some head gasket repair questions...

[Cyrus]

these arent tooo technical, but i feel like this is still the right place to ask... thanks in advance for any insight you guys can offer.

1) getting ready to put stuff back together. this is what i've put on my "to buy" list. this is a straight up "oem" rebuild, so nothing too fancy. i am trying to accomplish this as cheaply as possible.

7M Thermostat $15.95
7M Timing Belt $34.00
Water Pump $55.00
7M Timing Belt Idler Pulley $38.00
Silicone hose kit $280
Arp head bolts $100

the only other major thing i plan to purchase that i havent listed yet are gaskets. i've had my eye on a felpro gasket kit from suprasport for $290. Id rather go OEM from Toyota, but I don't want to buy each gasket individually. I already know I've removed (and will require new) the headgasket; gasket between upper/lower intake; gasket between intake and head; gasket between exhaust mani and head; gasket between turbo and exhaust mani; egr cooler gasket; CPS gasket; water outlet gasket; valve cover gaskets. i'm sure there are more, but those are the ones i KNOW i'll need. pretty sure they will already add up to around the cost of the felpro gasket kit if i purchase them individually from a dealership.

other small things i plan to buy are all new studs and nuts for the hot side (head -> manifold, turbo -> elbow).

so i guess my questions are:
#1: what is the best way to go about procuring the gaskets i'll need.

#2: is there anything else that i absolutely should replace while I have the top-end disassembled?

#3: how can i tell the difference between an oil passage and a coolant passage in the block? i ask because it seems that it is more important to keep the oil passages clean and free of debris. my coolant system is dirty as it is and i plan to flush it thoroughly once the shortblock is reassembled. the oil passages arent so easily cleaned out, and though i plan to change the oil immediately after i get the car running again, id rather keep that system as clean as possible (not to say im gonna cram shit into the coolant passages. more just that i am going to take extra precautions to keep the oil passages clean.)

#4: what is the correct tap size to use for chasing the threads in the block? and for chasing the threads in the head for the exhaust manifold studs?

that's it for now, though i'm sure there'll be more soon.

thanks for the help!


p.s. here is my rebuild thread... http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?158569-The-Rebuild!-(90T)

 

[Jay C]

Cyrus from what i have read if you are staying at or near stock power levels the Felpro kit should be fine. However, most people recomend that you discard the egr cooler gasket and get one direct from toyota. Also, if the kit comes with an oil pan gasket don't use it and instead use FIPG.

 

[CyFi6]

Check out the Ishino / Stone gasket sets. They are very good quality and affordable.
You can get the head set for about $170
http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts...+Toyota+Head+Gasket+Set+1988+1989&fp=pp&gbm=a

Or the full engine set for about $200
http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts...oyota+Engine+Gasket+Set+1989+1990&fp=pp&gbm=a

The 3 big circular holes in the block (2 on the intake side, one on the rear exhaust side) are oil drain holes. The really small hole in the front middle of the block is an oil feed hole. Also, the gap between the cast iron block and the aluminum front cover is an oil drain passage. Everything else is either a headbolt hole or coolant passage.

Headbolt threads are 12mmx1.25 thread, make sure you use a bottoming tap.

 

[Maple191]

Toyota sells engine seal kits. Although there are some seals that dont come with it because they dont necessiarily need to be removed
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/EPC/291420/catalog.aspx?F=1103&P=2

 

[Cyrus]

doh. that woulda worked nicely. unfortunately, i already bought an ebay gasket kit and an a la carte oem headgasket. worked out to $150 which is as much as the first gasket kit (part #04111). well, if i ever have to do another rebuild, it'll be good to know about this toyota kit. thanks maple!


and thanks for the info CyFi. do i need the bottoming tap if im using bolts and not studs?

 

[SPOOLINLUST]

Get a bunch of brake cleaner as well and jegs sells a wire brush kit that is just for cleaning oil and coolant passages. Also if you have access to a compressor to blow everything out VERY VERY well is a good thing to.

 

[Cyrus]

i do have a compressor... if i blow into the coolant/oil passages, wont that just lodge the crap deeper into the block or push it down into the oil pan?

 

[supraguy@aol]

I doubt that your oil passages will be gunked up much at all. I wouldn't bother blowing stuff in various directions; Instead I would do a coolant flush and oil changed once its reassembled.

 

[SPOOLINLUST]

The cleaner loosens it the brushes push it all the way threw. You are rebuilding it right? If so the oil pan should be off of it. Any way just a thought do what you like. Just pulling a motor apart sends gasket and external build up debris into the passages. Or you can have it pro. cleaned and be done with it like 80 bucks or so at local machine shop.

 

[Skeezix]

Yeah man if you have it out already and that far apart why haven't you taken the oil pan off to check it out down there? At least to re-seal it for sure. Might as well replace every gasket possible while it's out of the car...

 

[Cyrus]

ive only removed the head. the block is still in the car, and i have no intention of removing it for this project. would have been nice to tear down the bottom end and rebuild it properly, but it wasnt in the cards financially.

i havent scraped the deck or done any prep to the block yet, so i think the coolant and oil passages are relatively clean (as clean as they were before i pulled the head, at any rate). i'm just gonna fill them/cover them and go about prepping the deck. then once i get the head on, ill do a coolant flush and change the oil, as supraguy suggested.

 

[ATL88Supra]

stop what you are doing till you have the money to get it fixed right. borrow your moms car.

 

[Skeezix]

Wouldn't go that far ^ I'm sure your mom still needs to go places...anyway the way you are going about it seems fine, more like a head gasket replacement for insurance not a rebuild. And you're gonna put fresh oil in and then change it after 500-1000 miles or whatever?

 

[Cyrus]

haha ok ill just leave the block open and let the cylinders and pistons get nice and rusty while all the top-end components lurk on my garage floor. in the mean time, ill start collecting cans and putting quarters away so i can "fix it right".

sarcasm and snark aside, im reasonably sure what im doing is fixing it "right". i had a mechanic repair a blown head gasket on an acura legend, and he managed to do it without removing the engine block. the car ran great for the 60,000+ miles that i owned it afterward, and im sure it continued to run great after i sold it.

so yea, ill keep going with what ive been doing. thanks to constructive/informative comments from my fellow forumers, i think/hope i've got things well in hand.

p.s. i have a daily driver, this is my weekend car. mom can keep her ride.

 

[Cyrus]

skeez, i am gonna put fresh oil and fresh coolant/water (30/70) in for the first start up, and then after i run the engine for a bit and get it up to normal operating temps, im gonna change the oil and coolant/water (50/50 + water wetter).

 

[Cyrus]

can anyone tell me what this gasket is for?




edit: searched and came up with this thread: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?99106-Weird-exhaust-gasket.&highlight=eristic

supposedly it is for the turbo elbow -> downpipe connection. i have a sheet of high temp gasket material, ill probably cut a gasket out of that rather than using this one. it just seems weird, not to mention hard to install.

 

[Cyrus]

got my eristic gasket set in the mail today... gotta be honest, i am a little disheartened and am feeling very nervous about using any of these gaskets on my car. the paper gaskets look so cheap and flimsy and shitty. makes me wonder about the quality of the rubber gaskets as well.

i am starting to think that maybe this was $40 burnt, and that i'll just bite the bullet and get the gaskets i need straight from the toyota dealership. these gaskets dont look to be anywhere near the quality/properties of the gaskets i pulled off the car when i was taking it apart. am i being paranoid?

i am already getting the EGR cooler gasket, the head gasket, throttle body, and an exhaust manifold gasket from toyota... what else should i get from them and avoid from the eristic kit?

 

[SPOOLINLUST]

You threw me off when you said rebuild. Well I used a chepo ebay kit on my top end, less the HG went cometic MLS for that, but just use your finger to spread a very light coating of gray or black RTV on both sides and follow the instructions on the tube. Mine haven't leaked yet! It was either Kubuki or Eristic have used both on various builds and repairs one being a boosted integra. Just Use good HG's main seals and oil pan gaskets and you will be fine.

 

[Cyrus]

thanks for the reply, spoolinlust. that is the same thing another forumer told me (RTV to supplement sealing properties of the gasket). is The Right Stuff an RTV product? what about FIPG?



and i changed the topic title to be more accurate.

 

[Maple191]

can anyone tell me what this gasket is for?

View attachment 57656


edit: searched and came up with this thread: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?99106-Weird-exhaust-gasket.&highlight=eristic

supposedly it is for the turbo elbow -> downpipe connection. i have a sheet of high temp gasket material, ill probably cut a gasket out of that rather than using this one. it just seems weird, not to mention hard to install.

Yes thats the Turbo elbow to down pipe gasket. Next time the car is in the air have someone change it out for you its not that hard... only if you exhaust flanges and bolts are extreamly rusted, then just spary a shit tone of penetraiting oil. I just replaced mine when i took out my tranny at work to do the rear main seal. Althought mine was a little harder as my exhaust is one piece from the downpipe back.