T61 Bolt on Turbo by Cx Racing

SupraSean

SPRASEAN MTHRFKR
Mar 3, 2009
487
0
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Pittsburgh, PA
Car is running and Driving! Only took for a short drive before my powersteering line blew. I clocked the center cartridge to fit the "bolt on" oil lines that i had to re-drill holes for anyway. and i'm not sure about the actuator in the way of the piping, i didnt have that problem. Will report further after i fix the p/s problem lol. i only managed like 4 psi. Also as a note, the stock accordian hose did fit on the turbo inlet. it was a stretch but no more than trying to fit in a lex maf lol. Also as a note my accordian hose is almost new.

Edit 8/28: fixed leaks. car runs good, still street tuning though. it seems to lag forever lol, but still pulls hard for 5 psi. I am planning on preloading the wastegate sometime soon. hopefully that helps. atm it doesnt hit full boost till like idk 3500-4000 rpm? and thats only 5 pounds. Still very satisfied with purchase, 5 psi pulls like a stock ct26 at like 10-12 psi. :)
 
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paradox616

New Member
Sep 12, 2008
472
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Melbourne, Australia
Nice job relocating the actuator!

SupraSean;1610243 said:
5 psi pulls like a stock ct26 at like 10-12 psi. :)

I agree, Something to note, at 5psi i made 180rwkw or 241rwhp which is as much power as others have made @ 11psi on a ct26! I think I'm going to pressurise the compressor housing of the turbo as I suspect it leaks (a small amount) some turbo's run a O-ring sealing the compressor housing to the turbo core however this turbo does not, Might be able to pick up some more spool there, but I'm pretty happy with mine as is, If anything its a little too big.

See the pictures of inside the turbo, shouldn't be very hard to seal, What do you think Ian?
p1610661_1.jpg

p1610661_2.jpg
 

IwantMKIII

WVU MAEngineering
Jun 12, 2007
2,477
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Perkasie, PA
paradox616;1610661 said:
Nice job relocating the actuator!



I agree, Something to note, at 5psi i made 180rwkw or 241rwhp which is as much power as others have made @ 11psi on a ct26! I think I'm going to pressurise the compressor housing of the turbo as I suspect it leaks (a small amount) some turbo's run a O-ring sealing the compressor housing to the turbo core however this turbo does not, Might be able to pick up some more spool there, but I'm pretty happy with mine as is, If anything its a little too big.

Not to burst your bubble but I produced 260 WHP and more torque at a mere 7.7psi on the stock ct :)

Though lately I feel like im producing less than that with a 57trim at 15psi and I can't figure out why :(
 

danielMA70

New Member
Apr 14, 2009
14
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Germany
i´ve bought this turbo too and i have had all issues which are described here in this thread....
so now i´m testing that turbo and i think the reactance is a little bit to late.... so i measured the turbo starts to boost at 3000 rpm and at 4000 rpm full boost.... im driving with 11,6 psi ....

so are there more aggreements....
 
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IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
Mar 30, 2005
38,728
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61
I come from a land down under
paradox616;1610661 said:
Nice job relocating the actuator!



I agree, Something to note, at 5psi i made 180rwkw or 241rwhp which is as much power as others have made @ 11psi on a ct26! I think I'm going to pressurise the compressor housing of the turbo as I suspect it leaks (a small amount) some turbo's run a O-ring sealing the compressor housing to the turbo core however this turbo does not, Might be able to pick up some more spool there, but I'm pretty happy with mine as is, If anything its a little too big.

See the pictures of inside the turbo, shouldn't be very hard to seal, What do you think Ian?

I seal mine with some Copper RTV Gordon.
 

supraguy@aol

Well-Known Member
Dec 30, 2005
4,232
37
48
Atlanta
This is all leaning me towards a 57 trim, to be honest.
Clock the catridge, custom feed/ drain lines, re-weld the wastegate, tack weld or collar the wastegate flapper,
all so I can get full boost 500-1000rpm later... My goal is ~400hp max. I think the 57 can get me close to this with
none of the hassle.
 

Poodles

I play with fire
Jul 22, 2006
16,757
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Fort Worth, TX
That's because nobody is really pushing it hard yet. Bigger turbo = more lag = won't really show what it can do until higher boost levels. Give it some time.
 

SupraSean

SPRASEAN MTHRFKR
Mar 3, 2009
487
0
0
Pittsburgh, PA
i plan on preloading the wastegate sometime this week. but as a side note i stayed neck and neck with a modified lt1 camaro last night:) @ 5psi. i want a little more, so how would i preload the wastegate? ive never done it before, i noticed that there are threads and a nut on the actuator rod. do i loosen the nut and try to turn the rod? and if so which direction? any input would be great. Also, i now have 200 miles on the turbo with no complaints, the flapper is staying closed, at least for now(knock on wood).car is still running great. im beggining to figure out where the sweet spots are on this turbo. my only concern is that i believe that 4.11's are not good gears for this turbo, although when im running it out it stays right about optimal boost(4k revs) i only have 2k to run it out before i shift, but she pulls hard the whole way:) wow imrambling....

---------- Post added at 01:04 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:50 PM ----------

supraguy@aol;1611207 said:
This is all leaning me towards a 57 trim, to be honest.
Clock the catridge, custom feed/ drain lines, re-weld the wastegate, tack weld or collar the wastegate flapper,
all so I can get full boost 500-1000rpm later... My goal is ~400hp max. I think the 57 can get me close to this with
none of the hassle.

clocking the cartridge take 5 mins. they sell a custom line kit. you just have to reim out the holes a little bigger for the drain. the wastegate movement i dont think is neccisary, i didnt have any problems whatsoever. and the flapper weld also takes just a few minutes. so in retrospect it just sounds like alot of work. But i also agree that if your not looking for more than 400, maybe a 57-26 is your best option. I'm getting use to how to drive with the lag, it gets easier:) good luck with either route
 

Zazzn

l33t M0derat0r (On some other forum) n00blet here
Apr 1, 2005
969
6
18
Toronto/SF Bay area
God this thread needs to be erased and remade with cliffs. I'm reading up on this for my buddy still. Anyways, why doesn't someone fing work with CX racing to get these issues FIXED. They claimed they where willing to fix it.

Does the grub screw eventual loosen up? I mean there isn't a grove for it and no grease.

Honestly after seeing the results of this turbo I wouldn't recommend it to anyone. Unless you are happy with 1000 RPM of power band. It's lazy (partly due to the WG issues if not completely due to that) doesn't seem to post impressive numbers unless 400 HP @ 20 psi make you happy for 1500 RPM of power.

An upgraded 60-1 CT will post 400 WHP@20 psi and give you full boost just after 3300 RPM.. This turbo doesn't make sense to me if it doesn't start performing better... I mean 500 isn't that cheap... Another 500 and you have a SP61 GT which WILL PERFORM

I tuned my buddy SP61 gt to 440 WHP @ 17 PSI and 400 FT TQ @ 4000 RPM.

I don't know about you but a well tuned CT26 NON upgraded will out perform that CX racing turbo in it's current form.... 3000 RPM 400 FT TQ and 350 WHP pushing the CT hard.... I'll wave as I put buses on you while you try to spool and keep in boost every gear.
I know the SP61 GT made over 400 FT TQ @ 4000 rpm on my buddy's 7m when I tuned it.


Please for the love of god someone let CXracing know what the problems are.
 

Zazzn

l33t M0derat0r (On some other forum) n00blet here
Apr 1, 2005
969
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Toronto/SF Bay area
OK thank me later since I don't even have a 7m.. Sent this to CXracing.

Hello,

We, the community have found many of the downfalls of this turbo which keep it form selling at it's potential. I was wondering if you are interested in working with me to get this fixed once and for all.

Here's a list of the issues.

#1
-Oil lines need to come with the turbo as a kit
#2
-WG flapper does not shut properly making the turbo extremely laggy
#3
WG spring set way too low (3-5 PSI)
#4
WG arm mount touches stock exhaust elbow.
#5
Exhaust wheel too big and laggy or wheel is clipped and should not be.

Please contact me back if you would like to work with the community and me to get these issues fixed.
 

supraguy@aol

Well-Known Member
Dec 30, 2005
4,232
37
48
Atlanta
I like your gripe list, Zazzn, and appreciate the initiative.
And like I said- I'd be more inclined towards this turbo if it was more plug&play.
For now i'll aim for a 57 trim.
 

IwantMKIII

WVU MAEngineering
Jun 12, 2007
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Thanks for contacting CXracing. However, you jump to conclusions about the power output. The potential is there for over 500, the question is, what's stopping it from even coming close to that mark. Until more people get numbers at HIGHER boost than 5 or 10psi like most are doing, its tough to make assumptions such as your own.
 

paradox616

New Member
Sep 12, 2008
472
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Melbourne, Australia
IJ, Cheers :) i might give it a shot.

IwantMKIII;1611444 said:
Thanks for contacting CXracing. However, you jump to conclusions about the power output. The potential is there for over 500, the question is, what's stopping it from even coming close to that mark. Until more people get numbers at HIGHER boost than 5 or 10psi like most are doing, its tough to make assumptions such as your own.

Exactly, From my calculations the turbo is just entering its peak efficiency at the boost levels i'm running, I'm seeing no change in charge temperature on boost which confirms this. My readings were taken on a Dyna pack so the output will be lower than a roller dyno. its not fair to make assumptions such as your own with second hand information, My cars not finished. i can only speak from my own experiences and i KNOW i have boost leaks left to eliminate.

FYI i have contacted CX racing in the past about the waste gate issues and sent them detailed pictures. Without an accurate description there isn't much they can do.
 

Zazzn

l33t M0derat0r (On some other forum) n00blet here
Apr 1, 2005
969
6
18
Toronto/SF Bay area
IwantMKIII;1611444 said:
Thanks for contacting CXracing. However, you jump to conclusions about the power output. The potential is there for over 500, the question is, what's stopping it from even coming close to that mark. Until more people get numbers at HIGHER boost than 5 or 10psi like most are doing, its tough to make assumptions such as your own.

What are you talking about I have first hand knowledge I've been watching closely my good buddy who is doing 18 PSI and only making low 400's sure 500 HP is there but a spool at 5000 to get to 500 is absolutely STUPID. I make 650 on my 2jz and spool up by 3900 on my PT67. A turbo that spools up at 5k like this one should be an 80MM. Getting a smaller exhaust wheel will not necessarily make less power. Especially if you only plan to run Pump gas... You want the turbo to almost be at it's maximum at 20 PSI if you run pump gas mainly, which I'm sure most of the budget minded mk3 owners are looking at. Wouldn't you rather a turbo that makes 400 TQ at 3800 RPM to 6500 than one that does it at 5000 and has the possibility to make 100 more WHP if you run 10 more PSI with race gas?

Regardless they replied asking me to call them, so I'll give them a call and explain the troubles... It shouldn't be too hard to fix as I'm sure they can bench test this WG issue and most likely fix it... Also if they can change the exhaust wheel to be similar to a P trim garrett wheel you will have WAY better spool and probably the same max power from the turbo... The problem is right now the wheels are mismatched. Also you are telling me you wouldn't like P&P oil lines to come with the turbo?
 

CBatstone

Burlington, VT &Wolfeboro
Sep 22, 2006
84
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www.thirtythree.org
I'm not sure why more people aren't having the spacing issue with the actuator hitting the outlet piping of the turbine housing. The actuator housing would touch the silicone connector and it was not possible to get a clean fit which meant boost leaks to me if this was not fixed. With everything apart it was no more than a centimeter between the actuator and the cast outlet section.

-

I'm interested to see if there is any benefit of sealing the compressor side of the housing as you are describing above, Paradox. I'm hoping this will all work out with drivability and all, I want it to be streetable without too much lag so I hope I made the right choice here. If not it would not be the first lesson learned with my supra project, but I'll hold out to see how it performs for myself right now.

This week I finish the fuel fittings, rear suspension bushings and installation of MAP/IAT sensors. Run through and verify my readings and then start the car on the MAFTPRO and begin tuning. Wish me luck!
 

Justin727

T-virus infected
Zazzn;1611563 said:
What are you talking about I have first hand knowledge I've been watching closely my good buddy who is doing 18 PSI and only making low 400's sure 500 HP is there but a spool at 5000 to get to 500 is absolutely STUPID. I make 650 on my 2jz and spool up by 3900 on my PT67. A turbo that spools up at 5k like this one should be an 80MM. Getting a smaller exhaust wheel will not necessarily make less power. Especially if you only plan to run Pump gas... You want the turbo to almost be at it's maximum at 20 PSI if you run pump gas mainly, which I'm sure most of the budget minded mk3 owners are looking at. Wouldn't you rather a turbo that makes 400 TQ at 3800 RPM to 6500 than one that does it at 5000 and has the possibility to make 100 more WHP if you run 10 more PSI with race gas?

Regardless they replied asking me to call them, so I'll give them a call and explain the troubles... It shouldn't be too hard to fix as I'm sure they can bench test this WG issue and most likely fix it... Also if they can change the exhaust wheel to be similar to a P trim garrett wheel you will have WAY better spool and probably the same max power from the turbo... The problem is right now the wheels are mismatched. Also you are telling me you wouldn't like P&P oil lines to come with the turbo?


Good job! I agree with you sir
 

supraguy@aol

Well-Known Member
Dec 30, 2005
4,232
37
48
Atlanta
Regardless of it's peak potential, I think a 57 trim will be my choice, given my more modest power goals.
However, later on if my desire grows to 500hp, maybe i'll be interested in CX's T61, version 2.0

: )
 

SupraSean

SPRASEAN MTHRFKR
Mar 3, 2009
487
0
0
Pittsburgh, PA
Zazzn;1611563 said:
What are you talking about I have first hand knowledge I've been watching closely my good buddy who is doing 18 PSI and only making low 400's sure 500 HP is there but a spool at 5000 to get to 500 is absolutely STUPID. I make 650 on my 2jz and spool up by 3900 on my PT67. A turbo that spools up at 5k like this one should be an 80MM. Getting a smaller exhaust wheel will not necessarily make less power. Especially if you only plan to run Pump gas... You want the turbo to almost be at it's maximum at 20 PSI if you run pump gas mainly, which I'm sure most of the budget minded mk3 owners are looking at. Wouldn't you rather a turbo that makes 400 TQ at 3800 RPM to 6500 than one that does it at 5000 and has the possibility to make 100 more WHP if you run 10 more PSI with race gas?

Regardless they replied asking me to call them, so I'll give them a call and explain the troubles... It shouldn't be too hard to fix as I'm sure they can bench test this WG issue and most likely fix it... Also if they can change the exhaust wheel to be similar to a P trim garrett wheel you will have WAY better spool and probably the same max power from the turbo... The problem is right now the wheels are mismatched. Also you are telling me you wouldn't like P&P oil lines to come with the turbo?

You are also not taking into consideration that A Stock ct26 loses effiency after 14psi, and that it generally doesnt hold boost till redline. this turbo at 5 psi is making what my stock ct made at 10-12 pounds, and it pulls all the way to 6k with out dropping a bit. im not saying,,,im just saying.... to each their own,
 

paradox616

New Member
Sep 12, 2008
472
0
0
Melbourne, Australia
Zazzn;1611563 said:
What are you talking about I have first hand knowledge I've been watching closely my good buddy who is doing 18 PSI and only making low 400's sure 500 HP is there but a spool at 5000 to get to 500 is absolutely STUPID. I make 650 on my 2jz and spool up by 3900 on my PT67. A turbo that spools up at 5k like this one should be an 80MM. Getting a smaller exhaust wheel will not necessarily make less power. Especially if you only plan to run Pump gas... You want the turbo to almost be at it's maximum at 20 PSI if you run pump gas mainly, which I'm sure most of the budget minded mk3 owners are looking at. Wouldn't you rather a turbo that makes 400 TQ at 3800 RPM to 6500 than one that does it at 5000 and has the possibility to make 100 more WHP if you run 10 more PSI with race gas?

Regardless they replied asking me to call them, so I'll give them a call and explain the troubles... It shouldn't be too hard to fix as I'm sure they can bench test this WG issue and most likely fix it... Also if they can change the exhaust wheel to be similar to a P trim garrett wheel you will have WAY better spool and probably the same max power from the turbo... The problem is right now the wheels are mismatched. Also you are telling me you wouldn't like P&P oil lines to come with the turbo?

I'd have to agree, a smaller exhaust wheel would be nicer, Don't forget the quality of pump gas depends on your region, we can get much high octane petrol down here from the pump.

Cbatstone, Never had that issue with mine. it is a tight fit, Maybe try using a thinner silicon coupler.
 
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Zazzn

l33t M0derat0r (On some other forum) n00blet here
Apr 1, 2005
969
6
18
Toronto/SF Bay area
SupraSean;1611641 said:
You are also not taking into consideration that A Stock ct26 loses effiency after 14psi, and that it generally doesnt hold boost till redline. this turbo at 5 psi is making what my stock ct made at 10-12 pounds, and it pulls all the way to 6k with out dropping a bit. im not saying,,,im just saying.... to each their own,

Supra sean, sorry put your flame suit on.. I apologize in advance.

Haha more of the usual regurgitated bs. It may well be at 65/70% efficiency at 14 PSI @ 5000 RPM but that doesn't mean you won't still make power. All it means is you are not shifting the power to the end of the RPM band by putting a huge honking turbo on and only utilizing part of it's efficiency because it spooled by the time the race was over. I know for a fact you don't have this turbo otherwise you would understand what I'm talking about by just looking at that dyno graph form paradox and my buddy's. Honestly you couldn't pay me to take this turbo the way it's performing right now, I will put MONEY down that I would be faster in a stock CT over this turbo @ 20 PSI.

I know for a fact it's not the efficiency that holds back the ct from posting better numbers then the usual 280-300 WHP. It's simply that the back pressure in the exhaust housing starts to build so high so quickly that the exhaust simply pushes the wg open due to the high pressure in the manifold.

I've had a local friend do this to hold his boost he uses a carb spring which adds 10 more pounds of pressure to the WG spring by attaching it to the WG arm where the actuator connects and the other end on the actuator mount. Read up on the spring mod on the SF for the USDM turbos as they do the same things on mk4's.

Anyways, he's closer to 370 WHP on a stock CT and running 26 PSI (estimated by him running my 420 WHP mk4). Now that's hot air for you!

Where are you getting your numbers? Do you have proof and a dyno?

Each their own? Buy the turbo put it on then apologize to me after you realize what I'm talking about.

I had a t04B back in the day that used to spool at 4500, and it made 450 WHP and 470 ft tq... That turbo was garbage IMO the car wasn't fun or fast you had to drive it like you stole it just to have ANY fun.

Believe me when I say I know what I'm talking about... You want most power for minimal lag... Giving up 3000 RPM of power for 1500 RPM of fun is ALOT to ask....