T61 Bolt on Turbo by Cx Racing
- Thread starter Steve_N
- Start date
IJ.;1564477 said:
dynapack
looks like the tuner didnt set the time or max rpm correctly, or let off before it hit the redline set by the dyno
boost seems to hold pretty steady, id say just preload the WG actuator more
guys here seem to shim/preload the stock wastegate past 15psi too, the actuator on the t61 is a 5psi spring?
or if anything try and find a 15psi WG actuator
IJ.;1564480 said:
hehe
well the graph is RPM vs Power so if he backed off and the revs dropped it would go backwards!, id say he was changing into the right gearyeah i might pre-load the actuator more, it does hold pretty stead and its as if the gates blowing open, look at the actual spool, its very steady, id expect to see more of a exponential increase of boost
I've put about 6000km on the turbo now, havn't checked for shaft play in about 1500km, ill be removing the turbo to fiddle with the wastegate so ill inspect it then. i wouldn't mind fixing the actuator sliding issue either, IJ maybe you can help on this. what would be the best way to stop the waste gate flapper arm shaft from sliding?
Also how much preload should i be applying to it in terms of MM ie 10mm preload?
i'm using half a hole currently...
the waste gate flapper arm its self is connected to a rod and in normal operation lets say rotates horizontally, the shaft that goes through the exhaust housing and connects to the linkage is able to move vertical, this means the flapper arm can get stuck on the side of the housing and not properly cover the wastegate port (its possible that its not sealing currently) ill get photo's when its off my ct26's don't have this same kind of movement.
It's a design fault.
the waste gate flapper arm its self is connected to a rod and in normal operation lets say rotates horizontally, the shaft that goes through the exhaust housing and connects to the linkage is able to move vertical, this means the flapper arm can get stuck on the side of the housing and not properly cover the wastegate port (its possible that its not sealing currently) ill get photo's when its off my ct26's don't have this same kind of movement.
It's a design fault.
Im quite surprised and disappointed with the spool time this turbo is showing, hopefully this is only a WG issue
No doubt there is a underlying issue. i wouldn't make final judgement just yet...
maybe someone else can comment on boost they saw with just the actuator (no boost controller)
Once i fix the issues i've gotta rebook for some more dyno time, it is possible i got a lemon of a wastegate actuator with a weak spring...
maybe someone else can comment on boost they saw with just the actuator (no boost controller)
Once i fix the issues i've gotta rebook for some more dyno time, it is possible i got a lemon of a wastegate actuator with a weak spring...
ive seen that the ebay turbo just needs a new actuator, and the turbo are good most of the time, a friend of mine got a 14g turbo from ebay, and its good, he just changed the actuator and its fine
i've got a few other actuators laying round, might see what i can come up with.
I wish the rain would hold off for a day or two, Melbourne weather sucks
the two problems i've got currently are,
1) Turbo spools late and finally hits full boost at peak power
2) My clutch does not hold...
I've spoken to a few places about w58 clutch's and alot of them say the diaphrams for the 225mm clutches are piss weak and wont clamp shit (which is exactly what it feels like)
So its either R154 time or try and find twin plate.
I wish the rain would hold off for a day or two, Melbourne weather sucks
the two problems i've got currently are,
1) Turbo spools late and finally hits full boost at peak power
2) My clutch does not hold...
I've spoken to a few places about w58 clutch's and alot of them say the diaphrams for the 225mm clutches are piss weak and wont clamp shit (which is exactly what it feels like)
So its either R154 time or try and find twin plate.
yeah, remember that w58's are pretty much toyota 4cyl truck transmissions
even if you get a twin plate for the w58, you can't really beat on it, especially if you are running wide tires & plan to launch your car hard
find an r154a & put a act on it, or a twin plate is always good
even if you get a twin plate for the w58, you can't really beat on it, especially if you are running wide tires & plan to launch your car hard
find an r154a & put a act on it, or a twin plate is always good
Fuzz420
Are U Here 2 take My Baby
I run a spec stage 3+ in my w-58, its hold 400wtq fine for me,its rated at 465ctq. It may be an option if you dont want to go through the r154 swap
i'll still have to weigh up the options, i'd like to go R154 anyway as its a stronger box.
went out for some logging runs last night, seems the Bov was leaking and inhibiting spool
I've still got a few issues with idle once warm and throttle pumps, but all the top end stuff is spot on!
Best of all i checked my intake temperatures, at full boost the charge temperature is the same as off boost, maybe 0.5deg C above tops, which matches the efficiency maps i did a while ago
UPDATE: fixed my throttle pumps and harshness now drives pretty damn near factory
went out for some logging runs last night, seems the Bov was leaking and inhibiting spool
I've still got a few issues with idle once warm and throttle pumps, but all the top end stuff is spot on!
Best of all i checked my intake temperatures, at full boost the charge temperature is the same as off boost, maybe 0.5deg C above tops, which matches the efficiency maps i did a while ago
UPDATE: fixed my throttle pumps and harshness now
drives pretty damn near factory
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Backed the boost off to 12-13psi to save the clutch until i can sort out a replacement gearbox/clutch, then ill ramp it up to 20psi.
At this level still should be making considerable power... (250-260rwkw)
Playing with the controller today i saw 20psi on the gauge (straight after the clutch slipped)
It's no fun when the power doesn't make it to the wheels
At this level still should be making considerable power... (250-260rwkw)
Playing with the controller today i saw 20psi on the gauge (straight after the clutch slipped)
It's no fun when the power doesn't make it to the wheels
Ok, so yesterday i've been doing some testing,
we've had a pretty cold snap here (we only get snow on mountains in Melbourne)
Ambient temperatures have been around 8-13deg C at night, the turbo pretty good at night, there is still lag of about a second before any boost is seen, and i can usually get fullboost out of it in 2nd gear.
During the day its been about 20deg maybe 22deg, and lots more lag (as much as before it got tuned) about a 2 second wait before any boost is seen.
its possible the actuator faulty. I'll be removing the turbo shortly to investigate and see if i can resolve this issue, ill probably test the actuator and compare it to the stock ct26 actuator
we've had a pretty cold snap here (we only get snow on mountains in Melbourne)
Ambient temperatures have been around 8-13deg C at night, the turbo pretty good at night, there is still lag of about a second before any boost is seen, and i can usually get fullboost out of it in 2nd gear.
During the day its been about 20deg maybe 22deg, and lots more lag (as much as before it got tuned) about a 2 second wait before any boost is seen.
its possible the actuator faulty. I'll be removing the turbo shortly to investigate and see if i can resolve this issue, ill probably test the actuator and compare it to the stock ct26 actuator
Might be blowing the flapper off the seat so will need more preload but then you run the risk of creep/overshoot on the top end.
Paradox - it may help to try this procedure to get a solid figure on the pressure required to open the wastegate as well as to verify the correct function of the wastegate and ensure there are no physical restrictions. I know you had said previously there was a design flaw you identified and we are all curious to know more about this.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RhsGjSFUhTw&feature=player_embedded#!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RhsGjSFUhTw&feature=player_embedded#!
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i plan to set up a rig on my work bench with a pressure gauge, the actuator and a bike pump to see exactly when it opens in comparison to a known 6psi actuator i have.
IJ, ill try giving it more pre-load, hopefully my controller should keep it from spiking. it may also not be covering the port completely either, ill find out when i pull the turbo.
i will take photo's of exactly what i mean about the design flaw when i pull the turbo off which should be soon as ill probably pull the gearbox at the same time to replace it.
IJ, ill try giving it more pre-load, hopefully my controller should keep it from spiking. it may also not be covering the port completely either, ill find out when i pull the turbo.
i will take photo's of exactly what i mean about the design flaw when i pull the turbo off which should be soon as ill probably pull the gearbox at the same time to replace it.