Some engine Break in questions

[90T04]

I am finally ready to start up my rebuilt engine and I just want to run some questions by you guys that I am not 100% on.

I have read the "Proper engine break in oil" sticky in the lubricants section, and I am planning on using the break it in hard method described here:

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

This method has you loading the engine by opening the throttle hard in several gears up to 4000rpm. But with my current turbo (T04B) and wastegate, I will be seeing approx 10lbs of boost minimum when making those passes. I have read that you should stay out of boost when braking in the engine. Do I let off the throttle before I get to that point, even if it is below the optimal RPM?

Another question I have is about breaking in a new clutch at the same time. Am I allowed to apply lots of power to it making these passes out on the first 20 miles?

And lastly, what about engines that have not been properly tuned on aftermarket electronics or standalones? If the engine is not tuned right already, I assume its not good to be washing down cylinder walls and such while breaking in the engine. Or to be idling the car forever while you try to mess with the settings. What have you guys done in these cases? (It is not possible for me to revert the engine back to stock for the break in.)

Thanks in advance for your advise!
Ryan

 

[nick88]

Do a mild engine break in. Stay out of boost and drive like an old grandma. You will burn the clutch up and ruin the cylinder walls.

 

[90T04]

Do a mild engine break in. Stay out of boost and drive like an old grandma. You will burn the clutch up and ruin the cylinder walls.

Driving it like an old grandma would be the opposite of this procedure: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Have you read it?

 

[Mk3Les]

I am finally ready to start up my rebuilt engine and I just want to run some questions by you guys that I am not 100% on.

I have read the "Proper engine break in oil" sticky in the lubricants section, and I am planning on using the break it in hard method described here:

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

This method has you loading the engine by opening the throttle hard in several gears up to 4000rpm. But with my current turbo (T04B) and wastegate, I will be seeing approx 10lbs of boost minimum when making those passes. I have read that you should stay out of boost when braking in the engine. Do I let off the throttle before I get to that point, even if it is below the optimal RPM?

Another question I have is about breaking in a new clutch at the same time. Am I allowed to apply lots of power to it making these passes out on the first 20 miles?

And lastly, what about engines that have not been properly tuned on aftermarket electronics or standalones? If the engine is not tuned right already, I assume its not good to be washing down cylinder walls and such while breaking in the engine. Or to be idling the car forever while you try to mess with the settings. What have you guys done in these cases? (It is not possible for me to revert the engine back to stock for the break in.)

Thanks in advance for your advise!
Ryan

Just my 2cents worth, if it was me I'd be getting the car as ready as I could to start up then have it towed to your local dyno and have them run it in on the dyno for you. That way it's safe and you get your car tuned as well.

All the best
Les

 

[gaboonviper85]

Do a mild engine break in. Stay out of boost and drive like an old grandma. You will burn the clutch up and ruin the cylinder walls.

Says the guy with two bhg's and gave up and sold the supra...

You absolutly do not want to baby the car...get those rings too seat good and hard asap! Stay away from constant throttle (you want to vary engine rpms constantly)...do high vacume pulls (highway speed then downshift and keep rpms high while letting the motor slow you down)...etc

 

[gaboonviper85]

Doing pulls with a new clutch isn't a problem...drag racing on a new clutch is a problem...don't slam gears and you'll be fine!

 

[88-7MGTE]

Says the guy with two bhg's and gave up and sold the supra...

You absolutly do not want to baby the car...get those rings too seat good and hard asap! Stay away from constant throttle (you want to vary engine rpms constantly)...do high vacume pulls (highway speed then downshift and keep rpms high while letting the motor slow you down)...etc

Why not baby the car, all of mine mechanics say to baby the car ? I do not go on to boost at all.

I would like to see more people with experiance to say about this.

 

[Boostedmkiii]

The great break in debate. People say baby it, people say push it.

Do as much research as you can and make your decision, because you will get mixed views on here.

 

[Jayhall]

This is what i was told by my machine shop. I also had a brand new clutch.

-Use REGULAR 10-30 or 5-30 oil on start up. not synthetic

-Dont let it idle for any extended amount of time. Burping the cooling system is almost to much. All you have to do is vary the RPM.

-First things first when driving. In first gear, bring the RPM to 2000, 2nd gear 2500, and so on going up about 500 RPM each gear. After youve reached 5th, slow it down and take 1st gear to 2500, 2nd gear to 3000 ect, still going up 500RPM every gear. Then again, 1st gear to 3000, 2nd to 3500 ect. I think you get the idea. With out boost is prefered but as I was told, if your making low amounts of boost, thats just the nature of the game.

-Now its ready for some actual driving. Still, no extended idle periods. Keep the RPM varried, change gears even if you dont feel you need too. Just dont keep the RPM's in one spot. Get on the highway, or a nice open stretch and do the same thing as before with the 1st gear 3000 RPM, 2nd Gear 3500 ect. In the higher gears you should be doing this at full throttle. Im sure it wont hurt the lower gears, but it just didnt feel right for me. The higher gears wont climb through the RPMs as quickly as the lower ones. First and second i gave about 75% throttle.

Once I did these steps a few times, I took it upon myself to break the car in as I felt nessecary. I know this might sound crazy but, I did not want to baby it, nor did I want to break it in hard. Seeing how its my car and I have no plans of selling it, I did what seemed reasonable. I drove it in the manner I usually drive in. Not boosting from stop light to stop light, or shifting at 2500 RPM every gear. Giving in some boost for a short pull here and there, not ragging on it, not babying it. So far I have not had any problems and the machine shop guy says as far as he can tell it has been broken in properly. And Ive definaltly got good vaccume (-27 most the time)

On last thing I should add is that after 1000kms (621.371 miles) the oil should be dropped, and replaced with REGULAR 5 or 10-30. After that you are good to drive how ever you please. In another 1000km (621.371 miles) drop that oil and put in some synthetic. Vroooom psh vrooooom your off to the races my friend.

EDIT: I just checked out the thread in the oil section you speak of, and what I said here in the last paragraph was pretty much just a repeat. But hey, now theres info in the two threads

 

[90T04]

Cool thanks for the insight, I know I am just being too cautious. I had even considered pressurizing the wastegate with a small air tank and driving around like that so I could really hammer the throttle down, and not worry about it boosting too much. :aigo:

 

[jdub]

Why not baby the car, all of mine mechanics say to baby the car ? I do not go on to boost at all.

I would like to see more people with experiance to say about this.

Because the steel Toyota uses in their blocks is very hard. Depending on the rings one uses can cause an "extended" break-in period or it may never break-in at all. This will cause blow by and the motor will use more oil than normal.

The hard brake-in depends on engine vacuum during the decel as much or more to achieve the desired result. When you make the runs to ~4000 RPM, you should allow the car to coast, down shifting through the gears to keep RPM up around 2000-2500. Make 4-5 runs. After that, make sure you vary RPM as much as possible and stay out of high boost till the 1000 mile point.

Here's the thread mentioned above:
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48993

A straight 30W is what I would use for the break-in for the reasons in that thread. You can go with a 30W multigrade after 500 miles or so, but don't use synthetic till the 1500 mile point. There is no reason to use an expensive oil during the break-in...it's not going to be in the motor long enough to affect anything. WalMart SuperTech oil and filters are fine to use. When you switch to synthetic, go with a Wix (NAPA Gold) filter.

 

[TurboStreetCar]

Break in the engine by driving it the way you intend to use it, While following JDub's advice on oil selection. </debate>

 

[Altezza576]

^^^ I drove my rebuild as i would drive it normally. No issues at all.

 

[jdub]

^^^ I drove my rebuild as i would drive it normally. No issues at all.

And, (depending on the rings) a lot of people have had issues. It's like fitting a Cometic MHG on a block that has not been decked...do you feel lucky, well do you.....? Not good enough odds for me.

The hard break-in works 100&#37; of the time.

 

[figgie]

Hard break in.

Come on folks, you think all those shiney brand new engines on those 2010 models cars are NOT broken in by the time you take delivery????

If you think they are not, then riddle me this. Why do every car that is 30k and above comes with synth from the factory? I know for a fact cadillac, Acura, Lexus come with synth in the crankcase. Those motors are already broken in long before you take delivery.

 

[Scruggs86.5T]

So now we know how to break in the engine, what about the engine just built, with a new clutch? I've always been told to baby the clutch to let it burn in properly. Is this correct?

If so that means that we need to baby the clutch and then let the engine rev up to the appropriate RPMS. If I am wrong, please correct me. I am planning on getting my engine rebuilt and then put directly on a dyno to tune, all of this tuning is to be done with the new OS Gilken twin disc clutch with a GT35R as the new turbo, 1mm oversized ferrea valvetrain, 264 BC cams, maft pro, and 680cc injectors w/ all the mods to support it. Should I be downsizing to a ct26/stock turbo and run the engine as per what is discussed in this thread and just be careful of my clutch engagements, just run the engine with the 35R and just baby the clutch, or use the old clutch to break in the engine and then swap clutches after the engine break in is done?

Sorry to jack the thread but the topic really means a lot to me, I dont want to screw up my $1700 clutch or my rebuilt engine for that matter......

 

[gaboonviper85]

Be easy on the shifting and don't launch the car or do burnouts and your clutch will be fine! Clutch break in is simply asking you not too do shit that will cause the clutch too slip or get hot....breaking in a motor isn't drag racing so it will be fine!

No need too change the turbo...just remove your wastegate if possible....if not you'll still be fine as you can get up too speeds while only boosting 3-4 psi and it will be just fine.