Speedo Cable

SupraDerk

The Backseat Flyer
Sep 17, 2005
546
0
0
39
Tallahassee
Mine didn't work either. So I found someone parting out a supra and bought both the lower and upper arm off of them. Except that still didn't fix the problem. The speedo drive gear was bad. So if you pull off your speedo cables and find that they still spin fine, or you find that it still doesn't work when you change the speedo cable, now you know what the problem is.
 

Satan

Supramania Contributor
Mar 31, 2005
1,594
0
36
Tampa
I had the same issue and can tell you to use the "mechanic's rule for troubleshooting."

Go with the cheapest part first...

The nylon gear cost me about $25 a few years back... however, I spent the money and went thru the trouble (PITA) of changing the upper cable, then the lower cable, etc, etc... The gear takes about 5 minutes to change and is also easy to check.

Pull it off and look and see if any of the teeth are wore out on the gear. Be ready to plug the hole w/a small clean rag/towel, so that you don't lose all your tranny fluid, while you check.
 
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lifesnotfair

New Member
Dec 26, 2005
356
0
0
Dominican Republic
Yeah, the cable is not lubricating right. Some guy wrote an article, he said he put some oil on it (like, letting it get oil from somewhere on a higher level, overnight0, and then it worked. I don't know for how long that fix would work.
 

Satan

Supramania Contributor
Mar 31, 2005
1,594
0
36
Tampa
As far as oiling the cable.... easiest to just disconnect at the tranny, bring up thru the engine bay and hang it to the hood somehow. Before you do hang it, place some oil in a small baggie and put the end of the cable in it. You are not going to need much oil, but basically "rubber-band" the baggie around the cable... You'll have a little bag of oil, which when turned upside down (when you hang the cable), will allow the oil to flow downwards into the cable.

Don't use too much, 'caue you may pour it clear thru the other side, at the gage cluster. I would go as far as to remove the cluster and put a few towels on that end.

You can try from the cluster side too, but for me it got too messy and I was unable to really put the cable at an angle where I knew the the oil would flow thru. The cable does not need to be filled with oil. It will hopefully just work it's way thru, while the wire rotates inside.
 

lifesnotfair

New Member
Dec 26, 2005
356
0
0
Dominican Republic
I took my speedo out weeks ago, and can't seem to find one to buy. Funny thing is, now I don't know which end which, lol. What kind of oil does one need??? Engine oil? :p ... or wd40 or what?
 

88targarose

Got Boredom?
Apr 7, 2005
44
0
6
Albuq, NM
www.turboninjas.com
http://www.supras.com/06/techcenter/display.php?QID=28
Article:
Authored by: Julius

Tools Required: Small plastic bag, Rubber band, Oil (10W30 or oil with teflon will probably do better)

Skills Required: Moderate Skills

My speedometer started making noise and the speedo needle jitters between 15-60 MPH. I suspected that problem is due to dried out/lack of lubrication between the speedo cable sleeve and the internal drive cable. Since removing it entirely is a lot of work, I thought of an idea and tried the following idea first and see how long this last.

1. From the passenger side just under mid point of the door, the speedometer cable is coupled to a shorter cable that attaches to the tranny. Uncouple this connection, and unclip the speedo cable leading to the engine compartment. There are 2 clips that you need to slide off. One is just near the coupler, the second one along the wheel well.

2. From the top, pull the free end up so that it is above the relative height of speedometer.

3. The speedo drive cable has a square end about 1/4 to 1/2 inch long, and is terminated by a white plastic piece with a rubber ring around it. You can pull this slightly and notice that there is some room for oil to flow into the sleeve. The problem is how? Here's what I did:

4. Cut off one corner of your small pastic bacg and slide this onto the end of the speedo cable. Then tie a runbber band around this cut end so that the coupler is inside the bag.

5. With the coupler in it, and the drive cable slightly pulled away from the sleeve (I removed the rubber ring temporarily and save it), pour about 1 oz of oil (I used 10W30) into the bag, closed it, and hang the end of the closed bag with a piece of wire/string to the hood. The goal here is to let gravity do the work and allow the oil to seep the length of inside of the sleeve over several hours (I did it overnite).

6. The next day, I put everything back together (don't forget that litle rubber ring that you took out. It goes between the sleeve and the white plastic end of the drive cable!).

7. Test drove it, and my problem went away! The noise is gone, and the jitter is also gone. We'll see how long this fix will last.