Spongy Pedal and weak e-brake after brake job?

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SoupedUpSupra

The guy.
Mar 31, 2005
104
0
0
38
Sonoma County, Norcal
I just finished doing the brakes on my 87 Turbo. I replaced the rotors with drilled brembo rotors, and the pads with axxis ultimate ceramic pads. When doing the brakes, I found that my right front caliper was frozen, so I got a replacement from the junkyard off of an 89 NA. After bleeding the system and going for a drive, the brake pedal felt much more spongy than before. Is this caused bythe caliper in any way? The car seems to brake good, but ABS engages much later than before (not sure if this is good or bad) and the e-brake is not as strong as before, I couldn't even lock the tires with the ebrake while driving (i could before)

Help!
 
S

souprat

New Member
Mar 30, 2005
649
0
0
37
fairfax VA
bleed bleed and bleed some more. also check for leaks, master cylinder, calipers, lines ect. and be shure your using the right fluid. dont really know about the the e-brake. did the e-brake pads look ok? if they were you can try adjusting them with via the starwheel, turn it till it's nice and tight. this should'nt be that hard of a problem to solve, brakes are just a hydraulic system and relativly simple. just have a look at everything.
 
G

GOT BOOST

New Member
Mar 30, 2005
69
0
0
Canada
www.supraclub.ca
SoupedUpSupra said:
I just finished doing the brakes on my 87 Turbo. I replaced the rotors with drilled brembo rotors, and the pads with axxis ultimate ceramic pads. When doing the brakes, I found that my right front caliper was frozen, so I got a replacement from the junkyard off of an 89 NA. After bleeding the system and going for a drive, the brake pedal felt much more spongy than before. Is this caused bythe caliper in any way? The car seems to brake good, but ABS engages much later than before (not sure if this is good or bad) and the e-brake is not as strong as before, I couldn't even lock the tires with the ebrake while driving (i could before)

Help!
Click to expand...


You need to bleed more. In what order did you bleed the brakes? Ie which wheel? The order helps to complete a successfull bleed. Also are your lines ripped, tight connections nothing is loose? Any leaks? Did you do it your self or did you have someone help you? I find 3 people to bleed brakes is a good number. 1 to push the pedal, 1 to fill the fluid, 1 to watch and keep an eye out for bubbles in the fluid stream.

As for the ebrake, that is easy to adjust in the car. you need to remove one locking bolt down by the ebrake handle and then turn the other bolt untill you have your desired level of tightness.

Mike Nikolai
 
S

SoupedUpSupra

The guy.
Mar 31, 2005
104
0
0
38
Sonoma County, Norcal
I bled starting with the farthest wheel from the brake booster, and worked to closest, (rear right, rear left, front right, front left) I bled them a second time, and it still didn't seem to be braking well, but I went driving and they seemed to get a better and better. The e-brake now will lock the tires, and I can engage ABS at half pedal if I jam on it. Also, I have SS braided lines. Oh yeah, I have speed bleeders as well.

My new question is do my ebay drilled brembo rotors need to be turned before they are installed?
 
R

Ramkand

RMX TL
Apr 1, 2005
7
0
0
Mill Creek WA
I just put new Goodridge lines and Rotoras(cross & slotted :yumyum:) on my 87.
Bled and bled and bled,...bled and bled and bled some more,....:wtf:bled and bled and bled some more,....

My brothers girlfriend looks under the hood while we are bleeding and says "Your master cylinder has bubbles."

So I take it for a spin, spongy, pedal further down than it should be,..not good.

Take the car back home and bleed some more,...the fluid stream has become a trickle.

New master on its way.

Good luck, DZ.
 
TONY!

TONY!

Habitual Supra Killer
Mar 30, 2005
523
5
18
Tonyland
As far as the e-brake goes, it does NOT adust itself. It is too small of a system to have all the features regular drums have because of its confined space being that it is within the the center of the disc system. You need to jack the back of the car, tighten the e-brake pads by its star tightening thing there until it freezes the wheel, then count 8 increments out from when it freezes. I uses a screw driver to tighten the star adjuster (you don't need the special tool mentioned). It is also described in BR-45 (brakes page 45) of the TSRM.

After that, adjust the e-brake cable from within the cabin that connects to the brake lever. see BR-8 TSRM on that one.

My calipers were frozen too. Mine were frozen because of rust between the pins & their cylinders.
I just took them apart
taped then wrapped coarse sandpaper around a house door pin (the one within the hinges)
attached the the sandpaper wrapped pin to a drill
sanded all that rust crap out of there with the drill & the attachment I made
sanded the pins some although they were pretty smooth & IIRC, they are made of brass
installed everything with new boots that cover the pins & hold in the brake grease

I did all that when I changed my struts.
 
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