No, I didn't measure the volume of the output. All I did was make sure they all flowed well visually.

What is your oil pressure like without the squirters Ian?
 

cjsupra90

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like Ian, Brian, orthers and myself found out and have stated, there is no real need for a higher volume pump as the stock turbo pump along with a few other changes will net perfectly fine oil pressure.
 

mk3forme

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Interesting info guys. Thanks But honestly it sounds like Chevy is getting the same pressure roughly that IJ is getting without the squirters. Now the question is, is the direct leak of oil pressure from the squirters that CJ refers to, a real issue or not?
 
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