such a noob question, but have to ask...

[BOOSTEDSUPRA]

im in the middle of chasing down leaks and doing general cleaning on my supra. while im waiting for things to get back from powder coating im checking the head torque. found 3 were not as snug as should be. my lame and totally noob question is...

should i back off the studs and re torque them one at a time, or just re torque them? i dont really see the harm in backing one off at a time and redoing it, then moving to the next... but i thought id ask.

 

[jdub]

Do them all in the TSRM sequence. All you need to to is just "crack" them about a 1/4 turn. Then torque back to spec.

 

[BOOSTEDSUPRA]

Do them all in the TSRM sequence. All you need to to is just "crack" them about a 1/4 turn. Then torque back to spec.

thats what i thought. thanks for clarafying it. i knew the answer, but just couldnt stop myself from 2nd guessing myself. :biglaugh:

 

[Koenigturbo]

This is what I would do: I would divide the torque specs into thirds and thighten it to specs in three steps. So, if your specs are 75 then I would do it increments of 25 L.B.S untill you get to 75 LBS. Wrong or right, that's what I would do on my car.

 

[jdub]

This is what I would do: I would divide the torque specs into thirds and thighten it to specs in three steps. So, if your specs are 75 then I would do it increments of 25 L.B.S untill you get to 75 LBS. Wrong or right, that's what I would do on my car.

For a re-torque (like the question the OP asked), this is completely unnecessary. It would require loosening all the studs and could possibly affect the HG seal.

For an initial install...you are wrong
Suggest you go to the ARP website and read the appropriate subject in the tech area. Specifically, "Torque using a torque wrench".

 

[BOOSTEDSUPRA]

ok, here is an update since im getting pm's about how it went.

i decided to call cometic and arp just to be on the safe side since it isnt a practice i would recomend for anything that leaves my shop. but i wasnt about to take my head off again. the advice i got was to just proceed as if it were an initial install.

to recap, 4 of my head studs were 1/2 to 3/4 turn off from spec!!!!!! i was NOT happy. once i get my syuff back from powder coat and a vender SHIPS MY SHIT TO MEEEEE :: angry :: i will put it together and post some pic,s

 

[IJ.]

Never had a 7M stay tight across the head after it's been heat cycled 4>5 times, a few of the middle/rear studs are always "loose".

I've been preaching retorques for so many years now, ARP recommend it when you use virgin hardware in an install, I go further than that and do it every build.

 

[BOOSTEDSUPRA]

Never had a 7M stay tight across the head after it's been heat cycled 4>5 times, a few of the middle/rear studs are always "loose".

I've been preaching retorques for so many years now, ARP recommend it when you use virgin hardware in an install, I go further than that and do it every build.

ya, i agree with you. this is my first supra. i have others now, but i learned on this one, the ones loose were....standing in front of car, 3rd, 4th, 5th one on right and one on left side. im hoping not too much damage has happened. no milk in the oil, and plugs looked perfect. so i think i got lucky. well see after atart up. :x:

 

[BOOSTEDSUPRA]

sorry guys, i forgot to put my update on here, ive been slammed at work and ive had some health issues in my family.

ok, everything is back together, as soon as i can get the camera to load up on here, i will get pics and vid up. SO FAR.... no leaks, no water pushing out of overflow anymore. this is what i did...

stripped motor down to head.. re torqed it to 95 pounds, put new gaskets on IACV, new hoses everywhere, did some re grounding of sensors that i saw in stickys on here, and i gotta say, made a difference. new valve cover gaskets with new bolts. had them powder coated, msd wires, ngk irridium plugs, jap hight, aaaaaand i cant remember what else, oh yea, i had the n/a lower hose on the car, but i finally put the right one on it. WHO THE HELL designed that idiotic thing!! lol

so to sum it up it worked. car is running very very good. i HIGHLY recomend periodicly re torqueing your head.

 

[jdub]

stripped motor down to head.. re torqed it to 95 pounds

"Then torque back to spec" was what I said. I hope you realize you over torqued those studs (ARP spec is 80 ft/lbs w/ moly)...that is not a good thing. If you had gone to the ARP website and read the link I suggested, you would know that

 

[Aliass]

How hard is it to actually get to the head to retorque it , i have acess to all the tools i'd need but im unsure about actually acessing all of the bolts. As every guide ive read suggest that the cams need to be rotated slightly? Which im unsure how to do properly as i don't wanna fuck up the timing.

 

[BOOSTEDSUPRA]

not that difficult at all. of course the 3000 pipe and coils and such gotta be removed, removed valve covers, and there they are. moving the cams arent a worry at all, put a ratchet on the crank pully and move cams accordingly.

jdub, i know you didnt tell me 95 lbs, that was my doing. i did so because i have ran the car with the studs im proporly torqed for so long, i was concerned about the metal hg being a little outta wack., although unlikley, just wanted to be sure. knowing already there would be no worries with 95 lbs, i called arp anyways since i am still learning the quircks of the 7m, arp said although they dont recomend 95pnds, there should be no problems of the head studs holding. if it fuks up, i will post right away, :icon_razz.

so far ive got 7k on it, dyno at 410hp, and no more heat or water probs :biglaugh:

 

[jdub]

Once you've done it, it's done...the key words are that ARP does not recommend or endorse over torquing their hardware. Always keep something in mind: "should" is right between "F" and "U" in the alphabet... particularly true for a 7M

 

[BOOSTEDSUPRA]

Once you've done it, it's done...the key words are that ARP does not recommend or endorse over torquing their hardware. Always keep something in mind: "should" is right between "F" and "U" in the alphabet... particularly true for a 7M

lmao, ive said alot of interesting things while restoring this car. :icon_razz