swaybars:st or tanabe?
- Thread starter marc3
- Start date
whiteline doesn't publish there rates
I do know the adjustable bars on the softest setting are STIFFER than the non-adjustable ones from whiteline. IIRC the non-adjustables where quite a bit stiffer than the other ones on the market...
yes, they're heavier, but it's not unsprung weight, and the handling advantage far outweighs any weight savings...
I do know the adjustable bars on the softest setting are STIFFER than the non-adjustable ones from whiteline. IIRC the non-adjustables where quite a bit stiffer than the other ones on the market...
yes, they're heavier, but it's not unsprung weight, and the handling advantage far outweighs any weight savings...
Light parts are god for race but constant use will make them fail. Look at any Drag racing wheel it will say not intended for highway use. its ment to be used for 15 seconds or less in a burst and inspected before all uses. IE: a race car.
In a car that weights over 3500lbs, 5-10 lbs sprung weight is nothing. maybe -.01 in the 1/4 if your lucky?
Im intrested in what happens if there too stiff aswell. suspension needs to give in order to grip the road, or is there not a suspension product made that is so stiff to the point it will hurt handling?
In a car that weights over 3500lbs, 5-10 lbs sprung weight is nothing. maybe -.01 in the 1/4 if your lucky?
Im intrested in what happens if there too stiff aswell. suspension needs to give in order to grip the road, or is there not a suspension product made that is so stiff to the point it will hurt handling?
Chunks: My car has enough roll stiffness to lift an inside wheel on sharp bends if I go in hard, this used to be a PITA with the T1 Torsen as soon as a wheel is off the ground you lose ALL drive.
The Trutrack Diff has a preload pack to combat this effect.
I know with my car and the custom Koni's adding 1/4 turn of damping really hurt straightline traction but makes it so much nicer above 150mph.
The Trutrack Diff has a preload pack to combat this effect.
I know with my car and the custom Koni's adding 1/4 turn of damping really hurt straightline traction but makes it so much nicer above 150mph.
you can pull a rear wheel off the ground? what size and model tires are you running. thats like serious cornering grip. is that just the whiteline bars? or you have other sweet CNC, water-jetted, aircraft technology, wind tunnel tested, crazy synthetic alloy material, parts like everything else?
Tanabe swaybars are made out of chromemoly. Stock front swaybar weighs just over 15 pounds, Tanabe - right at 9 pounds. Stock rear swaybar weighs right at 5 pounds, Tanabe - just over 6 pounds. I thought the rear Tanabe was lighter than stock but forgot. Still lighter overall than stock . . .
I don't think you could really go wrong with any of the available swaybars. Lighter weight was the main reason I chose Tanabe. They sure got rid of the excessive body roll in my car. I knew I'd have a bit of adjustability with BIC endlinks but haven't even touched them since installation.
I don't think you could really go wrong with any of the available swaybars. Lighter weight was the main reason I chose Tanabe. They sure got rid of the excessive body roll in my car. I knew I'd have a bit of adjustability with BIC endlinks but haven't even touched them since installation.
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wow, thanks guys for all chiming in:icon_bigg
i think i'll just keep my st bar since i already have it!!
i think i'll just keep my st bar since i already have it!!
IJ, what offset you running on the fronts? Any rubbing issues? I have a 255 w/ a 38 offset & the fender will rub sometimes only while turning and through a sharp dip. Used to happen quite often, but with the Megans, its virtually non existant now!
After riding in Noah89T's car for 2000 miles to and from the Chicago meet, I will cast my vote for the ST's. I can't remember his whole suspension set up, but I loved it. Of course that was after I got used to it. He scared the shit out of me with it early in the trip.
Gonna hijack this a little. Can someone post a link to the whiteline's please? Been looking for them for a while, but can't seem to find them for the mkiii.
Doward said:
I know it was pointed out that the Tanabe's are cromo. The ST's are a solid (assuming treated MS..?) bar.
One thing to keep in mind is the transient response of each (as well as fatigue life).
Quick story. ~10years ago, most US kart frames were built from Cromo. They were light and had a long track life, as cromo has a high fatigue resistance (compared to MS) Problem was, they were a bitch to set-up - they were very sensitive to changes (track, tires, chassis adjustments). Not to mention they were hard to drive fast. The europeans built all their chassis out of MS. Their karts were more consistent over a long run, easier to drive fast and offered better overall control (driver and setup) to the cromo counter parts. Downside is, they were fastest for 3-4 race weekends and then would start to fall off (MS would loose elasticity).
No karts are built in cromo anymore, and there is never a shortage of 6-8mo old euro karts for sale....
tekdeus said:
From what I understand overall diameter of the the bar affects it stregth. Although the bar is lighter it is made of a stronger and thicker material. Albeit tanabe bars are hollow. I am also unaware of the thickness of the walls.
Riding in a car that switched from ST's to Tanabe, overall stability felt increased.
Go figure.
The average user of any of these bars will never use the bars or cars full potential, running the parts close to fatigue should not be an issue for most.
Matt-
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Larger rears would be nice I have logs showing wheelspin with the Trac Control off to 100 mph roadspeedGrimsta said:
(It didn't feel like it was spinning)
Our cars have double wishbone suspension...which means:
A certain amount of body roll is necessary on our cars to facilitate proper camber, and an optimum (read that larger) contact patch (area) between the tire and the road. This results in more grip and better (read that faster) steering in and out of a turn.
I'm over simplifying it a bit, so this post isn't 10 pages long, but that's the gist of it.
So yes, while our stock S/Bars are not optimal for performance, and Supras definitely benefit from an upgrade, there comes a point where a sway bar with too much tortional stiffness will negatively affect handling.
I would say that if you are lifting your inside rear wheel in turns, you have exceeded that point.
Hope this helps. :icon_bigg
A certain amount of body roll is necessary on our cars to facilitate proper camber, and an optimum (read that larger) contact patch (area) between the tire and the road. This results in more grip and better (read that faster) steering in and out of a turn.
I'm over simplifying it a bit, so this post isn't 10 pages long, but that's the gist of it.
So yes, while our stock S/Bars are not optimal for performance, and Supras definitely benefit from an upgrade, there comes a point where a sway bar with too much tortional stiffness will negatively affect handling.
I would say that if you are lifting your inside rear wheel in turns, you have exceeded that point.
Hope this helps. :icon_bigg
yes, but it depends on the design of the rest of the suspension...
many people with very stiff springs tend not to need swaybars as bad as someone like me with stock springs...
your suspension has to be seen as a system, not just a bunch of parts...
many people with very stiff springs tend not to need swaybars as bad as someone like me with stock springs...
your suspension has to be seen as a system, not just a bunch of parts...