Stinger Basics for a 2JZGE

[Altezza576]

So I am about to install from scratch this Stinger on my 2JZGE swap. I would like a few tips from those whom have had first hand experience with the stinger wire up as all I have to assist me is page 11 of the PDF .

I have already set the motor to TDC verified that the cams and crank marks are all lined up correctly.
I have removed the JZ distributor and replaced it with the 7M CPS.

At TDC I lined up the marks on the CPS abd slid it into the head so when it seated it rotated down and the trigger wheel is now lined up with the CPS internal trigger points.

I have also Identified the CPS plug to be #1-Green (NE), #2-Red (G1), #3-Yellow (G2), #4-Brown (G). From my research on SM, G1 is #1@TDC, G2, #6@TDC, NE tooth counter, G is ground.

I am looking on the Stinger diagram and included harness... and there are 4 wires, red, blue, green, yellow in a shielded cable. I am not quite sure how they match up. Blue is ground (G), Green is trigger (NE?), Yellow is synch, Red is not used as the OEM 2J sensor is magnetic not 8v hall?

Am I correct so far?

The TPS I can figure out as only 3 of the 4 wires are used from a Toyota sensor. (5v, signal, Gnd)

For the Injectors:
I am using oem High Impedance 2JZGE injectors for now. Do you just use the two primary Injector wires (yellow and white) and wire in three injectors per channel in parallel? Any particular order needed? I assume the Stinger controls ground and the other end of the injectors all collect and go to a (+) on relay.

Any tips you can suggest will help me a great deal, and will be appreciated.

 

[Altezza576]

Just waiting on my GM-IAT delivery to finish wiring last sensor.

I have wired up so far...
CPS, Temp Sensor, Injectors 1&6, 2&5, 3&4 (using Primary Inj wires pinouts #23, #11, and sec/prim Inj #12), IS300 Igniter, IS300 coil packs.

I have grounded the EMS, and connected both the red + wire and yellow/blk wire together and connected that to a 12v switched input off the Fuse Box.
I will wire in the Bosch Relay tomorrow to join the injectors and igniter to the 12v power source. as per page11 of manual.

For the fuel pump, I am assuming I have to use another Bosch relay similar to the one used for ignition and connect that to the green fuel pump wire under the dash in the square yellow B1 plug?

 

[Altezza576]

I found the oem fuel pump wire. (Black/Red #2 wire going to Fuel Pump Relay on right side shock tower) I will wire in that wire into the relay according to p16 of the stinger manual, then assign it an Aux Output control. (It's also in the G1 harness center pin #7 in the drivers kick panel depending on where you want to locate your relays.
I pretty much have everything else wired in and the Stinger is online with my laptop. I changes the ohms to 10-16 as I have the High Impedance 2JZ-GE motor.

 

[Altezza576]

OK I have my Fuel Pump wired up and working correctly off a relay and the Stinger Aux output#1. I have wired in and secured the IS300 coilpacks and IS300 igniter. I cant even get a sputter right now. Car just cranks. I need to validate my basemap settings.

 

[suprahero]

Are you getting fuel to it? EFI fuse isn't blown? Good luck.

 

[Altezza576]

Im almost certain the EFI is good. I know the fuel pump turns on... I will validate that EFI tomorrow. Im not too familiar with the CPS, how would I validate that is setup correctly and its sending a signal? I also have to validate if my coilpacks are wired in the proper sequence. I was under the impression the 2JZ was a 1-5-3-6-2-4 firing order. I am reading on here people are referencing a 1-6-3-4-2-5 order?

 

[IBoughtASupra]

1-5 is correct, the 1-6 is the engine firing order. The engine firing order and coilpack firing order are different.

---------- Post added at 10:40 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:38 PM ----------

It is not too late now. I have called Aaron at 9PM PST, 12PM EST, and he picked up. Call him and see, if not wait until tomorrow and give him a call. I am sure he will help you.

 

[Altezza576]

OK so it seems that I can not get a Crank signal to the Stinger now...... I am trying to source a second CPS to test with.

 

[IBoughtASupra]

I doubt it is your CPS. The wiring is alway an issue. There are four wire, try changing the tan and brown wires around with the stinger wires and see if you get a signal. It is a common error when people wire them in even on a stock ECU when the plugs go bad.

The tan and brown wires are on the CPS side, they change colors when using the CPS plug pigtail that you have pictured above.

 

[Altezza576]

Good News... My IS300 coil packs and DH61 igniter wiring were dead on. So was my CPS wiring. Bad news... I wired the power for the Stinger to a 12v switched source from the driver fuse panel that was turned off during cranking I have since rewired that Stinger power source to the Dash harness B1 plug's thick blk/orange 12v switched wire that is now 12v switched constant from under the glove box. Car fired right up and ran smooth..... no misfires no sputtering.... all is good in 2JZ-land. Smoked out all the mosquitoes from garage with no exhaust!

Time to clean the garage and start the tuning.

 

[IBoughtASupra]

Good job man. No pictures of the engine bay? You are going to street tune?

 

[Altezza576]

I pretty much cleaned up most of the bay. just the drivers shock tower has to be addressed tomorrow. I have the car starting and running out the downpipe. I do not see any obvious boost leaks but the car is idling at 1900rpms. I have not touched the stock TPS just yet.

 

[Altezza576]

I have the car now idling at whatever I choose. I have confirmed that the TPS wiring is correct and is responsive in the Stinger Tuning panel. I have also removed the IdleAirControl Valve and plugged the input hole. I have also reset the idle too 940RPMs by resetting the Idle Set screw. I have enriched the cold start cells. and I get the car to fire up on the first crank now. I pretty much made a new map from scratch. it took me a while since I can only adjust one cell at a time. but it seems like a pretty good drivable tune.

Hopefully now I can take the car out on the road without it running lean every chance it gets.

 

[Altezza576]

I had a minor setback with the EMS harness. They mixed up the grey and grey/blk wires in the harness. so I incorrectly had my Igniter #3 connected to the Wideband O2 grey wire. I had to undo my entire harness loom to fix it as i shrinkwrapped it pretty tight. only then could I twist around the grey wires on the ecu to see the hidden incriminating black strip on the Pinout #1 wire facing inside the harness. Once I fixed that... I got all 4 cyl to fire and the engine sounds very smooth.

 

[Altezza576]

as anyone successfully integrated a Toyota IACV to the Stinger? If so can someone elaborate? My car needs more air on cold start. if I adjust the Throttle plate to allow for a decent cold start when the car warms up it idles waay too high (1400-1500) I would imagine that a small IACV valve, wired to ground with a Stinger Aux input could assist in this. Anyone?

Thanks!

 

[Altezza576]

No one has any suggestions to get a Stinger to control the IACV?

 

[IBoughtASupra]

I don't believe anyone is using it because it is a stepper motor and hard to run.

Maybe the higher end EMS can run it like the Moted or Vipec. Call Aaron, he will know.

 

[Altezza576]

I bought a simple air valve (Attached to the IACV input port on TB) that is triggered with 12v. I currently have this wires to the temp sensor signal. The valve is powered open between 5*F and 110*F once the coolant temp reaches 111*F, the power is cut and the valve closes allowing the car to idle on its own without additional air.

I still dont understand why on a standalone I need to have an IACV? it should just idle? hot or cold? Am I missing something? Im guessing the temp compensations or something else is off in the tuning.

 

[Altezza576]

Forget the air valve, I got the car tuned correctly and the motor is running perfect even past 15psi. I do have one issue where on cold start, it takes about 20-30sec of cranking to get the car to stumble and then start up. I can hear my fuel pump prime and the rail is pressurized on battery power up. Once the car is started the first time.... it always starts up within 2-3 seconds of cranking until the motor gets completely cold, then its a load on the battery to crank the motor to restart the next time its completely cold. I sent Aaron at DM my map to review, but if anyone has had this issue and corrected it please post. Your comments and experiences are welcomed.

I am running Stinger 4424 EMS, Walbro 255, Seimens 850cc injectors.

 

[IBoughtASupra]

You cold start map needs to be tuned, it is probably dumping too much fuel. I sent you a PM.