Supramania community! I need your advice about motors and future stuff.

myastzo

Hobo restorer
Jun 6, 2011
59
0
0
35
Moscow
Hi! My name's Alex. And I live in *ss called russia. I have a Mk3 with a 7m-gte. It had bhg, so I stripped it, decked the block, milled head (it was a little warped), bored cylinders for 0,5 pistons (oem). Installed cometic with arp studs. New spark plugs, spark plug wires, huge rad with e-fans, new silicone hoses, new gaskets and stuff. And. A full kit of Maft Pro. Map, wideband, boost solenoid and so on. I'm waiting for spring to start making it better (new shimmed oil pump, new squirters, relief valve for cooler and things as such). BUT. In here, shops are not so accurate as yours (I think). My crank was (bored? Milled? Forgot) for +0,5 bearings. I havent measured tolerances and now I'm concerned. Which of 2 ways to go???

Way 1:
I'll buy

New engine harness (mine is bad, I'm just tired of fixing it)
New Detonation sensors and other sensors
New Oil pump
New Oil cooler
New Intercooler
New Steering pump
New cps
New coils
New turbo (later)
Afpr kit
Walbro or mk iv pump

Which is $$$ + i just cant setup my maft, it's too complicated. Anyway, for me to setup it right I need to force open loop which is impossible as I readed on the net in millions of posts

OR

Just buy 1jz-gte (same money as everything above) and just install it in and call it a day.

P.S. I wanted to drive a 350 rwhp supra targa in the summer night. But after 4 years of f***ing in the garage to make this car work right (it was just a chassis with windows and wheels when I bought it). Now I just want it to be reliable for every day use.

End.

Thanks for replies in advance...
 

myastzo

Hobo restorer
Jun 6, 2011
59
0
0
35
Moscow
I'll be very thankful for any advices. Maybe a standalone with all of sh*t mentioned above will make it work better? I cant sell the maft in here (there are couple of enthusiasts with them, but not with supras, these cars in here are like u.f.o in here. NO ONE knows anything about them. And no one tunes maft. So. I'm almost alone. Forever alone :))) The new crankshaft costs 1000$, harness 1000$, cps 600$, oil pump 200$, intercooler from driftmotion 450$(but the shipping calculator says it's 1200$ shipping!!!!! Hidious!!!!! My downpipe was 130$ for shipping.
 

1990MA70

Member
Nov 8, 2013
110
0
16
Cochrane, AB
1jz's are not a whole lot of money right now. Talking to importers they say the 2jz is quickly rising in price so i think now would be a good time to buy a 1jz if you were going to get one. I also think that if you are already this far into a 7m might as well stick with it but you could also always just sell it. Personally I had a similar choice and went with the 1jz, I just think there's so much about that motor that's desirable. Reliability in stock form, the high rpm, the sound, the clean look of it, cheaper than the 2jz price wise, and its just meant for the a70 chassis. This of course is all just my personal opinion, And I don't know how different things are in Russia such as getting the harder to find 1jz parts. But i don't think you can go wrong either way. You can check out my 1jz build thread (so far) for a little more inspiration if you like ;)
 

myastzo

Hobo restorer
Jun 6, 2011
59
0
0
35
Moscow
Thanks) I'm being torn apart from the inside. I like the fell of 3 liters and don't need high rpms but maybe its the best way to go)
 

7M4EVR

New Member
Oct 8, 2012
695
0
0
fah, fah away
I'm confused...you say you had your motor rebuilt once already? I'm still unclear why anyone would rebuild a motor without checking the operation of the oil pump, squirters, and knowing if it all went back together within spec?? How do you know it's any better off now than it was with the BHG?

If you just buy a 1J odds are you aren't really going to know the condition of the internals of that either, then your going to be in the same situation with the 1J that you are now with the 7m. My advice to you is get rid of your maft and let your car run off of the stock TCCS. Get a compression test so you know somewhat the condition of your motor. Get a good oil pressure gauge and keep your eye on it, and get the car running right before you shoot for horsepower.

And many of the parts you want to replace on your 7M can be had for MUCH cheaper if you look around on this forum. The problem you are going to have is importing them into Russia. Your in an unlucky country that for one is extremely hard to import items into and also charges an enourmous amount of duties and taxes to import. Hence why shipping costs are so high.
 

myastzo

Hobo restorer
Jun 6, 2011
59
0
0
35
Moscow
Oh yeah, You're right. Stupid place. I cant import the parts, but I have a girl here, who imports supras from japan and sells second hand parts. It was my mistake not to measure everything. And now it is what is killing me. The right tools costs enormous amounts of money, so I can't afford some of them. I could throw away my maft, but what's about fuel cut? The lex afm and 550's are not my way. I understand everything you say but its so hard to choose.
 

7M4EVR

New Member
Oct 8, 2012
695
0
0
fah, fah away
well how does your car run at the moment? Also, you should not be flirting with fuel cut at all until you know how your engine is performing. Like I said my advice is to get the car running right in stock form. Then worry about tuning around fuel cut and upgrades.
 

S.A. supra

New Member
Feb 15, 2009
2,405
0
0
Buda, Texas
Im with 1990ma70. Go 1jz and refresh it. If you can find a jza70 it will slide into a 89+ supra. If not you will need mounts and oil pan.
 

myastzo

Hobo restorer
Jun 6, 2011
59
0
0
35
Moscow
Well it's kinda running. Hard to start. Sometimes stalls. Leans huge when decelerating. I'm not running it more than 3k rpms because of the "rebuid" so i cant tell you for sure... I'm confused due to enormous misunderstanding in various posts about some problems. Maybe1990 supra is right?
 

maxburn

New Member
Jan 12, 2014
235
0
0
Iowa
If you like the 3 liter feel I think a 2jz swap would be about as much work as a 1j from what I can tell.
 

maxburn

New Member
Jan 12, 2014
235
0
0
Iowa
Plus if you go getrag I'm pretty sure you have to change out your differential. Does your car have a r154 in it currently? If so it would be much more cost efficient to just use the 1jz bell housing to bolt the r154 to the 2jz.
 

myastzo

Hobo restorer
Jun 6, 2011
59
0
0
35
Moscow
No, it's W58. But I'll buy one soon :) I've made up my mind. It's 7m for me... Almost new motor, just need a little touch of new parts. I hope it will be reliable. If it will break, then I'll swap it to 1jz... Guys, Thank You for replies...